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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Couldn't figure out where this thread should go (mant., perform, cust.) so i'll leave it to a mod to find the right spot.


Take your oem pair valve plates and plug them up with 1/8 pipe thread brass bolt, or just about any screw/bolt that is about that size. For the folks outside the U.S. i think anything around 10mm will work just fine. If you find a really hard metal you wont even have to cut any threads with a tap. Just thread in the plug/bung with a copper or aluminum washer and that's it.
Should one wish to remove the little valves inside the cover there then you'll need to use some RVT/silicon sealant to put along the rim/edge for a good seal. Or its not going to hurt anything to simply leave things as they are and reinstall on top of the oem rubber gasket.
In the pics the tubes have been cut down flush to the cover itself, but it'll do just fine without cutting em down. Plus if you don't cut anything you can go back to stock anytime you wish.

EDIT: ATTENTION!!!! Important info...... So i find some other oem block off plates and decided to try to tap some thread in them. Turns out 10mm is going to be to big/thick. Finding a 9mm tap is all but impossible here in the states. Not to sure about those in countries using the metric system, but guessing its still a rarity.
Started running some threads with a 1/8 NPT tap and it cracked the nipple coming off the plate. Its weak metal and the bore is simply not large enough. Had to end up cutting off the nipples and retry through the thick part of the plate which worked out ok. If you have trouble getting the tap to catch pull out a 3/8 drill bit and run it through the orifice. This will make plenty of room to run the 1/8npt tap through. Have no idea why its called 1/8 when the size is actually 3/8 of an inch, but leave it to plumbers to confuse everything. One may be able to run a 3/8 drill bit down the hole with the nipple still intact, then try to run a 1/8 npt tap which should keep one from cracking the nipple itself.
Anyway, it looks like the easiest way to cap off the plates is to just run slide some hose/nipples caps over the holes and secure them with a zip tie. Might have to replace em once in a blue moon, but seems to be much easier to do than cutting and tapping. Although, the cut and tap method looks really clean. Just remember than once you cut the nipples off you can't go back to oem again.




 

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The second air system on the Euro 3 bikes, Dons.....

Don't disconnect this system with the stock ECU and Catalyzer though...your Cat will be ruined if you do. Only recommended with Kit ECU and pipes or Microtech and decat...or similar set-up

And for those who think it will improve performance, you do not understand what the second air system does. It has ZERO affect on performance. I pulled mine to save weight and clear the space above the valve cover, and the kit ECU doesn't operate the solenoid anyway.

I used 12mm Vacuum nipples over the spigots....don't forget to plug the hose spigot on the air box too!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The second air system on the Euro 3 bikes, Dons.....

Don't disconnect this system with the stock ECU and Catalyzer though...your Cat will be ruined if you do.



This is interesting. Can you share how this ruins a cat?
 

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The second air is bled into the exhaust stream to help burn the residual hydrocarbons before they reach the cat....also helps the cat get up to operating temps more quickly so it doesn't get contaminated during warm up.
 
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