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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bike shifts gears up and down great no issues...
However, if I punch it I notice the rpms will go all the way up without the bike actually accelerating like I just opened the throttle is that my clutch slipping? Or is that a transmission issue? Thanks in advance guys
486702
 

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Yes, if the speed goes up without multiple feed, the clutch can slip, but the wrong engine oil can also be used in both cases, the clutch linings are ready!
 

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It's time to pop the clutch cover and check things for specification....like the clutch springs.
 
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In a few words....it is the clutch.
As MV Thomas mentioned, using the wrong oil can ruin the plate friction material.
Some automotive oils (energy conserving) have friction modifiers that just aren't compatible with a wet clutch.
 

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In a few words....it is the clutch.
As MV Thomas mentioned, using the wrong oil can ruin the plate friction material.
Some automotive oils (energy conserving) have friction modifiers that just aren't compatible with a wet clutch.
Ed is obviously correct - in addition, some of those modifiers can cause the starter-cush drive rubber to also break down. That wont directly impact the clutch slippage but will result in clunky starting noises. Not quite related - but associated with incorrect oils being used.

Only a suggestion...
I've seen examples of using spacer washers to improve Clutch spring tension (should that be a preference over replacement)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
After a lot of research and reading other forums talking with other F4 owners it is definitely a clutch issue weather it be the springs or the plates, friend of mine has a brand new TSS slipper clutch that he is selling to me for a great price, just have to find the plates I saw a company called Newfren SR performance selling the metal and friction plates as a kit for $320 shipped should I just go with OEM tho? I saw on ebay they have carbon plates and trw Lucas plates for cheaper is there a difference?
486706
 

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What I have read so far is that organic clutch linings work best, e.g. from TRW clutch
 

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you need around 5/10 mill free play in the lever for a start, keep the fluid level at half to 3/4, don't overfill as it will expand when hot causing slippage,
if it still slips take out the steels and sand / roughen them up both sides before plonking down your $$,
you can roughen the steels with an orbital sander on a glass or flat table and stick some spark plug washers behind the clutch bolts when you reassemble,
guaranteed to work or your money back,
carbon are too hard no grip, and organic wear too quick sending your oil black in no time,
 

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Organic linings hold very well without excessive wear and tear and the engine oil does not get darker than usual, if something is wrong with the whole clutch package. Important!! Place the new clutch plates in JASO MA2 "overnight and then install them,

Viel Spaß.
 

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organic as in brake pads and clutch packs have better grip for shorter periods and hence wear out quicker contaminating oil as they burn, done many swaps in pro mx racing, carbon had less feel in the clutch, too hard, oem was best if not too much more expensive, same with the pads,
 

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on the Remns route ok but under normal conditions on the road the orange ones are certainly not wrong ......
 

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What I have read so far is that organic clutch linings work best, e.g. from TRW clutch
I see you said you have read about them but you haven't tried them yourself, well I have run them and so gave my findings,
I have swapped around 30/40 clutch packs over the years probably more, I lost count, I had boxes of them in the shed,
To Albert just try what I said as a cheap start and see how you go, when swapping from mineral to synthetic oil for the engine it may need the steels to be roughened as above, do it anyway, you will get way better grip with the drive,
Let us know how you get on with it,
throwing a set of spark plug washers under the clutch bolt will tighten up the feel and pull so make sure you adjust the slack in the lever so there is some free play,
 

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yes that is from a MV Agusta F4 driver who also drives the racetrack and has tried out all clutch linings and says himself that the orange ones are the best for everyday life and because I know the MV driver and know that he is also a specialist, I believe him too. other users have also after this experience the orange clutch linings (also before with clutch problems) and are very satisfied with it .... With a Wekcsel I would also switch to TRW .... for road use! But in the end everyone has to know what they want to build in!

Ciao
Thomas
 

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you can fix the problems without spending all your hard earned on assumptions,
just a little of how I know by rebuilding my kids racing bikes, and my road bikes over the years, they all use the same material, I spent time at the goodridge workshop that supplies teams in both road and track mx that explained the compounds,
 

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yes that is from a MV Agusta F4 driver who also drives the racetrack and has tried out all clutch linings and says himself that the orange ones are the best for everyday life and because I know the MV driver and know that he is also a specialist, I believe him too. other users have also after this experience the orange clutch linings (also before with clutch problems) and are very satisfied with it .... With a Wekcsel I would also switch to TRW .... for road use! But in the end everyone has to know what they want to build in!

Ciao
Thomas
you want orange i'll stick with a lemon, ha ha ha, whats the color have to do with it, many are interchangeable and much cheaper than using a honda kit vs a ktm clutch pack, that is the same, doing some home work will save your pennies, in all areas,
 

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soory can't follow what you're trying to say But I'm not a beginner, since M Agusta has been 20 years old and I'm a professional car master
 

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clutch plate colors don't matter, it's the compound and grip that matters and run what your happy with road or track, same with your pads, i am not going to waste my money when i know what works for me.
I spent way too much before testing over the years, just giving the op a cheaper go at it, no need to hype it up, it's only a road bike he is riding not for racing,
Whatever floats your boat it's your dough,
I've had slippage after changing to fully synth in both of my Aprilia rsv road bikes,
roughened the steels and some plug washers under the springs, no probs since,
 
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