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I have read every thread on the forum about cooling issues and how to deal with them . I understand I live at the threshold to hell and its 100 degrees everyday BUT I have installed the muzzy fans , I'm running the upgraded impeller , took out the thermostat and serviced with water wetter/distilled water . My bike sitting at a traffic light will hit 236-240F with the fans running . I serviced the bike by filling up the lower rad first and then worked my way up . I've leaned it way over on both sides , running and shut down, I've tried pumping fluid into the the upper rad where the resivor connects . Besides the fan mod I've done everything possible and still can't win . I have searched the site up and down for tips and have done everything ive found so any suggestions would be great
 

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Try Evans Coolant, NPG-R. I used this in my 1999 Ducati 996 with good success. It is a waterless system. I think that the jug cost me around $40.

http://www.evanscooling.com/npg-r/

Also, one of the speed shops here in Denver, CO (Faster Motorsports) suggested having some work done on the radiator to improve the flow. He (Bart) had a name for the procedure, but I can't think of it, sorry. You can give them a call and ask for him. 303-825-0975 I am sure he could help you out.
 

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It's just not going to cool, all the mods you have done are to make a poor cooling system (it is the upgraded 750 cooling system from 2001) accepatble in 'normal' use................... The only real option you have left is to either run it without the side fairings or buy some of the vented on's that look crap.

I'm afriad you need to move house and live some where cooler
 

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I have read every thread on the forum about cooling issues and how to deal with them . I understand I live at the threshold to hell and its 100 degrees everyday BUT I have installed the muzzy fans , I'm running the upgraded impeller , took out the thermostat and serviced with water wetter/distilled water . My bike sitting at a traffic light will hit 236-240F with the fans running . I serviced the bike by filling up the lower rad first and then worked my way up . I've leaned it way over on both sides , running and shut down, I've tried pumping fluid into the the upper rad where the resivor connects . Besides the fan mod I've done everything possible and still can't win . I have searched the site up and down for tips and have done everything ive found so any suggestions would be great
I see you have done the Impellar mod but i would suggest you fit our CNC racing Oversized water pump with fairings. we have noted tempratures not going over 100 Degrees celcius when installed on F4 1000R and 1078RR bikes in hot and humid climates.

I am that confident that it will reduce your tempratures to an acceptable levels that if you install it correctly and make sure there is no air in the cooling system and still tempratures run that high i will give you a full refund guarentee:naughty:

http://www.designcorse.co.uk/Mv_Agusta_Overheating_solution/Racing_Upgrade_Water_Pump
 

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Water pump

Wow. This upgrade looks promising. Even more so than the impeller upgrade I just purchased. I might just purchase one for my bike. I wonder if somebody can start a poll just to find out how many MV's actually overheated here. I already know mine will when it gets here because just like in Huston, its is very hot and humid here in Guam. I am starting to have regrets buying the bike now hearing almost everybody's heat problems.
 

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Wow. This upgrade looks promising. Even more so than the impeller upgrade I just purchased. I might just purchase one for my bike. I wonder if somebody can start a poll just to find out how many MV's actually overheated here. I already know mine will when it gets here because just like in Huston, its is very hot and humid here in Guam. I am starting to have regrets buying the bike now hearing almost everybody's heat problems.
:laughing::laughing::laughing: Don't bother with that poll. Every old model 1000 cc bike has overheating issues.

BTW; When I was very young we used to have a neighbor women we used to call Titty because ehrm,....eh. Well you know why.
 

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Check the operations of the thermostat and put it back in. Removing the thermostat does not allow the coolant enough time to transfer the heat in the radiator.

It will make the bike run even hotter as there is no way to regulate the temperature.

Not sure if any aftermarket make this, but maybe look for a thermostat that opens up at a lower temperature.
 

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Don't know if you've run across the manual fan switch mod in your searching but it does the job. Just run the fans continuously below 40 mph. The whole trick is to get the jump on it before it gets so hot.
 

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Check the operations of the thermostat and put it back in. Removing the thermostat does not allow the coolant enough time to transfer the heat in the radiator.

It will make the bike run even hotter as there is no way to regulate the temperature.

