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Discussion Starter #1
I have several mag parts but i want to change it's color (it's in gold at the moment).

I'm uncertain about what's the best thing to do. Should i just paint the parts, anodise, powdercoat, somthing else?
I don't know if magnesium should have any specific treatment different than aluminum or other metals regularly used in bike parts?

Any tips? :smoking:

Thanks
 

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I have several mag parts but i want to change it's color (it's in gold at the moment).

I'm uncertain about what's the best thing to do. Should i just paint the parts, anodise, powdercoat, somthing else?
I don't know if magnesium should have any specific treatment different than aluminum or other metals regularly used in bike parts?

Any tips? :smoking:

Thanks
As long as the Elektron coating from the factory hasn't been compromised then you can more or less surface finish magnesium with most things.

I wouldn't recommend anodising as I'm not sure how magnesium would react to this treatment.

If you have mag wheels or any other shock baring components, then it is wise to have them tested/ X-rayed for fractures.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As long as the Elektron coating from the factory hasn't been compromised then you can more or less surface finish magnesium with most things.

I wouldn't recommend anodising as I'm not sure how magnesium would react to this treatment.

If you have mag wheels or any other shock baring components, then it is wise to have them tested/ X-rayed for fractures.
Thanks J :smoking:

I think i'll just have them painted.
 

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Castle had his mag parts painted to match the originals for his "sleeper" F4 (not much of a sleeper with those Ohlins superbike forks).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Castle had his mag parts painted to match the originals for his "sleeper" F4 (not much of a sleeper with those Ohlins superbike forks).
Yes i have asked Dave about that some time ago and he offered his advice :smoking:
But this time i have some mag wheels arriving for one of the Ducs and i want them in black, so i was wondering if painting is the way to go.
Thanks.:f4:
 

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In case it helps anyone else here is the PM I sent to Tiago (MV-999R):

Hi Tiago,
Pete the painter says that:
1. You must use a good quality etch primer
2. A light spray of a high build two pack primer (this acts as a hardner)
3. Base coat (this is the colour of the item being painted)
4. Two coats of a 2 pack flattened (to reduce the gloss look) clear coat.

It's important to keep the coats pretty thin as you don't want to build up too much thickness to the part.

I'm not a painter so those instructions don't mean a whole lot to me but I'm assured any good painter will understand what that all means.


Tiago, as for wheels, I'm not sure what to suggest. Would you like to contact my buddy Pete the painter and get his opinion?

Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sure Dave. If it's not too much trouble, please ask him.

One of my doubts is if all that process should be made on top of the current gold "paint" (don't really know if it's paint) or should the current gold "paint" be taken off first somehow.
 

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I just went through this....what a pain in the ass.

I have a set of oro mag star rims I want to change to satin black. I have talked to numerous reputable finishers.... and all had their own ideas. So I contacted MARVIC. They were very helpful.

They suggested straight painting even though on their web site they recommend a powder paint. Here is what they say...they were very helpful, very nice and very fast a responding:

the re-painting of wheels is a very delicate process that could completely compromise their integrity.

In particular, two issues are absolutely fundamental: first the blasting must be done in order not to reduce the thickness and tolerances of the machining, second, before painting the metal must be protected with an anti oxidation treatment, otherwise over time you can cause oxide and in the long run make the wheels very dangerous.

Moreover, even the extraction phase of the organs of mounting could be difficult and "dangerous" for the integrity of the circle.


For these reasons I can suggest you to "scrap the gold paint" with the sandpaper, of different dimensions "smaller and smaller" and then to paint the wheels with
spray paint. In this way you do not have to remove bearings and so on since temperature for paint is about 70°, and you do not risk to damage the anti oxidation treatment.

Is it also possible to to send us a package with the wheels,
but considering transport costs it would be really expensive, since usually only for re-paint ancd check, without
transport the amount is of about 350,00 € per set. its address and your question.

I sincerely hope that my message has been helpful for you.
...................................................................................................

I then asked about powder coating at 380 degrees for two 10 min cycles. First cycle is a partial cure of an epoxy powder then a second cycle for a regular powder: Here is wht they said....................

room temperature for powder paint is not enough.
It would be enough for spray paint.
But to say the truth to me 380 is too much.
Usually powder paint get dry at 200.
Take care of the bearings and so on!
With kindest regards

..........................................................................................

So after much research I decided to buy new unfinished but corrosion protected mag star rims from MARVIC and have MARVIC finish them in satin black. They should be here is a week or two.

So as far as MARVIC is concerned used mag parts with a factory finish should be sanded and sprayed to maintain metal and corosion protection integrity. Many reputable finisher have disaggreed with MARVIC but.....I kinda decided that I would listen to the manufacturer..

my .02$
 

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Sure Dave. If it's not too much trouble, please ask him.

One of my doubts is if all that process should be made on top of the current gold "paint" (don't really know if it's paint) or should the current gold "paint" be taken off first somehow.
I think your next step is to work out where you are right now. By that I mean verify the coating thats on the wheels because that will most llikely determine the steps you need to take to get to where you want to be (correctly coloured wheels that are still safe in the long term).
Once you verify the current wheel coating I'll contact Pete the painter. He's an honest guy, if he does not know he will tell me. He won't guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great info bogie, thanks a lot :smoking:

The wheels i'm talking about look perfect, without any corrosion.

