[hklr]

Hello all,

Well, I got my chrome plated brass hose barbs and coupling bodies installed as instructed on the mvfaq.blogspot site (http://mvfaq.blogspot.com/2005/09/fuel-line-fittings.html) and it seemed as though everything was going as advertised. Unfortunately, the test run still left me leaking fuel on the supply side hose at the tank. The high pressure fuel is leaking past the barbed ends on the male fuel fitting. The inner core of the Dayco fuel hose is not sealing to the fitting. I lubricated the fitting barbs and inner hose with silicone spray and the inner core is pushed as far as it can go up the barbed male fitting, but it's still leaking.

So, now what?!? I can't back the hose barb off that stiff inner core. The only way I got the plastic one out was to shatter it with a hammer and tweeze out the pieces. I'm considering a hose clamp to maybe help seal it. Otherwise, I need a whole new fuel hose I guess.

Any suggestions? I've had my F4 for 10 days and got to ride a day and a half. I'm about to freak out!

Thanks.

 

[CAG]

It is very VERY difficult to get the metal hose barbs into the stock fuel lines. That inner core will not stretch over the barb, which it has to do, or the assembly will leak.

Your best bet is to go to the auto parts store, buy some fuel line and re assemble everything.

You don't need the plastic Guest connectors at the fuel rail. Just use hose clamps.

 

[yo_clarkie]

At this point, you could try the hose clamp. You may have put a small split in the inner tube with your hammer.

CAG's solution looks much better though.

 

[hklr]

OK. I really like those fuel rail fittings, but I can live without them. I'm off to the parts store.

 

[CAG]

You may be able to use the fuel rail fittings on the new hose. Give it a try.

Remember, you SQUEEZE the tabs to remove the fittings from the rail, don't pry them apart.

 

[hklr]

Just finished. Like you said, Carl, I was able to reuse the fuel rail couples. I'm back in business! When my wife wakes up tomorrow morning, she's gonna find an Andy-sized hole in the garage door... I've got 8 days of riding to catch up on!

Cheers!

 

[john]

Burn some rubber mate:f4:

 

[johnyrottin]

I just got back from Disney to find my hose barb fittings in the mailbox. Tonight...surgery time! Nurse, prep the OR...I am ready to go in!

 

[hklr]

johny, I hope you had better luck with getting the Dayco hose over the new fuel barbs... I'm batting .500. My return line sealed up nicely, but the supply side was leaking like mad.

This is off topic, but I don't feel like starting a new thread for this:

I'm wondering if Scooter the Puppy, or anyone else for that matter, can tell me where I can get a replacement for the knackered grommet that holds this trim piece onto the airbox.

 

[johnyrottin]

I haven't even gotten my tank off yet! I woke up in the am with a sky high temp and no voice hacking up huge greem wads of flem! Feeling better after two days but still have a sore throat.

How the hell do you get the tank off?

Follow these steps;

* Drain fuel from tank
* Remove tail section
* insert key and lift tail section
* remove wiring plug that connects to the tail light and turn signals
* remove rubber connector between seat pins at tail section hinge
* slightly lift up on tail section and push the hinge pins outward to remove
* when these pins are removed the hinge will snap downward
* remove tail section and place it out of the way
* Remove bolt on rear of tank inbetween the hinge arms. Uses a 5mm allen wrench
* Find a friend to help you pick up the tank once the bolt is removed
* The tank will need to wiggle backward and up to remove it from the airbox
* Once it's loose, have your friend lift the tank up while you disconnect the fuel lines under the tank (Make not of which fuel line is the in and which is the out for ease in re-installation.
* Disconnect the fuel pump harness (it will be the only wiring connector under the tank)
* Disconnect the fuel lines
* Push in on the flat side of the connector where the plastic fuel line goes into the fuel tank. (it will be shiny)
* You will have to wiggle these plastic fittings to get them to come out (TRY NOT TO BREAK THEM)
* Remove both connectors and the tank will be disconnected completely.

 

[johnyrottin]

Got the tank off and sure enough...one of the plastic fitings had a small crack approx half the way around it. Everything came apart fairly easily. The plastic fittings were a bit of a pain to get out of the tank but apart from that fairly straight forward. 19mm wrench was also a bit difficult to maneuver around getting the new ones in but patience paid off there as well.

Only one problem encountered, the hose clamps are a bit strange. A little difficult to get these reclamped so I am thinking it may be better to go get a couple 1/2" or 3/4" stainless hose clamps that screw tighter.

Highly reccomend doing this prior to a problem instead of waiting. Guaruntee they will be a problem at some point. Might as well have the fittings waiting in your toolbox rather than waiting for the company to ship them to you.

 

[lee]

You can get another "well nut" at your local hardware store. Or try "Mcmaster Carr" on the web. Bit of a pain to replace it.

 

[johnyrottin]

Just to be sure, is the in-side of the fuel rail the left hand side as you would be sitting on the bike, and the right side be the out-side? Fast by Ferracci told me that this does not matter as it is justa a closed loop system. A dealer i called said left is in, right is out. Anyone have a definitive answer?

Anyway, bike is sorted, up and running, clean and waxed and ready for the street. Now I need an excuse for the wife to let me go ride before I deploy!!!!

 

[CAG]

Ferracci is correct. It doesn't matter.