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Discussion Starter #1
G'day All,
I dodged a bullet today. Riding down the freeway and glanced in the mirror to see huge plumes of blue smoke behind the bike. Shits were trumps as I feared a lunched engine. Another glance I noticed that the smoke wasn't coming from the exhausts but much lower down, oil on the engine pipes. No ominous sounds from the engine and no oil light on the instruments but instantly hit the kill button and coasted over to the side of the freeway. Noticing my left boot was sliding on the foot peg I dismounted to be greeted by a horrendous sight. Every thing rear of the side fairings was dripping in oil and a trail of oil leading back up the freeway. The rear tire totally soused in it. A pool of oil the size of two dinner plates was rapidly forming from oil running out of the belly pan. I stood there for awhile then out of curiosity dropped the left side of the belly pan. Not much to see where it was coming from as every thing was covered in it but maybe from the oil water heat exchanger. Phone for rescue and get the bike 50 miles home then go to the mates place for a beer. My son rings about an hour later to say that he has the fairings off and briefly started the engine to see oil squirting from the front end of the oil filter. This morning I removed the oil filter and I can see around the edge of the little preformed hex flange spot welded to the top, there is a crack through the metal body of the filter canister. Took the filter across to the local bike shop, I know the owner well and purchased the filter from him about 2000 miles ago. He looked at it disbelief saying that it is probably the most common filter that he sells and fits and he has never in all his time seen any filter do that.
So, lucky that it did not happen on a twisty road and lucky that I caught it before a catastrophic engine failure.
 

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Wow. Stroke of fortune for you and your bike.

Also a stroke of relief knowing that it'll cost bugger all to fix.

So what's the 'clean-up' schedule? Two days, or three?:|
 

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Lucky miss mate. I'd heard of that fault before (K&N filter hex?) and knocked one back when my local shop tried to sell me one with a hex (not K&N). Glad you and the bike survived unscathed.

Cheers

Deano
 

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Wasn't it the K&N filters that did this ?

What type did you have ?

Also remember to fit the lock ring so they don't come loose ..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes it was a K&N. So this has happened before? I'm a mechanic and have fitted spin on filters to many many cars and bikes but never seen or heard of it before.
Yes, the lock ring was attached.
 

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Yes they recalled them I believe....do a google search
Get a filter from Noel the Knurl on here...he can get Puroltor.
 

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@ogrilp400: There are several threads within this forum that identify the K&N as a failure prone filter with poor filtering properties.

Hereis one excelent thread on filters: http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/12-f4-1st-gen-1998-2009/28666-k-n-standard-oil-filter-type-4.html

Purolator is the way to go. Paint it black if you need to.

Here is one warning thread form last year: http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/153-g...-issues/219522-stay-away-k-n-oil-filters.html

You are a very lucky man and I am glad you are a very self aware rider. One exit ramp and this could have been very different.
 

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Wow.... glad you dodged that bullet.

Just so you know, MotoAmerica banned the K&N oil filter in their race series for just this reason. Evidently K&N has addressed the problem and MotoAmerica rescinded the ban for this season, but filter used must be from advanced batch numbers.

Personally, I won't use them...even in my cars.
 
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Another one? This really should be in Donsy's FAQ and at the top of every Maintenance forum.
 

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Always fortunate to have a quick and easy fix.

Do you know if it was tightened using the nut when it was first installed? I wonder if it's just poor design that there are stresses that build up in the spot welds or if tightening using the hex contributes. I've always understood that the nut is only for removal, but with a description like "17mm Hex Nut Allows Easy-On, Easy Wrench-Off" I can see it being misinterpreted too easily.
 

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Always fortunate to have a quick and easy fix.

Do you know if it was tightened using the nut when it was first installed? I wonder if it's just poor design that there are stresses that build up in the spot welds or if tightening using the hex contributes. I've always understood that the nut is only for removal, but with a description like "17mm Hex Nut Allows Easy-On, Easy Wrench-Off" I can see it being misinterpreted too easily.
Poor build quality. Materials and welding technique created a very weak spot that engine oil pressure can break.

Just a crappy oil filter anyway. Read the reviews on filtration properties in the independent testing. Buy something better.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Always fortunate to have a quick and easy fix.

Do you know if it was tightened using the nut when it was first installed? I wonder if it's just poor design that there are stresses that build up in the spot welds or if tightening using the hex contributes. I've always understood that the nut is only for removal, but with a description like "17mm Hex Nut Allows Easy-On, Easy Wrench-Off" I can see it being misinterpreted too easily.
Given the confined location for getting my hand around the filter to tighten it I'm guessing that I did use a socket on it to tighten it. Given that I know from experience that spin filters can be a bastard to remove to service I do not tighten them very much at all. Also as MVs' have a locking band there is no need to tighten them very tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys for all the information and now that it has all come out I do recall the threads against using them.
I will now be fitting an other brand of filter, a Purolator if I can find one here in Gippsland Victoria, Australia.
 

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Given the confined location for getting my hand around the filter to tighten it I'm guessing that I did use a socket on it to tighten it. Given that I know from experience that spin filters can be a bastard to remove to service I do not tighten them very much at all. Also as MVs' have a locking band there is no need to tighten them very tight.
Use a proprietary filter wrench or pliers to remove a filter.

Don clean sticky rubber gloves to get a grip on the installation of a new filter...or use said filter pliers with caution against crushing.

You need to tighten the filter to spec in order to prevent leakage at pressure.
 
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All that oil on that tire? Lucky man. I’m surprised you were fortunate enough to stay rubber side down.
 

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I suspect they had a few law suits.....
 
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