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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just spent the day fitting LED indicators front and rear. What a mission! The front ones where a bitch to fit but overall the job could have taken a lot longer if I had fitted resistors.

I was going to fit resistors to each indicator and visited my local motorcycle electrics guy this morning to buy a bunch of connectors for the job. He suggested I use a product called a Load Equalizer instead and showed me one on a Harley he was working on.

He didn't have one in stock but told me all I needed was a 3-wire one (instead of the 5-wire ones that automatically switch off the indicators after 10 seconds) and that I could buy one from the local chopper dealership. They had about 10 different models of Load Equalizer - each for specific Harley Davidson models. When I bought one of the 3-wire ones the guy at the dealership said they couldn't guarantee it would work because the product is for Harleys only.

Well, it works great. The flash rate is normal. It was very easy to fit too. One wire to the negative terminal on the battery, one wire tapped into the left indicator circuit and one wire tapped into the right indicator circuit. The unit is under my passenger seat. It doesn't heat up like the resistors and you only need one Load Equalizer unit per bike. I put it on top of my PCIII.

I am so glad I didn't try fitting resistors. There's virtually no room behind the headlight. I'm sure I would still be in the garage now trying to figure out where to fit them without melting or scratching anything.

So, for all you Brutie owners that want LEDs and a normal flash rate, here's what I used: **** EDIT: See my edit below - there is a newer/better model ****

Badlands Load Equalizer II
Part no. 36924
Cost $65 AUD

Other 3-wire units probably work too and a quick Google shows plenty out there for sale.

Roger


EDIT:

Okay, after using the above model for a couple of months I have found a limitation. When you are sitting at the traffic lights with a turn signal running for a few minutes the flash rate eventually increases to the extent that the Load Equalizer is no longer doing its job. This is probably from heat developing inside the unit.

Thinking that perhaps a different model of Load Equalizer would work better, I went to my local shop to buy another one. It turned out there is a newer model available, the Load Equalizer III. This new one has 4 wires instead of 3 and unlike the version I and II models that use ceramic resistors, the version III is "solid state". Not sure what that means but it doesn't heat up and appears to work very well. I installed it yesterday, tried running the turn signals running for a few minutes and the flash rate stayed constant and at normal (DOT) speed.

Like all the Load Equalizer models, the Load Equalizer III is marketed for Harley Davidsons and as such they only include instructions for fitting to Harleys. To fit one to your Brutie follow the instructions for a Harley except for the orange wire. Connect the orange wire to your positive (+) battery terminal.

In case you were wondering if just hooked this up to my Brutie and hoped for the best, I didn't. I did a little testing/experimentation first. The last thing I wanted to do was fry my SPU with a short-circuit so I wired the Load Equalizer III to an old battery in the shed with a spare LED and standard flasher relay. I used a multimeter to check for any current draw resulting from connecting the orange wire to the positive (+) terimal and black wire to the negative (-) terminal... And there wasn't of course.

The Load Equalizer III cost me $150 AUD at my local shop. I could have got it cheaper online but didn't have the patience. So far I'm pretty happy with it.

Roger
 

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Rog, an easier way would be to replace the stock blinker relay for a Narva LED relay. Cost about $15.00 AUD. You can use a mixture of standard bulb or LEDs without a load equaliser. The Narva LED relay are design to flash to the Australian ADR flash rate.

Do a search on the forum I did post the part number in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rog, an easier way would be to replace the stock blinker relay for a Narva LED relay. Cost about $15.00 AUD. You can use a mixture of standard bulb or LEDs without a load equaliser. The Narva LED relay are design to flash to the Australian ADR flash rate.

Do a search on the forum I did post the part number in the past.
Hi Minime, the Brutale doesn't have a separate flasher relay like most bikes. It is sealed within the Service Power Unit. This is why getting the correct flash rate on a Brutale typically requires resistors or other invention.

For most bikes though replacing the flasher relay with one like you have mentioned is the best way to take care of it.

Cheers

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, here's some pics. These are Shock Racing LEDs called "Mini 6". They have 22 LEDs in each light. I once thought they had just 6 LEDs in each and that put me off buying them at first. The fender eliminator and license plate light are from Motovation.

