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Hey all, I've ordered a new lithium battery to replace the heavy stock battery- anyone experience issues doing this to a F3 800?

I ask because my Ducati 1098 had regulator issues with a similar type battery replacement and it turned out to be an issue Ducati had with regulators at that time.......just wanted to ask the forum members if any knew of any issues that might surface doing this with the F3 800.

Cheers guys~
 

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I have an AntiGravity ATZ10-12 in my Turismo which generally has the same engine as the F3 (even has F3 on the casing) albeit in a different state of tune. The alternator on the Turismo is also, I believe, a higher output so not a direct comparison. However, have been running the LiPo battery for a year without any issues.

Dons of this parish recommended AntiGravity and I can testify to that advice being good.
 

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This is the battery I have on my F3 800. I have a lithium specific battery maintainer. Noco Genius 1200 I think. No issues. Starts much more robustly. Hoping this makes sprag clutch a little happier with positive engagement. Even starts in freezing weather but its ballistic when warm!

I have an AntiGravity ATZ10-12 in my Turismo which generally has the same engine as the F3 (even has F3 on the casing) albeit in a different state of tune. The alternator on the Turismo is also, I believe, a higher output so not a direct comparison. However, have been running the LiPo battery for a year without any issues.

Dons of this parish recommended AntiGravity and I can testify to that advice being good.
 

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I'm also running a Shoari LFX19A4-BS12 in my F3 800, have been for a little over a year and 13,000km.

Original battery was rubbish, heavy and didn't hold much charge or have much cranking force, had absolutely zero issues with the Shorai and have left it without being plugged in to any external chargers etc. for weeks with no issues. Although I'm glad it's a reliable battery as battery accessibility was not on MV's to-do list :p

There's a reason the OEM is called a BS battery... I'll let you put that together yourself.
 

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Used Shorai in the past with no issues on countless machines, on the F3 800 I wanted to go with more CCA (280CCA) and went with a Ballistic battery instead. Worked fine in 31 degree temps. from my understanding Shorai is older technology, but still seems to work fine for years of service!

Which one did you go with Steve?
 

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That has some warning signs for me... price too low and the CCAs in picture vs description. I think it is a low quality battery that will work great initially but after a year won't be any good.
 

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Chinese Lithium ..

Chinese Lithium batteries -- all the same --

I have taken apart a few of these Li-Ion batteries, and they are all the same construction - and seems to be made in China by the same manufacturer, and just given different color plastic "tops"

3 of these batteries had the same plastic extrusion marks, so even though they were labeled with different manufacturers and had different color, they were the same battery.

I took them apart because they failed in some way or other, most common is that one or more cells collapse because of too deep a discharge of the battery.

Some of the higher capacity (5 Ah real capacity) were built with 2,5 Ah cells directly parallel connected, which means they are in a state of "forced balancing" - if one of the parallel cells die the other one dies as well, and the risk of a fire is increased greatly :surprise:

Most of the cheaper chinese Li-ion batteries are made with flat "pouch type" Li-ion cells, which is not a bad thing in itself, but sometimes the cells take up only a fraction of the actual volume of the battery case, and any swelling of the cells, which indicates a bad cell, and can be a cause of the cell igniting, can not be seen.
Such a fire cost an importer of Boss Hoss Bikes and Trikes to loose 3 big block Bikes in a lorry fire. ---- :violin:
The red Li-ion battery shown in the photo is exactly the type I've taken apart, I bet it has a "test" button on top with 3 or 4 blue LED's to show battery charge ... Some of them work just fine, I have one on my lawnmower that has run 3 seasons now, and is only on a charger in winter.

I've built my own Battery for my F4, using quality flat pouch cells of 6Ah REAL capacity, with a BMS circuit and a balancing charger. Parts for this can be bought on the web, from webshops specializing in batteries for Drones and model aircraft. It WILL be more expensive, but the battery can be charged correctly, and you can keep an eye on the balancing, and replace a faulty cell.

I realize this is not for anyone unfamiliar with basic electronics, so I would advise buying quality , known brands of Li-ion batteries for your MV .. Just imagine the grief, if it quietly catches fire in your garage ,,,,,,,, :-( because you choose to save 30% on the battery ...:toothless
 

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I agree! Excellent write up!


In addition I have found that quality packs do better in the long run even when cared for perfectly. Since weight isn't really the issue on a motorcycle I recommend getting a larger capacity battery. It gives more room for error and better chance of staying balanced. Ideally buy the largest quality battery you can. Alternatively, just get the largest that will fit the bike and your budget!



For my hobby craft that are more susceptible to weight I simply purchase the quality pack. Specifications on charge and discharge rates also play a big role in the 3d heli/plane world. Capacity is more of a consideration for drones.



LiFe seems to be the choice for cars and motorcycles since heat and vibration are the concerns there. RC they generally refer to LiPo and cell phones use Li-ion.



Chinese Lithium batteries -- all the same --

I have taken apart a few of these Li-Ion batteries, and they are all the same construction - and seems to be made in China by the same manufacturer, and just given different color plastic "tops"

3 of these batteries had the same plastic extrusion marks, so even though they were labeled with different manufacturers and had different color, they were the same battery.

