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Glenno, and other contributors, just to set the record straight, my 'holy shit, that's a bold move' comment was one of surprise - not of criticism. It is not something I would do so that is why I followed my comment with 'each to their own.' No malice intended at all.:smile2:
 

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Might be worth considering a kill switch is an emergency function and unfortunately it’s not necessarily the rider that needs it.
That said it’s pretty easy to tuck a micro SPDT weatherised switch to the left bar without drillling any holes or even being able to see it unless you know it’s there.
 

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Why are you adding a 2nd fan?????? and all the extra bullshit?

If you have a 1st Gen F4 with a 1.6M ECU just get a chip from Adam (merc07) and be done with it

No more EBS crap, relay or solenoid
Real fuel and ignition maps......no hole in the midrange
No more overheating.....the fans come on earlier:grin2:

Now if you have a later 1st Gen F4 with a 5SM ECU you cand send it out to have it reprogrammed
for the fans to come on earlier don't know if they've deleted the EBS crap

I have a MicroTec on my '08 Brutale, fans come on at 86C and it WILL NOT GO OVER 92C PERIOD
>:)
 

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1. Cant adjust fans via the ECU on the 750.

2. Didnt add another fan.

3. Have one of Adams chips. I think his chip helps, but not enough in summer here.

@Glenno: I thought the on-off temps for the fans were a big part of Merc's mod...
 

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The F4 750 doesnt run the fans from the ecu but direct from their own temperature sensor.

However, the ecu software for the fans is the same as the F4 1000 and the ecu fan output pin is still used. All you would have to do is wire the fans up the same as in the F4 1000 wiring diagram....probably

The main advantage of the modded 1000 eprom is getting rid of the deceleration fuel cut off....which then requires the ebs software delete. Then the fan temps, fueling, throttle responce....
 

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...and timing?
 

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The F4 750 doesnt run the fans from the ecu but direct from their own temperature sensor.

However, the ecu software for the fans is the same as the F4 1000 and the ecu fan output pin is still used. All you would have to do is wire the fans up the same as in the F4 1000 wiring diagram....probably

The main advantage of the modded 1000 eprom is getting rid of the deceleration fuel cut off....which then requires the ebs software delete. Then the fan temps, fueling, throttle responce....
One day I may just try that. Regardless a manual switch is good on a bike with such poor ventilation. I like to flick them on early when I'm coming up to a set of lights using natural air flow of 40-60kph assisted by the fans to blow out a chunk of hot air before I stop. When I flick the fans on at this speed I can actually feel a wave of warm air coming out.
 

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The other distinct advantage of the $20 fan mod is stopping the main radiator falling apart thanks to the fan brackets holding it together on the left side.
Please explain exactly the fan brackets can hold the radiator together
Joe's brackets work because they go from the frame down to the lower radiator

I went a different route......
Tossed the heat exchanger and all it's plumbing
Tossed the lower radiator, fan and all the plumbing

Split the left radiator tank in half, moved the outlet to the lower half, which allowed me to
straighten the water pipe and eliminate the hose to the header tank
Closed the old outlet and added a radiator cap to the right tank
Now the header tank isn't pressurized and it feeds the radiator by siphon
Then I added a Brutale oil cooler mount to the motor and a Ducati 848 oil cooler
Changing that for an '10+ MV cooler.....fits the fairing better

I had one made for Donsy too

:grin2:
 

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The other distinct advantage of the $20 fan mod is stopping the main radiator falling apart thanks to the fan brackets holding it together on the left side.
Please explain exactly the fan brackets can hold the radiator together
Joe's brackets work because they go from the frame down to the lower radiator

I went a different route......
Tossed the heat exchanger and all it's plumbing
Tossed the lower radiator, fan and all the plumbing

Split the left radiator tank in half, moved the outlet to the lower half, which allowed me to
straighten the water pipe and eliminate the hose to the header tank
Closed the old outlet and added a radiator cap to the right tank
Now the header tank isn't pressurized and it feeds the radiator by siphon
Then I added a Brutale oil cooler mount to the motor and a Ducati 848 oil cooler
Changing that for an '10+ MV oil cooler.....fits the fairing better