Sorry about the reflection from the sun. It's kinda warm here in Perth at the moment. :stickpoke





 

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Very Nice.
 

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Okay, here's some pics. These are Shock Racing LEDs called "Mini 6". They have 22 LEDs in each light. I once thought they had just 6 LEDs in each and that put me off buying them at first. The fender eliminator and license plate light are from Motovation.

Sorry about the reflection from the sun. It's kinda warm here in Perth at the moment. :stickpoke
They look great, but a "bitch" to install? Just curious what the difficulty was?
Warm in Perth...wish I was there instead of here in WYO, snowing and blowing today...I hate winter. :penguin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
They look great, but a "bitch" to install? Just curious what the difficulty was?
Warm in Perth...wish I was there instead of here in WYO, snowing and blowing today...I hate winter. :penguin:
There are two holes on either side of the headlight mount to choose from. The hole nearest the rear is too small for the LED bolt to fit through and even if you drilled the hole to make it large enough, the LED bolt is too short to go all the way through.

The hole nearest the front is larger and shallower so the LED bolt will fit through however, the surround of the rear hole (right next to it) obstructs any regular, hexagonal nut from fitting onto the bolt. Also, the inside surface is not at right-angles to the direction of the bolt nor is it flat for the nut to seat nicely against. Lastly, the hole is much larger than the LED bolt so it would be a very loose fit if nothing was done about it.

Here's a pic of the problem...


Mini 6 LED...


I didn't want to modify anything permanently so I chose to use the front hole rather than drill out the rear hole or put a thread in it. I made sleaves out of plastic to go inside the front holes. They have two outer diameters and push into the hole from the inside. They are shaped to contour the inside surface of the headlight mount and provide a flat surface for the nut to seat against. To make them I used a couple of plastic reticulation hose connectors from my local hardware store. I shaped them using a box cutter and a rats tail file (the file was to make the internal diameter big enough for the LED bolt because they weren't quite big enough).

Next was the nut problem. I filed a side off each nut so that there was only just enough metal left to hold the thread together. That allowed each nut to fit in place next to each rear hole surround. The nuts can't be turned because they butt up against the rear hole surround. Each LED and it's bolt are twisted on by hand.

So that solved the front LED problem but there was one more problem and that was the bracket the holds the brake and throttle cables out of harm's way. The OEM bolt that held the right-front OEM indicator light on (through the rear hole) also held this bracket on. To sort that out I cut a plastic masonry screw plug in half, put it in the rear hole and screwed a self-tapper into it from the inside. I had to jam a screwdriver into the plastic plug from the outside to stop it turning when I started screwing in the self-tapper.

That was hard to explain and probably even harder for anyone to read. I tried explaining it to my wife straight after I did the job and she just looked at me blankly. :loser:
 

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That's pretty good "shade tree" mechanicin' there Rog....you would fit right in here in Bubba land.
 

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I've rewired a lot of weird shit and built even more, yet I've read this thread a few times and it makes me confused. Maybe 'cause it's noon, 70 degrees outside and I'm drunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's pretty good "shade tree" mechanicin' there Rog....you would fit right in here in Bubba land.
Thanks Ed, it does feel a bit weird knowin' mah Brutale has a mix of household parts holdin' it togither tho'.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've rewired a lot of weird shit and built even more, yet I've read this thread a few times and it makes me confused. Maybe 'cause it's noon, 70 degrees outside and I'm drunk.
I just edited my post and added a pic of the LED indicator. That might help a bit.

70 degrees F... That's 21 degrees C. You must be freezing Dan. Are you drinking whisky to keep you warm? :naughty:
 

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drank so much whisky that I had to take a break and drink something else just to cool back down.
 

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Very good improvisation, and thanks for the detail...good info if I decide to go the same route.
Probably won't for awhile, I have eighty bucks in clear lenses & chrome bulbs, and I used my dremel cutting wheel to remove the front turn signal extensions...really changed the look.
But again, yours looks very nice, thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys I have edited my first post because I found a new, improved model of Load Equalizer. So far I think it is waaaay better.
 
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