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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Issue with blinking F4 Mirrors (not blinking or very lightly) - SOLVED

Hi guys,

I have a 2010 F4 and noticed that my right turning lights were flashing very fast whereas the left ones were OK. Turned out that my Front Right was not blinking at all and my Rear Right was OK, just blinking faster.

To make sure it was not the relay, I swapped the front mirrors and the issue was moved to the other side => My right front mirror was the problem.

I noticed that the negative wire was damaged so welded it to make sure there was a good conection. When I plugged the Front Right mirror back, I noticed that the LED barely light up. How is that even possible? This means that there is definitely electricity going through but not enough? I have tried removing the mirror itself to get access to the electronics t see if there was not a messed up fuse, but was unable to remove the mirror itself.

Is there anything you would suggest? Thanks for your help.

G.
 

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Nothing inside the mirror, just the wires and socket for the bulb which you can get to from the blinker lens.

As George says, bad solder joint. High resistance = voltage drop = dim light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guy, keep in mind they are LED lights so not sure how that could happen. Also, all 3 LEDs are weak. Would that bad soldier join be inside the blinker itself?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forgot to mention but the connectors (male and female) are damaged so might be the cause.

If you guys ever wonder what connectors Ducati, MV Agusta and KTM use, they are this reference: 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S (female) and 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S (male). They are called "JWPF Connectors" and they are cheap as chips (although you need to buy them 10 at once) and you can get quite a few for the price of only one on ebay...
 

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Damaged connectors bad solder joint (same thing) or something in the circuit that is dropping voltage (resistance).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I have ordered a few connectors so will try to swap and let you know if that fixes the issue. I hope it does as it is becoming hard to get MV spare parts these days...
 

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In your original post you said you welded the negative lead. I assume you mean soldered. That solder joint is probably the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In your original post you said you welded the negative lead. I assume you mean soldered. That solder joint is probably the problem
Indeed, I soldered it, because the plastic around the wire was open and most of the metallir wire were cut off. I soldered well after I had the issue and assumed that making a proper conection would solve my issue, which it die not. What I noticed though is that electricity flows between the positive and negative connectors, which is not the case when I test the blinker that works. That makes me believe the connector itself, which is broken, is creating a short circuit.

G
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Managed to find what the issue was... As per this picture of the inside of the blinker printed circuit (a real pain to dismantle it by the way), I found a moving part (at the tip of the screw driver) which seems to have broken and I have no idea what it is. I am not an electronic guy so was wondering if any of you knew what this would be? If I know what that is, I would be able to buy a new one and solder it back (just to try and see if that works).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-GlrFDHm9QctI8MIgys22_LECpmZA379
 

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Interesting. I don't think there should be any moving parts on that circuit board.

Of course it would help if we didn't have to search back through the thread to find out the year and model of your bike.

Posting that information in your signature line helps all help you.

Now, I think I would disassemble the left signal to compare. I know its a PITA, but that would give you a good example of what it should be.

It appears to me, without a comparison, that something has melted on the indicated component
 

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That appears to be a surface mount capacitor that has broken its solder.... Is there any indicator labeling on the other side of the board? like "c1" or "d2" that might give a clue?

The component may not be bad. I would try re-soldering it first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi all, the more I look into it the more I think the vibrations got the condensator (the rectangular thing I point with the screw driver) de-soldered. I also noticed that the component just above, called "M7" is de-soldered. I think I will resolder everything and see if that works.

I would love to be able to dismantle the other side, but it is so much work with so much risk of breaking the plastics (and ending up with USD 500 of cost) that I'd rather not.

Pretty amazing they are selling these indicators (excluding the external mirror) for US$ 200 when the full manufacturng cost is US$20 at best...

If my fix does not work, will be cool to re-create the full printed circuit and assemble all components... it is fairly basic based on what I see.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi there, it has been a while since I was side tracked but I FINALLY managed to find the issue and fixed it... It was actually the 8 pads tiny processor on the picture that was the issue... This piece of "dirt" was not letting enough current go through. Took me a long time to figure out that (had to dismantle the other side too) and to find the precise model since DD312 are typically not in this 4x4 format. I managed to buy 5 of them (just in case soldering had not gone well, cost me US$ 9.12 shipped to France for the all bunch) on Aliexpress and managed to solder the thing back and IT WORKED...

If anybody wonders why their turning light is messed up (dimmed light for instance), you may be interested to know that it is a DD312 format SOP8 from the company called SITI (Silicon Touch Technology Inc). The full description can be found here: http://www.siti.com.tw/product/spec/LED/DD312.pdf

Link to buy these DD312 if you need: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33060306190.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3df76c37ddJsVF

https://drive.google.com/open?id=130yp084a4yS8hsd_OO4Kn5-yBx8TXQco
 
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