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I had an idea to rewire the high/low beam button so it works like the highbeam flasher button. (both high and low beams on at the same time) At times it's really dark at night here, so I find myself holding down the highbeam flasher button a lot so i could see further ahead on the road...
Simply jumper 2 wires on the high/low switch. You have to jumper the black wire to the red/green (red with green stripe) wire. I used a small piece of wire the same gauge as the existing wires. Just be careful soldering so you don't melt the switch's plastic housing.

 

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well i have to be honest in that it wasn't my idea. i got it from f4 forums. somebody posted a schematic/photos and all that. great resource that was as is your post.
 

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Style_one,
Do you remember where you got your information - which forum? Hopefully there'd be something in simple English - for a guy that doesn't even know what a diode is could follow. I agree that there's an un-nerving lack of near vision on high beam.
 

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unfortunately, it was from a forum that doesn't exist anymore. maybe whenever i get around to stripping my bike down to clean it i'll take pics of all the little tidbits to add to the blog spot.
 

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Style one...any chance you could post a pic of where you wired the diode from? Some of us..(who..me??? :confused: ) arent exactly electrically adept.

Thanks!
 

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You'd need to hold the button down with your thumb - on my bike at least - not recomended !
 

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i'm going to have to remember to borrow a camera to take some shots. i did this so long ago, i can't remember what the instructions were unless i have them laying around somewhere. i'll look into it. if i haven't responded in a couple of days...just pm me for a reminder.
 

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I remember people doing this on the R6 boards. Problem was, the heat generated from BOTH filaments being on for extended times resulted in strain of the electrical system as well as melting the bulb housing. Anybody have this issue on the MVs?

I know alot of people ride with thier brights on during the day for visability, so I'm a bit sketchy about this mod as I'm one of those people (sometimes...if I can remember :laughing: )...also, melting of anything is bad juju...
 

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i've been too busy as of late to take pics, i apologize. however, if being able to see or even be seen is an issue, i would strongly suggest HID. after i installed it i rarely use my high beam. you can see wayyyy down the road and be seen at the same distance. only time i use high beam is in dark corners due to the sharp cutoff of the low beam pattern. BUT, i'm still planning on taking some pics.
 

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style_one said:
only time i use high beam is in dark corners due to the sharp cutoff of the low beam pattern.
Yup...that seems to be the only time I use them too...
 

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Hello gang,

on my F4 1000S, when I press the high beam button (not the "pass switch") the normal beam switches off and the high beam comes on, normal.

If we switch to HID for the normal beam, when pressing the high beam button, the HID is off....
question: Isn't there a delay (ballast energizing) before the HID comes back on after you switch off the high beam ??

thanks


Erick
 

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once the HID light has been on and the gases charged it will come back on instantaneously. think of flourescent lights. same principle.

now as far as i know, the low beam should not turn off when you use the "pass" switch. they should both remain on as the pass function is a flash.
 

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Tripleinside said:
question: Isn't there a delay (ballast energizing) before the HID comes back on after you switch off the high beam ??
It depends on many characteristics, it's not the energizing of the ballast that's the problem, it's the establishing of the arc in a hot lamp that presents the biggest issue.

I have no real working knowledge of the low power automotive HID systems, my experience is with slightly higher power/wattage systems (typically .7-4KW systems) but presumably it's very similar technology?

I have yet to see any HID lamp offer instantaneous 100% output as soon as it strikes there will always be a delay (even in a hot lamp). That delay period varies wildly dependant on lamp design and ballast/ignitor characteristics.

I would assume that the automotive systems would be designed to minimise this delay period as much as possible but it still won't be instant.
 

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I'll test and let you know. I ordered an HID kit, but the ballast is too big, so I'm waiting on a slim version.
As soon as I get it, I'll let you know..
 

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darthmvader said:
what about just pressing the high button and leaving it on all the time?

thats what I do with my other bikes....
Doesn't that piss off cage drivers?
 
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