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Discussion Starter #1
Over winter I turned a chunk of 20mm Alloy plate into this;





It started out like this


Tested it for the first time today. It simply fantastic to be able to shift up full throttle without backing off. It sounds pretty awsome too with the Arrow stubby.

Dave.
 

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real nice. looks like it means business.
 

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Quick shift is fantastic. I have it to and it's sounds awesome. Yet by looking at your pictures I can't figure out how you've made it work. It seems as if it's mounted underneath your shifter with no possibility for axial movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Erik, I went with the 4-101 load sensor so it doesn't actually move. The pivot in the middle of the gear lever allows the load from your upchange to be sensed buy the pull sensor and do the ignition cut.

Dave.
 

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Hi Erik, I went with the 4-101 load sensor so it doesn't actually move. The pivot in the middle of the gear lever allows the load from your upchange to be sensed buy the pull sensor and do the ignition cut.

Dave.
Cool. An other lesson learned..
 

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HELLO ErikV
SINCE WE HAVE SAME BIKE 2010
WHAT MODEL PART# FOR QUICK SHIFTER DO I HAVE TO GET
IF I WANT FOR MY BIKE?
 

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HI dmac666
IS THAT GONNA WORK WITH F4 2010 MODEL AS WELL?
LOOKS AWESOME
 

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HELLO ErikV
SINCE WE HAVE SAME BIKE 2010
WHAT MODEL PART# FOR QUICK SHIFTER DO I HAVE TO GET
IF I WANT FOR MY BIKE?
You need the stand alone Dynojet Quickshifter together with the Linear Travel Sensor Kit.
Mounting however gives some problems. The 2010 version has dual injectors that both need to be interrupted. The plugs that come with both the quickshift module and the sensor kit do not fit the MV so the wiring has to be incorporated with the original wiring.

I've added the manual.
 

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hat off to you mate well done with the engineering skills. Im not so gifted so bought mine, a dyno one which works with the power commander. Cant wait :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I scratched my head for ages on how to make a 28 pointed female spline. In the end I found an Excel macro that drew the circle with any number of segments, that’s the indexing sorted. I sacrificed a good 13mm drill and ground it into a cutting tool for machining the splines but that didn’t work, it was too flexible. I then struck on the idea of using an old boring bar I had. It worked perfect as I could adjust the tool bit in and out to allow me to slowly make the splines deeper until it fitted correctly. A couple of hours going up and down with the drill press and presto, another sore arm.

 

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Man, that piece is sweet. I love to see guys doing their own work.
 
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