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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Cant believe this has happened but the trail of events is weird. Sometime back after returning from a ride, I parked the bike and walked a few steps away and hear a sound I never wanted to hear. :banghead: :banghead:That stupid stand or stupid me ..... the bike slipped off the stand and fell onto a car. The tank got badly chipped and the side panel also scuffed. Tried to start the bike to check all is well inside. There was smoke and a burning smell coming from under the tank fearing the worst I switched it off. On removing the tank it turns out that the female quick disconnect had cracked and thankfully I had already had the metal one from Cag (thanks Cag). Unfortunately on trying to connect the male female disconnect the black O rings got pinched and broke. Damn .... tried quite a few o rings but all of them leaked. Finally wrote to Noel and the Knurl shipped them out immediately. can’t thank him enough. Once that was fixed we tried checking for leaks and the moment the fuel pump primed there was a leak from the threads on the fuel pump. While trying to fix this the mechanic helping me out put some glue (silicon type) near the threads so the leak would stop and we can check if everything else works fine. Now I would like your help on 2 problems.

1. The leak on the threads needs loctite I think. Donsy mentioned Loctite 577 on his thread for the metal quick disconnects. But if there is any other way to stop the leak please advise.

2. The fuel Pump stopped working in between all this. Checked fuses, battery fully charges, cleaned fuel filter, checked current on the power cable, checked pump on direct current and the pump works but once on the power cable there is nothing, after checking with direct current on the pump and re-fixing it on the power cable there is a click but thats it, the pump wont prime.

Now I do have the older SPU/CPU unit. The one with the blue back but all electrical’ s are working fine. Sometime back the high beam, low beam switch played some tricks, not sure if its the switch or something else but the high beam light on the dash is always on. No matter if I am on low beam or high beam and this happened a few months back and there was no issues with any electricals.

Thanks for all the help.
Sarge
 

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Just a stupid question... do you have an alarm? When my fuel pump did not work anymore we searched 3 days for it and it was only the alarm...
 

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leaker?

Sarge;
1.instead of the 577 i'd use Teflon tape....
use 2 complete wraps 3 at most
point the fittings threaded end away from you, put the tape on the bottom side and rotate the fitting clockwise

2. sounds like the SPU....... another blue backed POS bit the dust:jsm:

i think Andre at StarTwin has the best price for the SPU
check CAG's sticky at the top of the page for the correct part number
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Noel, anything else I should check before I order the SPU. I dont have another Brutale in the area that I could check with. Does the 312R and the brutale 750 have the same SPU?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yup, did just that, order has been placed with startwin ..... will update once I have the new unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
okay here goes, have the new SPU thanks to startwin (fantastic service) but still no luck with the fuel pump. it gives a hint and clicks but thats it.

Any more idea's.
 

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Have the battery tested before just buying a new one. No point in swapping out good parts without testing them first.
 

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You need to have that battery load tested. I assume you mean the battery has 12.9 volts,not amps. You should have well over 250 amps on a good battery if that's the case. The voltage is only half the story. You might have 12 + volts with the battery doing nothing, but when you put a load on it, the voltage and amperage could drop off. Your local mc shop or auto parts store can put a proper load test on it. Most of them don't even charge for the battery test .
 

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Out of curiosity why has the fuel pump stop working after the bikes fallen over, it surely couldnt damage that easily.
 

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+1 to the tip over sensor, or..
Since reading your original post over again, you mentioned there was some minor electrical issues. Perhaps the fall jarred some wiring loose and finished it off. The fuel pump might share a common ground to earth with other components of your bike? If you can get a wiring diagram, that would make your it easier for you to pinpoint .
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the fuel pump was working after the tip over infact it was working all the time till I could get the metal fuel disconnectors fixed. I had to wait a bit for the oring but the moment all that was fixed the pump stopped. cant figure it out.
where is the tip over sensor?
 

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The new spu has a different fuel pump prime to the old one, it might sound different....

Is it the fuel pump clicking or the starter solenoid when you hit the start button ?
Try some jump leads as Donsy says, triple check which terminal is which before you put the leads on ;-)
 
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