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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
So I like to work on my bikes alot and I am good at it. So I did an HID (high beam) install on my F4 and my 2004 Brutale 750. The F4 has not given me problems with the HID, The brutale is the one wiith the problems. The light turn on without a problem, the problem is wile Im riding it turns off after being on for about 5 min. It then to be turned back on with the HI/LO beam button. Its not my connections because I soldered them and double checked them, No shorts either. Im woundering if its the ballast? Does anyone know why this is happening? If so, how can I fix it? I also replaced my turn signals for some L.E.D signals. They were working fine for several weeks,then one day my left(clutch,gear side) turn signals quit working. They do NOT turn on when I turn them on, but my right ones work. The lights work(front and rear), I checked them, its not the fuse, its not the connections. Could it be the realy(sp?), or the on/off switch itself, or the wires?
Any help would be great.
Thank You
Oscar
 

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HID - Where's the ballast in relation to the headlight?
Turn - This may be that relay/fuse box itself. Did you cut the bike's harness to splice the turn signals in?
 

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The Brutale dosn't have relays, its all in the SPU. Its a box on the right hand side of the bike under the side cover below the tank and seat. Black box with blue rubbery stuff behind. You might want to check this for and scorching or burn marks, if this is the case you'll need a new one. They are a sealed unit.

I changes the indicators for LED's on my 750 and the SPU blew, had to replace it. Definitely should be the place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@cnegron
Turn signal- I did cut the wires and soldered them to the OEM connectors. So it would look something like this:
---------------------------------------<>----------------***-------------0
line coming from the harnes , OEMConnectors , Soldered , LED turnsignal

I hope my illustratioun is clear.
HIDs- Isnt the ballast what keeps a steady flow of current going to the light?...so if thats damaged then wouldnt the light have problems?



@hebs
I thought that was my fuse box, but I found it and I dont see anything that might be burnt. How much do they run for?. Why would the SPU ge burned or blow? Arent the fuses there to protect things like that from happening?
 

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Turn - That looks pretty straight forward. It's probably your spu (relay/fuse box).

Hid- Yes that's the ballast, but where is it in relation to the bulb. Did you mount it in the under the pillion seat? extend any wiring?


@cnegron
Turn signal- I did cut the wires and soldered them to the OEM connectors. So it would look something like this:
---------------------------------------<>----------------***-------------0
line coming from the harnes , OEMConnectors , Soldered , LED turnsignal

I hope my illustratioun is clear.
HIDs- Isnt the ballast what keeps a steady flow of current going to the light?...so if thats damaged then wouldnt the light have problems?



@hebs
I thought that was my fuse box, but I found it and I dont see anything that might be burnt. How much do they run for?. Why would the SPU ge burned or blow? Arent the fuses there to protect things like that from happening?
 

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The SPU's blow for no apparent reason on some bikes, not a common problem but common enough. There is a new improved SPU that most people change for and they don't seem to have issues.

The fuses don't seem to do shit, I shorted mine fitting the LED's and the fuses were still in tact.

SPU's are about $400 USD I think, get in touch with one of the site sponsors and they'll fix you up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@cnegron
I think we are not on the same page here.lol. I think my ballast is damaged, so my bulb acts up. I did extend the wire but only by a foot or so, I used high quality wire and I soldered the connections. I was able to hide the HID ballast under the key gaurd, so no I didnt put it in the sandwitch comparment.

@hebs
$400!!...gees....its bad enough that Im 18 and insurance is sky high for me, plus I gotta pay for a parking garage and maintance on 3 bikes. Im basically working to keep my bikes running..lol. My only consern is that if I replace it and there is a wire making a short or something and my new spu get toast, does that mean I have to get another one or it gets replaced by the seller?
 

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At first glance the SPU does sound like the problem. They have a design fault in the early (pre-07) models and once replaced have never failed a second time. Yes $400 sounds a bit expensive, but when you consider that the 'dealers' have asked for $2k ....the sponsors are definitely the way to go.

But...don't replace it unless you're 100% sure of your wiring and fuses....and do not run with a fuse with less resistance, this will definitely result in you blowing the SPU.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@ cruiser
Thanks for the help. Im going to check all my wires tomorrow and then get a SPU. Is there a specific sponsor to get one from?
Thank you
Oscar
 

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Hey Oscar,
Ok - firstly the back of the fuse cover box has the OEM part # for the SPU.

Each to their own, my experience with Vesuvio was very good....but I was ordering from NZ. The USA sponsors are very good too. (not sure where you're based)

Cheers
 

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@cnegron
I think we are not on the same page here.lol. I think my ballast is damaged, so my bulb acts up. I did extend the wire but only by a foot or so, I used high quality wire and I soldered the connections. I was able to hide the HID ballast under the key gaurd, so no I didnt put it in the sandwitch comparment.


