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Discussion Starter #1
While my recovery following the June 10 accident is positive (I can sleep five hours a night now - congratulate me, please!), wish I could say the same for my girl (the italian one).

She was almost without a scratch, but I knew from a friend that she was gushing oil from one spot, I have just turned her on after two months, now I know where. :bawling: I ran for my tissue box...hopefully I wont have to fetch the wallet yet.

>>On the left hand side, we see the (F4) engine block cover. BELOW that same cover ON the engine block itself, we see three raised metal notches, screws go into them, no? Well, the middle one on mine has been almost scrubbed off from sliding on the asphalt...when the bike runs, oil gushes HORIZONTALLY to the rear, in a stream about 2mm thick (it's a big one), probably a litre/minute (!!!), the arc of oil hits the back tire.>>

I thought I would do the repairs myself, believing them to be minor - but damn, does this require a NEW bottom half of the engine block, or is there a way to patch up or weld this tiny metal notch? :wtf: It seems so minor. This is the only leak, and the only problem with bike, apart from missing mirrors and turn signals.

If we absolutely need pictures, give me two more days to get a camera. Let me know what you fellows think.

Thanks!

Peter
 

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Oil gushes horizontally in a stream 2mm thick. So you are saying it is not a small leak?

I've never seen oil squirting out the side of an engine so I vote for a video.

I congratulate you on your recovery. If you decide to replace the engine, let me know. I have a 910R engine with a few thousand miles on it and I'll even deliver it to you.
 

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May be repairable....maybe not. Photos???? JB Weld may be your friend for a patch. Quality aluminum welder for better repair, but engine dis-assembly may be needed to achieve.

Sounds like you have tapped into a main oil galley. Do NOT run the bike until repaired.
 

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May be repairable....maybe not. Photos???? JB Weld may be your friend for a patch. Quality aluminum welder for better repair, but engine dis-assembly may be needed to achieve.

Sounds like you have tapped into a main oil galley. Do NOT run the bike until repaired.
Party pooper.
 

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I was about to suggest CAG for possible used cases to do it right!!!!
 

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If what I have circled is your problem.. I'd have to say your in need of a new engine block :bawling:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Trust me here, pissing oil is a great motivator for shutting off tout suite.
Cooper, you are a lifesaver- that is it!!! Can this not be repaired then with a simple weld (no disass)??? What is the significance of this middle metal piece - does it serve some function besides a cruel joke?

So, seriously - a new engine block for only 3mm of missing metal?

Thanks for the quick responses, guys. All in all, I am happy that it is the bike pissing oil and not my head spinal fluid, as was the case two months ago. :)
 

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Trust me here, pissing oil is a great motivator for shutting off tout suite.
Cooper, you are a lifesaver- that is it!!! Can this not be repaired then with a simple weld (no disass)??? What is the significance of this middle metal piece - does it serve some function besides a cruel joke?

So, seriously - a new engine block for only 3mm of missing metal?

Thanks for the quick responses, guys. All in all, I am happy that it is the bike pissing oil and not my head spinal fluid, as was the case two months ago. :)
No it can be repaired. Blocks etc have oil gallerys drilled through them to get the oil to the crankshaft etc. Judging by the picture it will have to be welded, then re-drilled and whatever that bung is in the end reinstalled. Bare in mind to do this metal swarf/fillings will get into the oil gallery so it really needs stripped down for a perfect job.:cry:
 

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Take the bike to a good engineer and have it professionally evaluated.I don't mean a dealer I mean a shop that does aluminium welding ( just like Henry at Alumacraft UK ). Then you will know whether it is repairable or not. Aluminium can be welded. Cylinder head cracks can be repaired. The question is can this be repaired without hauling out the motor...?

I hope it is something minor too for you

joe
 

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leaky?

if you've lost the gallery plug (circled in cooper3309's picture)
just have it welded, you won't need to remove the engine

remove the ECU and dash before having it welded

:f4::brutale:
 

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if you've lost the gallery plug (circled in cooper3309's picture)
just have it welded, you won't need to remove the engine

remove the ECU and dash before having it welded

:f4::brutale:
You may be a life saver. It would suck to save the engine and loose the electronics.
 

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If you get it welded over the end make sure that it's not going to block the gallery. Somewhere down that hole should be an intersection point with another hole with luck this is not too close to the end where the damage is. If it is close to the welded area then it is a problem.
Just looking at the photo how the casting bulges out in the vertical it would seem that the other intersecting gallery is in that and somewhat close to the damage area.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good advice, all of you. I considered the options, and is there any consensus on going the simplest route first (JB weld)? Would this hold up against the oil pressure, at least long enough to where I could take said creature to a weld shop? Could not I also call a mobile welder to examine on site?

I will try to post pictures of the damage soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
if you've lost the gallery plug (circled in cooper3309's picture)
just have it welded, you won't need to remove the engine

remove the ECU and dash before having it welded

:f4::brutale:

may I say - this is obviously brilliant advice...none of this :lightning
 

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if you've lost the gallery plug (circled in cooper3309's picture)
just have it welded, you won't need to remove the engine

remove the ECU and dash before having it welded

:f4::brutale:
From my experience this would not make a difference....as long as you dont have the ground clipped on the actual ecu and it is near the point where you are welding. The current will travel directly to the ground and not flow through out the metal....

that is why you can touch or sit on the surface you are welding with no shocks....at my old work we had two large balers that frequently needed welding repairs...each baler cost about 650K and had very sophisticated electronic sensors and computers...we never had any damage from welding.


BUT...who knows who is going to be welding on it..maybe better safe than sorry.
 

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JB Weld is your friend....clean surfaces are essential to success.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, we have one pro JB weld. Any others?

CAG, you still be interested in the gushing bike porn (the only bike competition I will be winning any time soon)? Happy to oblige. Let me know if so, I would have to borrow a more sophisticated digicam from a colleague. And top the gusher girl off with more oil.

-p
 
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