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Alex is a great guy. Use him if you need help getting parts as he is not only accessable, he will also go the extra mile to help those in need like he did with me. thanks Alex! all his contact information is on the web page


On a side note I had a bad chain adjuster as the spring popped out at the reset and it was stuck only 1/4 extended making the chain slap causing flakes of brass from the timing chain to appear in the oil. if you think your cases are making more noise than they should they probably are so pull the radiator (reason given below) and yank that adjuster out. If you have no problems with it they reset quite easily by reinstalling the part. Make sure to remove the center bolt first and reinstall it last. If upon reinstall the part does not make a nice snap into place which is very audible you may have a weak spring. This part will cause rough idle, lurching at low speeds as well as a distinct "lifter tick" upon start up. Extreme conditions it will sound like a rod knock.

If you buy a used MV, do yourself a favor and check that part first as it will save you time and money diagnosing rough idle. Reinstall all hoses with ideal clamps as well if you do not have NEW Factory clamps. They work fine. USED Factory clamps become weak after reuse causing seepage. Further, people that do not have the clamp tool WILL damage the radiator lines prying and whatnot to get the clamp off. I had 2 radiator lines nearly shut because of this clamp issue as the previous owner no doubt bent the aluminum trying to remove the clamps sanz proper tool. If you have a bent up radiator line simply insert a punch and lightly hammer it back to true. The punch will come out without prying as long as you LIGHTLY tap in. Use a file to remove any bad edges and ride on. The adjuster will be seated immediately. Oh.. alumaseal will work on the small pin holes you may get due to a bad weld (left side radiator)

Be well. Deuces Down
 

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Alex great dude, very passionate about his work. Hope he's here forever.
 
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