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Discussion Starter #1
how to bleed 19 x 20 Brembo front brake master cylinder?

I m installing an aftermarket brembo master cylinder and I was wondering how to properly bleed it? It looks like there is another bleed next to the master cylinder. Do I bleed that first or after or what?

appreciate any help from someone who's changed theirs :yo:
 

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Yeah, there should be a bleeder on the master cylinder that's 11mm.

It's a process... It will take a while. I normally hold pressure on the lever with a rubber band or a zip tie and then tap the calipers with a mallet or something, shake the lines around, shake the bars, and let it sit a while. Overnight won't hurt. The bubbles should make their way upward and then come out the bleeder on top (the master cylinder) when you bleed it. You should push some fluid through the bleeders on the calipers too, but if you're lucky there won't be much air in there.

I use regular Castrol GT-LMA that you can get at any Pep Boys. I used Motul RBF600 for the longest time but I could boil it easily on my Kawasaki race bike. For whatever reason, the GT-LMA worked better even though the specs say it has a lower boiling point. It's cheap stuff too. Resist the temptation to buy a large bottle. Once you open a bottle, you don't want to let it sit longer than a few days before it's no good anymore. Hence, the small bottle.
 

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STEP 1: Bring to dealer.

STEP 2: Cafe Americano with whole milk please.... do you have an NY TIMES? Tell cutie behind counter... "bikes in the shop...".

Bleeding brakes,- I always found this a real pain in the ass...
 

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You can get a vaccum bleeder at any auto parts store for less than $40, follow the instructions, there is nothing to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks I ll try that tomorrow as the wifey is making me call it a day :nutkick:

I ll let you know how it goes. I have a vaccum but it doesnt seem to be doing the trick. I want the brake feel to be much stronger than stock....

acruhl said:
Yeah, there should be a bleeder on the master cylinder that's 11mm.

It's a process... It will take a while. I normally hold pressure on the lever with a rubber band or a zip tie and then tap the calipers with a mallet or something, shake the lines around, shake the bars, and let it sit a while. Overnight won't hurt. The bubbles should make their way upward and then come out the bleeder on top (the master cylinder) when you bleed it. You should push some fluid through the bleeders on the calipers too, but if you're lucky there won't be much air in there.

I use regular Castrol GT-LMA that you can get at any Pep Boys. I used Motul RBF600 for the longest time but I could boil it easily on my Kawasaki race bike. For whatever reason, the GT-LMA worked better even though the specs say it has a lower boiling point. It's cheap stuff too. Resist the temptation to buy a large bottle. Once you open a bottle, you don't want to let it sit longer than a few days before it's no good anymore. Hence, the small bottle.
 

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i do the same - zip tie to keep the lever pulled in, overnight. if it's still spongy, i just keep pumping the lever, and then repeat the long-term pressure with the zip tie.

make sure you start the bleed from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder - front, left - then do the front, right.

i'm using motul rbf600, which is about the best stuff i've found short of castorl SRF. SRF is like $70/quart.....

alex

PS - how's the cbr coming along?
 
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