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Discussion Starter #1
So as part of my tail tidy effort for my 2010 F4, I opted to change the blinkers rather than customize the stock ones.

So I know I should have waited until I got my shop manual for this thing.. but I figured, The damn thing already has LED Blinkers on it, So it shouldn't have been a problem. But it is.

I did not use the extras that came with the new blinkers (flasher unit, resistor, etc)... because of course the stupid bike already had LEDs and presumably a flasher unit there somewhere.

But of course they don't work.

Advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah, I may have to do that... The LED's I got don't flash at all... so what... does MV put all the resistor and flasher crap in the signal housing? crazy... I'll try and wire them up with the resistors and all that business see what comes of it.

I've mangled the new signals so no returning them, kinda committed to using them now... but you know what... I think I might relocate my originals as you did, Chris. Might need to have you come over and lend a wrench. You got a shop manual for this damn bike? Mine are apparently being shipped from Italy, by sea turtle.

L
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"Don't work" as in no light or fast flash rate ???
No flash / light at all.

The lights came with a resistor, and what looks like a flash unit (per light) which is typical of LED applications going in place of standard bulbs. None of that garbage is wired into the circuit. The signals are wired directly (via reused connectors from the originals) to the harness.

No joy -- at all.
 

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They light up if you try them across a battery? - you have got the polarity right I assume??



any circuit diagram supplied - if so did it show resistor in series with the Led?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Polarity is correct... there was no wiring diagram (of course) but not my first rodeo... from the parts and connectors it looks like (per side)

[Signal] == [Flasher unit?] == [Resistor] == [Harness]

of course I left out the stuff in the middle. it should at a minimum light (if not flash) of course it doesn't. my question is, does MV have the resistors and flash unit at the harness or are they somehow built into the signals?
 

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We can get together some day next week if you want, and put your stockers in the vents like I did. Just hit me up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: I think the LED units themselves are dead. they don't illuminate no matter what, direct wired to the battery, using the resistors in line (which shouldn't matter since they're just a load equalizer) or having the flasher unit in line. -- back to the store.

For the other folks here, though, check my assumption: I can hook generic LED lights up to the 2010 MV without any of the garbage in between, because MV's are stock with LED flashers.

Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For those seeking an answer to the one I asked above. Correct. The 2010MV has the proper load resistance and flash unit for LEDs... and you need only direct 1 for 1 replace the LED tail lights with new lights.
 

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The 3 LEDs in Brutale 990/1090 mirror indicators turn on
(ie open about 5.5 volts ) They are nicely bright by 12 volts - If you just replace the filament bulb with the triple LED mirror the load on the relay is insufficient so the flash rate is faster. Not sure if there is room for a standard 21 watt bulb inside the rear Std indicator housing to compensate - Right, off to get a 21 watt bulb!
Update
So a single 21 watt bulb fitted at the rear flashes at the correct rate with the front 10watt bulb removed (sort of common sense really)
Running the Mirror indicators (Brutale) on the bench at 12V we are looking at ~210 milliamps so ~ 2.5 watt There is an Ba 15s (bayonet fitting 15mm diam. single pin) 12V 18w bulb out there from marine stores but doesn't really fit in the standard Indicator body as the glass bulb is pressed against the lens when it's closed up.
Readily available are 12V 15 watt but with the small glass sphere same as the OEM
Total load on the relay = 17.5 watts This give a marginally faster flasher rate but barely noticeable.
 
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