Typically, extending the wires TO the HID ballast is fine, as they're 12V. Extending the wires between the HID ballast and the bulbs is not good. There's a lot of voltage in there, and they make them very short for a reason.

Perhaps someone with more electrical knowledge can speak to this, but I would use "standard" length wires factory attached to the ballast to run to the bulbs only.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@ cruiser
Im in NYC, NY, USA. Ill search around for an SPU. Il let you know how it turns out once Im done Im done cheacking my wires. Thanks for the help.

@triangles1
Wow I feel dumb. Im and electrician and my uncle is an electrical engineer. I spoke t him about this problem in a brief conversation and he said that that might be my problem. If im not mistaken as current travels it drops voltage, so I thought a foot (12") of extra wire wouldnt hurt it . I guess me extending the wire on the ballast might of been the problem. Im going to get a new ballast and try to fix this. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@triangles.
I just noticed something. Even if I extend the wire to the ballast it doesnt help because I have no room to hide the ballast. it would only help if I could extend the wire to the bulb, but that might be were my problem is
 

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Extending the wire to the bulb isn't a problem. You have to use properly insulated silicone wire. HID ballasts first send a pulse to the bulb to get the arc started. This however doesn't appear to be your problem since the bulb starts without issue. It seems to me that your conclusion is right and there's a problem with the ballast. Do you have pictures of your install and/or hardware you used?

For the extension cable, I used this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230576481726&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123#ht_4848wt_1175 the second time I re-did this. The first time, using regular wires would cause problems getting the bulb started. I haven't done a write-up of the new install but should be posting soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the link. I didnt use any hardware since I soldered all the connections. I used shrinktubes with tape ontop of them just to be sure. I dont mind buying those wire from ebay but I rather not waste my money on them since I have alot of different types of wire and gauge sizes at my disposal. I also dont want to buy those wires because Im going to end up cutting the ends on them since I dont like having connectors. What kind of wire should I use instead of those for sale on ebay? Thanks for the help
 

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Spu ?

did u ever resolve ur issues with the HID?

also, re: SPU.... i have a 2002 f4 750 and just got the bike/btw..

the left side of the bike does not work/ turn sigs for the front and the rear....

the right side is fine....

is there a so called SPU for both left and right side ???

on left, the front mirror stem is cracked from shipping so, it could be the bulb out...i should check that first....on rear, i have one of those modded clear rear LED; red and amber turn.... i figure the LEDs should be good so...if the front or any one of the bulb on one side is out,does it not flash at all on that same side...to tell you that there is a fault ???

pls advise....

james R
2002 f4 750 newbie....
 

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On my previous R1200GS i had problems with the HID lights - when you start the bike the battery voltage is to low for the HID balast to "strike" the gas.
At first I thought it was the canbus system but realised it was the low battery voltage after starting as if I rode for a while as the battery voltage increased the ballast would then fire and the light would work
So what I used to do was ride down the road - rev it then kill the motor, then restart the bike and the light would work
But this seams irrellevant as your light comes on but then goes off
Some of the HID's are very fickle - a friend has similar problem to yours on his Land Cruiser
It might be worth trying a second ballast
 

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Oi James

did u ever resolve ur issues with the HID?

also, re: SPU.... i have a 2002 f4 750 and just got the bike/btw..

the left side of the bike does not work/ turn sigs for the front and the rear....

the right side is fine....

is there a so called SPU for both left and right side ???

on left, the front mirror stem is cracked from shipping so, it could be the bulb out...i should check that first....on rear, i have one of those modded clear rear LED; red and amber turn.... i figure the LEDs should be good so...if the front or any one of the bulb on one side is out,does it not flash at all on that same side...to tell you that there is a fault ???

pls advise....

james R
2002 f4 750 newbie....
Have you downloaded those manuals yet mate ? http://my.agusta.us/
I see your opening old threads all over the place and not getting much help. The F4's don't have a SPU mate, and only one relay which operates the indicators, the actual switch determines the direction.
I am not sure what these systems do when you have it half led and half confentional globes. If I was you I would do a quick swap of the plugs at the rear indicators, if your front right and left rear comes on then you know all is good at least at the back.

Then you need to remove and check the front indicator stay's, the part inside the fairing.

A view guys have had problems there and done mods to sort it, if you go half way they might chip in and see if they can help, but I think you need to look at that manual first.
Let me know how you get on, hope you got the seat open too.
 

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My wise word of advice:

DONT MESS WITH ANYTHING ELECTRONIC ON AN MV. IT CAN CAUSE YOUR BIKE TO BE IN THE SHOP LONGER THAN IT'S WORTH.

I love upgrades but i learned the hard way. The MV's electrical systems are so fragile that the smallest change can lead to a world of unknown problems. IF you read a lot of these posts, u will know what i mean.

this is just my $0.02 of my experience.
 
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