Not sure if any aftermarket make this, but maybe look for a thermostat that opens up at a lower temperature.
What?????????????????
 

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I have the muzzy fans, moved them closer to radiator and sealed the gap, put in engine ice, have the DC billet high flow water pump, fans set to come on at 190 (they pretty much run all the time ) and my bike still over heats if I am in stop and go traffic. The issue is not just the cooling system. No matter how well it works there is no place for the hot air to vent out of the body. Since the air can't circulate out there is very little cooling flow through the radiator which is why the bikes run fine with no panels on. I am in the process of putting huge vents in my panels as we speak. The aftermarket vented panels I am sure work great but the vents work better when moving. I wanted something with a huge open area that would allow heat out when just sitting still.
 

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Like Lee said fan override switch.I have done all the mods and fitted the fan switch last.Should have done it first.It is the cheapest,easiest and best mod of them all,Mitch.
 

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A number of forum members have lowered the under-fairing temperature by ceramic coating the headers. This is the high tech equivalent of wrapping them. Lee did this in addition to his fan mod, I think. The tradeoff is that the heat that was formerly radiating from the headers and being dumped inside the fairing will then be routed out the exhaust, which raises the temperature of the silencers quite a bit and can cause problems in the seat area.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Check the operations of the thermostat and put it back in. Removing the thermostat does not allow the coolant enough time to transfer the heat in the radiator.

It will make the bike run even hotter as there is no way to regulate the temperature.

Not sure if any aftermarket make this, but maybe look for a thermostat that opens up at a lower temperature.
Hey thanks for all the tips , I check out the vented fairing , or like i seen on here and mod my own . I put a bowl of water in the micro wave and heated it till about 190ish and threw the thermostat in and it opened full so I guess it will go back in tonight . I had a crazy thought and I was going to drain the coolant and lean the bike to the far right and service it through the drain plug on the water pump till it comes out the thermostat hose to insure the engine was full of coolant . Then service the lower radiator and work my way up again
 

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Hi everybody
I am new to this forum but not new to Italian bikes. I own a few but... this 2008 F4 312R i bought seems to follow all the posts. I bought it 1 year ago put 500 miles on it and now it needs a new radiator and waterpump. The water pump was covered under an extended warranty I purchased (thanks) but not the radiator. Yes I already put my radiator collapse profile into the questionare and I guess I fall into the upper left radiator corner for failure. It seems to be the overwhelming failure point. I am posting to see if anybody has a good price on a radiator. New or used but I guess there is an upgraded new radiator so new is preferred. Or if anybody knows where to get one at a good price. Sad that a $25k bike has an issue like that. Again I do have 5 bikes at home right now 3 italians and 2 germans, so please spare me the "thats what you get comments". It was my first Agusta and will be my last nooooooooo waaayyy will I buy another one. Ok I am going off on a tangent. The dealer says they will get me one at cost for $418 is that really cost? I can not believe MV is not stepping up to the plate with all these failures and recalling these radiators. Shame on them. Please help
 

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sheyme PM the forum member CAG. He buys and sells bikes like yours and mine all day long. He also has a HUGE supply of used parts for around half of new. He'll have your radiator. You'll find him here http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/member.php?u=3135 you can PM through the forum or use his email.

Good Luck !

I forgot to welcome you to the forum :yo:

sorry it's under bad terms
 

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Another forum member (adammv1000 i think) had the same failure, took his radiator to a radiator shop and they isolated the top core for a fraction of the price of a new one. He said he never had anymore problems with it. I had the same thing done to the rad on my R1 when it got holed by a stone. No problems.

I had the same failure with my 312R, top left split, had the rad replaced under warranty. I have my radiators out at the moment, I was going to get the top core isolated as a pre-emptive thing, but the new upgraded radiator looks like it has done away with the top tube all together. So if you get a new rad make sure it is the new type, but I would be inclined to go with Adams solution.

Sorry if that was long winded!
 

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yeah that is the question. Maybe I can get it re-cored. But it is curved so I am worried. No no answer is winded. I am trying to fix this the right way so I am open to any suggestion.
 
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