I had one made for Donsy too

:grin2:
 

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The additional fan if it’s fitted properly holds the left side of the radiator together exactly like the factory unit does on the right it takes the strain of both rads off the top left mounting by tying together the top and bottom of the rad. Joe’s bracket does the same but prevents a fan being fitted to that location. Although I did buy and fit one of his brackets before I discovered the fan option. Because the 1098 fan is ducted and much more efficient it moves a lot more air which vastly increases cooling especially at standstill. Thanks to a ferry booking for the TT didn’t have the luxury of spending time on reengineering the cooling system and the $20 1098 fan now means the 312 can sit in hot traffic without a problem. It has transformed the bike for a minimal outlay and effort. Have heard of others swapping all three fans for the 1098 versions to save weight and give even more efficient cooling.
 

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The additional fan if it’s fitted properly holds the left side of the radiator together exactly like the factory unit does on the right it takes the strain of both rads off the top left mounting by tying together the top and bottom of the rad.
The stock fan adds nothing to the strength of the radiator.....it's a sheet metal ring with long bent mounting tabs
it has very little strength in tension

And bolting it to the thin alloy straps of the radiator doesn't add rigidity either
:wink2:
 

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Farshore;
You can add all the weight you want to the left side......the right side has more support too
the lower radiator mount is toward the the right
the left has the weight of the water tube also
I like to make things simpler and lighter and certainly not add more electrical devices

:wink2:
 

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Knurl, not sure what you’re trying to say there. Anyway, compared to say welding up radiators and reengineering the entire cooling system or replacing the engine management unit and remapping, it’s not exactly adding vast amounts of complexity with a switch, relay and fan though is it? Plus it only costs $20 and as demonstrated supports the rad on the weak left side.
If you go to all the expense and trouble of swapping in a Y10 cooling system the upper rad has two fans anyway.
So to help those who maybe find electrical stuff challenging I’ve even redrawn that simple diagram to show how easy it can be set up, hope it helps someone else.
Knurl perhaps we should focus on the topic of this thread again because you’re going off piste just a bit.
Have fun and keep it real.
 

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Farshore;
This thread is an early attempt at cooling F4s......
You may not know it but the Forum has moved on

The problems.....
fans come on at too high a temperature, like trying to stop a runaway train
ignition maps are a joke, -4° initial on a 1000S, -10° initial on a 1000R, that makes them overheat
fuel maps are a joke too
The entire EBS system is a joke

The solution?
If you have a 1.6M ECU.....you buy a chip from Adam (merc07)
Fans come on earlier
Real ignition and fuel maps
The failure prone EBS system is gone too

If you have a 5SM ECU you need to copy the maps on Adam's chip and have the info flashed onto your ECU

An MV F4 has 40% more radiator core volume than a Ducati 1198 making about the same power

That's why I went my route......eliminating extra shit

On my 910R at long lights it was showing 105C+......bought a MicroTec for less than half price out of OZ
Now it will NOT GO OVER 92C PERIOD

Mitch says the 3rd fan won't work with Bodis pipes, they melt.....but his ambient temp is higher than yours,
so is mine and I have Bodis pipes too

Minor fabrication project......1000S radiator with '10+ oil cooler......looks like just a modded right oil cooler
bracket will do it
:grin2:
 

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Sorry you’re not gonna like this but you're wrong again this thread was started on Feb 21, 2013....
And the thread was........

Can anyone help with a good clean install of a manual fan switch for F4 312r please?

Don't want to rehash all the old arguments and reasoning, I know a wee bit about this subject , and have owned a couple of F4's They run hot and have a small enclosed thermal mass that needs airflow cooling this quicker and earlier before the heat builds works ,
 

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Resurrecting an old thread. I’m about to add this switch mod but my wire colours differ from the owners manual and Donsy’s site.

I have the following:

Grey
Grey / Black
Yellow
Black / White

Which one to ground? 86 is yellow not Black and White.

BTW it’s a 740 SPR and yes it needs a good clean ?

Thanks.
 

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