But i wonder if the anti oxidation treatment can be easly made just for security reasons before i repaint the wheels?
Anyone know what that anti oxidation treatment consists of?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think your next step is to work out where you are right now. By that I mean verify the coating thats on the wheels because that will most llikely determine the steps you need to take to get to where you want to be (correctly coloured wheels that are still safe in the long term).
Once you verify the current wheel coating I'll contact Pete the painter. He's an honest guy, if he does not know he will tell me. He won't guess.
Dave i still don't have the wheels with me but they have the original "paint" or whatever and look in good shape.
Please send these pics to Pete and i think he can go from there?


 

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The corrosion protection is with a chromate epoxy typically. It must by applied to bare metal ....and applied very quickly after media blasting and cleaning. If moisture gets between the chromate coating and the metal... the metal will corrode.

The idea from MARVIC is that media blasting if done incorrectly will damage and remove metal. This will compromise the circle.

If the Mag is heated too hot it may alter the metal compromising the circle… in addition the heat may alter the original corrosion protection applied at the factory.

If the rims are media blasted and chromate coated incorrectly or if water gets between the two the mag will corrode compromising the rims.

These are the reasons MARVIC suggest leaving the factory corrosion protection and spraying the rims.

I think the reason we all really shy away from just paint is…. It is not very durable compared to powder paint.
 

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I've done a bit of spraying and used various materials. If those were my wheels I would wash them well (protecting the bearings). Then (regardless of what the current finish is) I'd scuff them well enough to dull the finish (but not go through it) with a grey scuff pad (600 grit equivalent). You have to get every nook and cranny. Then I'd wipe it down with a good prep wash until the cloths came clean.

Mask off the bearing bores so no paint gets in there and using either a two part epoxy or urethane primer mist on a light coat, let it flash, and then put on a medium coat. Just enough to cover and not too heavy. You should have your clear coat already mixed and as soon as the primer flashes off spray a couple of light to medium coats of the base on there and follow with the clear.

The trick is to get enough on to cover and "grip" but no more than that. Too heavy is much worse than too light.

If you scuff the surface well to give it "tooth", clean it well and use high quality paint I see no problem in painting them. It doesn't matter what's on there either. A stone at 70 mph is going to nick any finish.

One last thing. Magnesium is nasty stuff when it comes to contact with air. It will start to corrode in a femto second so do not go through what's already on there or you'll be looking at corrosion blisters in awhile.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I'd leave 'em gold----------
 

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Lee is right on.... that's almost exactly what I have a Guy doing with my mag swingarm.

I've done a bit of spraying and used various materials. If those were my wheels I would wash them well (protecting the bearings). Then (regardless of what the current finish is) I'd scuff them well enough to dull the finish (but not go through it) with a grey scuff pad (600 grit equivalent). You have to get every nook and cranny. Then I'd wipe it down with a good prep wash until the cloths came clean.

Mask off the bearing bores so no paint gets in there and using either a two part epoxy or urethane primer mist on a light coat, let it flash, and then put on a medium coat. Just enough to cover and not too heavy. You should have your clear coat already mixed and as soon as the primer flashes off spray a couple of light to medium coats of the base on there and follow with the clear.

The trick is to get enough on to cover and "grip" but no more than that. Too heavy is much worse than too light.

If you scuff the surface well to give it "tooth", clean it well and use high quality paint I see no problem in painting them. It doesn't matter what's on there either. A stone at 70 mph is going to nick any finish.

One last thing. Magnesium is nasty stuff when it comes to contact with air. It will start to corrode in a femto second so do not go through what's already on there or you'll be looking at corrosion blisters in awhile.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I'd leave 'em gold----------
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've done a bit of spraying and used various materials. If those were my wheels I would wash them well (protecting the bearings). Then (regardless of what the current finish is) I'd scuff them well enough to dull the finish (but not go through it) with a grey scuff pad (600 grit equivalent). You have to get every nook and cranny. Then I'd wipe it down with a good prep wash until the cloths came clean.

Mask off the bearing bores so no paint gets in there and using either a two part epoxy or urethane primer mist on a light coat, let it flash, and then put on a medium coat. Just enough to cover and not too heavy. You should have your clear coat already mixed and as soon as the primer flashes off spray a couple of light to medium coats of the base on there and follow with the clear.

The trick is to get enough on to cover and "grip" but no more than that. Too heavy is much worse than too light.

If you scuff the surface well to give it "tooth", clean it well and use high quality paint I see no problem in painting them. It doesn't matter what's on there either. A stone at 70 mph is going to nick any finish.

One last thing. Magnesium is nasty stuff when it comes to contact with air. It will start to corrode in a femto second so do not go through what's already on there or you'll be looking at corrosion blisters in awhile.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I'd leave 'em gold----------
Great! Thanks Lee.
I'll pass this to the painter here just in case.

Black is the new gold :smoking::laughing:
 
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