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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think my battery in my 2005 F4 1000S is near end of life and want to replace it.
I found this lithium battery:
Has anyone here used lithium battery in their 1st gen F4? Any issues with charging etc?
Thanks.
 
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Mine is from 2008. Never a problem. BUT... its life cycle is not forever. Its 2020 and we all know if something goes wrong its in 2020. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Lithium batteries can be expected to last for about 10 years -- sometimes a lot longer depending on the way it is discharged and recharged -- Storage of a Li-battery is best done cold and charged to about 75 % of capacity .. I've built a special charger for my homemade Li-Po battery for my F4 - in winter this keeps the battery at 80% charge - and balances the cells (In reality it charges the individual cells)
I have the same sort of setup in a UPS/energy storage system (solar powered) The LiFePo cells in that system are from 2009 -- and are still in very good shape -- they have lost about 7% of the original capacity -- about the same as the peak output of the solar panels has gone down.
 

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I'm running SSBs from bike biz in Sydney in my F4 and R6. No worries. Price is good too. Just make sure whatever you get has a battery management system (BMS). You will see the normal advertising BS where they all claim to have the secret recipe. I prefer batteries where I don't need their special brand charger like Shorai does. But you will need a lithium charger. CTEK lithium charger is great.
 

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With a "normal" Lithium battery of the type mostly used for Motorcycle batteries, the Charging voltage needs to be 14 - 14,4 Volts -- All the 1. Gen F4 and B4's I've seen put out slightly above 14 volts, so they will keep the Lithium charged at somewhere between 80 and 90% of full charge, which is close to perfect ..
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With a "normal" Lithium battery of the type mostly used for Motorcycle batteries, the Charging voltage needs to be 14 - 14,4 Volts -- All the 1. Gen F4 and B4's I've seen put out slightly above 14 volts, so they will keep the Lithium charged at somewhere between 80 and 90% of full charge, which is close to perfect ..
Thanks for the advice, I haven't received the battery yet.
I am curious about why I need a special charger, I would have thought that if the charging system in the bike works, why wouldn't a standard good quality charger like a CTEK charger do the same?
 

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Hi Dave!
The standard CTEK chargers are made for Lead-Acid batteries (Sealed cells as well) so they have circuitry that tries to optimize for that battery chemistry. That means that they use pulsed charging and burst charging -both of which are not good for Lithium batteries. Also the voltages used are specific for Lead-acid chemistry.
 

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Good to know, guys. Think I'm just about due for my 2007 F4.

I have lithiums in a couple of Hondas, so already have the appropriate (Optimate) chargers. Will look at SSB and Shorai.
As you're in UK Nigel, check out Shido batteries, Halfords sell them and if you have a trade card they are considerable cheaper. I have two lithium Shido's so far. The F4 is currently ok but when it's goosed I'll probably switch over.
 

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Lithium battery in both bikes, F4 started first spin after 3 weeks not being touched, no issues with charging - though it's worth noting the charge system on the bike is set up for a lead acid, but hasn't caused any issue on either bike I have. (y) You will also need a lithium specific charger if you intend to plug it in to charge as the batteries have completely different charging profiles. see - Can I charge my lithium battery with a lead acid charger? - Enerdrive

Highly recommend the lithium option though (y) Mine are both Yuasa I believe....
 

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You can't use lead acid smart chargers because of the desulphating mode which puts a high voltage charge through the batteries. You may well find if you have a smart charger that it has a lithium mode on it in which case it'll be fine.

I would say that I wouldn't recommend lithium on a bike with an alarm system or any other constant drain, or if you need to leave park lights on regularly. Although the cranking amps and voltage is better, lithium batteries tend to have much lower overall capacity. So rather than say an 8ah or 20ah battery, they may only have like 4ah. My Ducati 907ie has a clock on board, I left mine not connected to the charger for about three weeks and it wouldn't crank. The lithium battery charged straight up and quickly so no issues there, but I couldn't use it there and then. The stock battery was 20ah so could tolerate a slow drain, the replacement battery was only 7ah but cold cranking dished out 420a so it spins the starter with much more gusto.

The F4 lithium battery is 4ah capacity which is half the 8ah of stock so any parasitic drains will manifest themselves in half the time or sooner.
 

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I recently replaced ageing Yuasa with Shorai LFX19A4 19Ah for F4 Evo3 (have Optimate specific lithium charger). Fits as per original.
Great cranking power but swap has not been without issues. Good trip from London to West Midlands return with no problems but after month off bike have been constantly blowing 40amp fuse on starter relay. Will start and run well to begin but after 5min when revs are higher ignition light shows and fuse blown. Have changed for new starter solenoid so connections sound.
Maybe something else but system doesn't seem to cope with higher recharge demands of the lithium if not full. Main reason for changing to lithium was not having easy access to power source for trickle charger to the Yuasa so swapping to lithium hasn't been the success I planned.
More tinkering needed but if doesn't resolve then I'm going to switch back to lead acid.
 

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Shorai has their own specific charger and of course recommends using that. Mixing another brand along with it’s own specs might be doing some sort of harm to your battery. —The paired battery/charger I have is still going strong since 2008. No fuse issues, no troubles of any kind.
 

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Haven't had that problem at all. If low voltage is an issue why would it be blowing fuses? I suspect it is the opposite and just by coincidence something is cactus in the charging circuit. Charging circuits don't start at idle and normally kick in at x revs hence why your fuse blows when revved. Check the charging circuit and alternator. Or maybe the battery management system in the battery is fucked???? Volts are volts and cranking amps are cranking amps lithium or lead acid..
 
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