I took them apart because they failed in some way or other, most common is that one or more cells collapse because of too deep a discharge of the battery.

Some of the higher capacity (5 Ah real capacity) were built with 2,5 Ah cells directly parallel connected, which means they are in a state of "forced balancing" - if one of the parallel cells die the other one dies as well, and the risk of a fire is increased greatly :surprise:

Most of the cheaper chinese Li-ion batteries are made with flat "pouch type" Li-ion cells, which is not a bad thing in itself, but sometimes the cells take up only a fraction of the actual volume of the battery case, and any swelling of the cells, which indicates a bad cell, and can be a cause of the cell igniting, can not be seen.
Such a fire cost an importer of Boss Hoss Bikes and Trikes to loose 3 big block Bikes in a lorry fire. ---- :violin:
The red Li-ion battery shown in the photo is exactly the type I've taken apart, I bet it has a "test" button on top with 3 or 4 blue LED's to show battery charge ... Some of them work just fine, I have one on my lawnmower that has run 3 seasons now, and is only on a charger in winter.

I've built my own Battery for my F4, using quality flat pouch cells of 6Ah REAL capacity, with a BMS circuit and a balancing charger. Parts for this can be bought on the web, from webshops specializing in batteries for Drones and model aircraft. It WILL be more expensive, but the battery can be charged correctly, and you can keep an eye on the balancing, and replace a faulty cell.

I realize this is not for anyone unfamiliar with basic electronics, so I would advise buying quality , known brands of Li-ion batteries for your MV .. Just imagine the grief, if it quietly catches fire in your garage ,,,,,,,, :-( because you choose to save 30% on the battery ...:toothless
 

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Hello,

In trying to avoid a new thread, I allow myself to deviate a bit from the actual discussion
Following all the discussions on batteries, battery life expectancies and the possible consequences for sprag clutch
related issues, two things come to my mind
Your opinion would be appreciated
1.
There are devices available for continuous monitoring of the battery status
Even with a bluetooth connection
Any added value here?

2.
Why is there so much focus on Li batteries
All the experiences discussed here demonstrate the criticality of the battery being capable of providing a high enough
voltage, 13.2 Volt ?, for the required period of time (starting the bike)
That suggests to me that the battery should be capable of supporting this voltage level best AND have the smallest
drop-off when used
I would think that as already mentioned anything more then the standard 11 Ah is welcome therefore
But is, for covering these needs, a Li battery the best proposal?

Thank you for some advice in this

Evert
 

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without being all scientific, which it is a good read above^^^ Always go big when looking at CCA, as there is no such thing as not enough.
I have been using Shorai for the last 10 years (both batteryes in my 1199 and 675R are over 5 years and flawless), and have always gone with the higher CCA option based on the fact my Ducatis needed loads of power, and my triumph was sensitive to the volts for the ECU.. never had any issues to speak of , beside very cold start up on the bigger bikes 1098/1199.

My first mod to the F3 I purchased was a ballistic battery, 360cca, and it has been a solid performer, and based on the manufacturer, I will either disconnect it or leave on a maintenance charger for the winter.
 

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I had a JMT Li battery in my RSV4 for 3 years. Left the bike over winter with the cables connected.
No problem. Never needed a charger.


Now have the same battery in my 18 800RR. The MV pulls some energy out of it. So took the main fuse off and everything should be ok over winter.



Greetings from the Westerwald Region (@Evert ;) )
 
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On the subject of Lithium batteries: One point thats often overlooked is how high a charging voltage your bike can deliver! All the Lithium types require more than 13 Volts to charge fully, most of the Li batteries you can buy require 14 Volts at least, (Most need nominally 14,4 V) but must not go above 15-16 volts.
If your bike can not deliver a high enough charging voltage, you will never charge the Li battery to its full capacity, thus the 5Ah "china-cell" rated at 300 Amps cranking capacity, will maybe have 3Ah and 180-200 acc on a nice warm day ...
or on the other hand, your bike overcharges the battery on a long daylight ride, with long high speed stretches, and kills the battery that way--

My Ducati ST4s did not deliver high enough voltage to fully charge the Li battery I bought for it (China -cell) -- as a result it was drained by a long cold ride, using both full beams and heated grips. I changed both the Alternator Stator and the Regulator and checked all wiring, still no luck, only just under 14 volts at the battery at 2000 RPM .. So that bike is back on a standard High quality sealed Lead-acid. This it can charge fully!

BTW: Long term storage (Winter or years) Li batteries should be stored at about 70% capacity....
 

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Ballistic batteries for the F3 seem to be discontinued, as I have been periodically checking on their website and on a couple of aftermarket sellers sites, and all keep saying "not available".
I ended up buying a Scorpion Stinger SSTZ14S-FP (387 CCA) battery
https://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstz14s-fp.html
but have yet to receive it, so I cannot comment on it just yet. But reviews I've seen and read have praised it highly.
 
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