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I got this part, and will get it mounted very soon. Hopefully it will bring enough improvement, so I won't need additional lights (doing key week-ends usually early season and end season, and having a good lightning is key for me).
Marc, you can test what the result will be like before fitting, or even buying (too late in your case), the adapter. Holding down the pass/flasher switch whilst on low bean gives exactly what you'll get on high beam once it's fitted.

Is it the best light ever fitted to a motorcycle? No it isn't. Is it an improvement over the standard high beam? Yes, I would say that it is. For the relatively low cost and considering that it's an official factory part I would, IMHO, say that it's money well spent.

For a lot of night time riding and/or if you commute all year round then you'll probably want some axillary lighting as well.
 
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Marc, you can test what the result will be like before fitting, or even buying (too late in your case), the adapter. Holding down the pass/flasher switch whilst on low bean gives exactly what you'll get on high beam once it's fitted.

Is it the best light ever fitted to a motorcycle? No it isn't. Is it an improvement over the standard high beam? Yes, I would say that it is. For the relatively low cost and considering that it's an official factory part I would, IMHO, say that it's money well spent.

For a lot of night time riding and/or if you commute all year round then you'll probably want some axillary lighting as well.
Chas,

I tested it this way. Probably not at the level of my 955i Daytona MY2000 after it was properly set up (lightning was very good on this bike), but at least it should be acceptable. On the long run, I may have to consider additional lights as well, but if the requirement arise, it will be later during the year (October/November, while ending the season)... Days getting longer, and at the end of the month, we will switch hours. I'll have some time to decide (NB: most of the riders I'm going with on week-ends have German tools (big ugly motorbikes, with a duck face :) ) with lot of them using additional lights. I'm still not sure I'll need additional lights... Will see).

I'm still trying to get the connector fitted this thursday, as I have my first week-end of the year (will be in Ardèche) this week-end. I'm sure it will be better than what it is currently :)
 

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I placed this five light LED bar with some custom made brackets I cut in my shop. The brackets had to be thin enough, like 1.5mm in width, to fit into the lower fork clamps gap. I bent the mending plates into place while fitting the light.
For the connection, the yellow wire going to the headlight is the low beam running light. and only removed the display to have a clean install.
It was less than twenty dollars for everything and the lights are superbright. I decided to do this before dropping $500 for the Clearwater lights.

I wanted something that looked clean, did not come off of the bottom of the forks and turned with the wheel. I will try it out tonight and give some feedback.

I tried for thirty minutes to get my photos straight up with square and rotating. It is about a 100mb transfer. ugh Any ideas?
 

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Hi All,

Mounting the connector tomorrow, expecting to be able to use the bike on anything else than highway at night starting tomorrow. This week-end going for an early week-end in Ardèche, and I should able to assess requirement or not for additional lights from this week-end (if you want an idea of the type of roads I'll be going this week-end, have a look into this video
, that will give a fair idea if you remove the snow and reduce the speed...)

Marc - Nice roads ahead :)
 

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It is super bright so I am sure its adds a measure of safety. The light is a bit diffuse but it has its intended affect of lighting the way into a turn. I am sure Clearwater lights are more focused, but for the difference, I will stay with these.
 

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Quick update after a week-end with the new connector in place.

It's MUCH better. Actually I'm not sure I'll need additional lights, as the lightning is quite good with the update. I would not say it's like running a day, but it's no longer having the impression being blind.
 

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Glad to hear that Marc. I agree that it's a definite improvement and for the relatively modest cost and and ease of fitting a very worthwhile upgrade.

It would be interesting to know if the 2017 model comes with this from the factory.
 

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I was at Ed Cosker's last week and Jamie, their tech, told me that he has now perfected his technique on the install of these (mine was the first) and can do them in 10-15 minutes. He said that the nose cone doesn't actually need to come off, it's fiddly but doable. TBH, nose cone removal isn't that hard, just lots of those tiny screws, but maybe worth trying before you get that stage. If you find yourself struggling then remove it anyway.
Thanks a ton Bumpkin for the detailed instructions on fitting the headlight upgrade. Much appreciated. Till I got to the wiring I did not realise the new cable was a replacement for an existing connection not an addition. Dont think I could have done it so easily without your photographs.
 

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From the US, I am dialing 011 61 88541 0390. Is this right? I am getting a sound like a fax tone. Does anyone know if Ed has any high low beam connectors left?
 

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Ed Cosker the dealer has gone out of business unfortunately. Ed did have some of these on ebay but I can't find them so maybe all gone. An MV dealer should be able to order one for you. I'm at Motocorsa tomorrow, will try and remember to ask.
 

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Motocorsa have them in stock, will buy one and if you want it I'll post to you. £12 plus postage. If you don't want it that's not a problem, someone else will.
 
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If you have access to one, where I do not, I would be glad to purchase from you, Bumpkin, if I am understanding you correctly. I can send payment any way you prefer.
 

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:highclap:I am going for about a 800 mile ride on July 8th weekend with a friend to Charleston, NC, on the coast, and would love to have more lumens.
 

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PM me your address and I'll send it. We can sort out payment once I know what shipping costs and you've recieved it. Will use a service that gets it to you within 7 days so you have the chance to fit it before your trip.
 

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Following the instructions earlier in the thread, I took the nose off and replaced the connector in less than an hour. Now, the low beam is on with the high. Along with the LED light bar, I put between the forks, in the air gap, there are plenty of lumens. Nice upgrade.

Riding with my buddy, Brian, maybe on the Nanchez Parkway or to Lexington, KY this weekend. Stoked
 
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That was a quick replacement.."less than an hour". Like to hear how the extra lumens improve the 800 mile trip you are taking.


Any significant areas of concern when taking the shrouding off that haven't been mentioned?
 

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Our trip went into Lexington, KY to the corner of Virginia, to Blowing Rock, NC and back to Atlanta, which ended up being 1200 miles in three days. I drove my truck to work today!

Just follow the instructions earlier in the thread. There are a few more than twenty screws to take out. Only about four of them that were in a corner, which I had to use a socket bit, took a few minutes extra. Most all of the screws are of two lengths and are intuitive which holes they go back in. I did separate the pockets, from the shrouds and nose screws so I wouldnt get screwed. The wiring harness is wrapped twice with a rubber tie and a velcroed cover. It is really a simple chore.

I did not ride at night, but I am sure it helps. I have a light bar as well, so that is it for me, with headlights.
 
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Quick update from what I read in a TV group in Facebook : the adaptor is now present on the Euro 4 model by default apparently.
 
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Just bumping an old thread to say thanks to all the members that contributed. The upgrade took almost no time once the fairings were off.

Just to add to the collective, the wire harness routing on my new to me TVL would contact the fork tubes on the left side of the bike when approaching mid to full lock. Anyone putting in the adapter may want to check and add if needed a couple of wire ties to keep all in place.

One other item - do not put any downward pressure on the grey panels that get screwed to the front fairing. The plastic male tit that fits into the whole on the lower black cover popped out just lining it up for re-install. I assume this is not a pressure fit and just may not have been glued. Easy fix - remove the inner panel drill a small whole into the well where the male tit is recessed into. Re-install the male tit and re-drill into the base of the male tit and run a screw keep the tit where it belongs.

Also stuff the dash in a big zip-lock bag when removing the nose cone fairing to avoid scratches; wish I had done it the first time I had the nose off.
 
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