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Cut and extend the wires with quality same gauge wires. Solder the splice! Dont just twist them together!!!! Install the ballast under the tail/seat area to keep it away from heat. Run the wires along the original harness. Have fun!
 

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Don't know your location mate but if your in the UK then it is illeagal to fit these to any vehicle that does not have self leveling headlights. Come MOT time you would have to retro fit the stock lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cut and extend the wires with quality same gauge wires. Solder the splice! Dont just twist them together!!!! Install the ballast under the tail/seat area to keep it away from heat. Run the wires along the original harness. Have fun!
Thank you sir. :yo:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Don't know your location mate but if your in the UK then it is illeagal to fit these to any vehicle that does not have self leveling headlights. Come MOT time you would have to retro fit the stock lights.
I'm in the USA...I'm sure they frown upon it here also but I have all my bikes with HID's and I like it. But thanks.
 

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I'm in the USA...I'm sure they frown upon it here also but I have all my bikes with HID's and I like it. But thanks.
I'd love to have them on my bikes to chief, but the grief I would get from local plod makes it not worth the effort.

Good luck with the install
 

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Since the Brutale is a "naked" bike, there isn't a good place to put the ballast properly.

What I did was install it using a relay, extending only the 2 ignitor wires and the 12 volt coming from the headlight

Like this:



This picture doesn't show the wires coming back to the HID bulb but you get the idea.

I drilled a small hole on the bottom of the connector junction on the headlight. ran the wires up through there to prevent water entering from above.

The other part is that those ignitor wires need to be heavily insulated, since the voltage for the initial pulse is very high and it can short through thin insulation.

I think I have some pictures of my install in my gallery. (hopefully) I will check.
 

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If you get the HID kit specific to the original bulb fitting (H4, H7 etc), then you only need to plug the kit into the existing harness and add the connections to the ballast. It should be no different to any you have fitted before in this respect and should not require any special fittings or cable cutting/splicing etc. You can of course extend the power supply cables and ground cables to enable the unit to fit where you want it as described in LuLLaby057's post but it should not be necessary, it depends where you want it to go. I would opt for chocolate blocks (block connectors) after terminating the cables where you cut them for the extension piece with boot lace ferrules. Much easier to lengthen or shorten or even just remove in the future.

I remove mine from my RF900R every year for MOT, then re-fit the HID afterwards. It takes about 5 minutes after I have removed the plastics for access.
 

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I have HiD on my Brutale. Slim line ballast fitted under the front right hand side of the tank, just behind the cover for the diagnostic plug. Resistor is attached to frame just above radiator fan. On the bike for 8 months now with almost daily riding including Le Mans, Poole Bike evenings, ACE Cafe, Brightonia, places where there is a high Police presence and not always the most bike friendly. Been stopped a few times and having an HiD wasn't on the list of reasons other than they saw me coming...... :naughty:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Since the Brutale is a "naked" bike, there isn't a good place to put the ballast properly.

What I did was install it using a relay, extending only the 2 igniter wires and the 12 volt coming from the headlight

Like this:



This picture doesn't show the wires coming back to the HID bulb but you get the idea.

I drilled a small hole on the bottom of the connector junction on the headlight. ran the wires up through there to prevent water entering from above.

The other part is that those igniter wires need to be heavily insulated, since the voltage for the initial pulse is very high and it can short through thin insulation.

I think I have some pictures of my install in my gallery. (hopefully) I will check.
Thanks, this helps a lot. I didn't think cutting the wires from the ballast to the bulbs would work. But it opens a lot of placement options. I currently but the ballast behind the dash and cover (slim ballast)but I don't like it there. My kit has a Little black box in-line from the ballast to bulb I assume it is the igniter. Should I cut the wires before it or after it to the bulbs? Thanks in advance.
 

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If you get the HID kit specific to the original bulb fitting (H4, H7 etc), then you only need to plug the kit into the existing harness and add the connections to the ballast. It should be no different to any you have fitted before in this respect and should not require any special fittings or cable cutting/splicing etc. You can of course extend the power supply cables and ground cables to enable the unit to fit where you want it as described in LuLLaby057's post but it should not be necessary, it depends where you want it to go. I would opt for chocolate blocks (block connectors) after terminating the cables where you cut them for the extension piece with boot lace ferrules. Much easier to lengthen or shorten or even just remove in the future.

I remove mine from my RF900R every year for MOT, then re-fit the HID afterwards. It takes about 5 minutes after I have removed the plastics for access.
So when Is your F4 Getting to meet my Brutie? Good to see you got your posting problems sorted to chief. you still aff shore?
 

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Thanks, this helps a lot. I didn't think cutting the wires from the ballast to the bulbs would work. But it opens a lot of placement options. I currently but the ballast behind the dash and cover (slim ballast)but I don't like it there. My kit has a Little black box in-line from the ballast to bulb I assume it is the igniter. Should I cut the wires before it or after it to the bulbs? Thanks in advance.
I cut the wires after the ignitor because they are separated and thought it would be easier. I do think that the ignitor is what provides the pulse and it seems to me that it would make sense to actually move the ignitor. However I won't recommend it since it isn't what I did. Maybe someone can chime in if they have done it that way. Also, the bulb connectors are AMP superseal 1.5, so you could potentially buy 2 sets of connectors and not have to cut the bulb or the ballast connectors.



http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/10876/956
 
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