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Discussion Starter #1
With Fall/winter time here in Oregon the precipitation is here, leaves a falling, and mud on the good roads from farm trucks.

Have a few things i want to get done on the F3 800 and was not quite sure how it would be compared to previous bikes i have worked on. (add reservoir fluid, check which battery i have, pull shock for rebuild, servo eliminator, Air filter, oil change, brake fluid change, remove front reflector brackets)
I would say from the start, the F3 has some nice fitting panels, and overall not to bad to get the bodywork off.
Way better than the Panigale and the countless tabs (THAT BREAK).

With the bike having an ohlins damper kit, getting to the battery is a huge ordeal. With the damper kit using the Front tank mounting bolts, you have to jack the bike up to unload the top triple clamp to get that off, before being able to access the bolts.
The gas tank comes off pretty easier otherwise.

Pulling the shock off, was a headache for sure.. way to much work if you need to swap it out, or change springs.. hoping the shock comes back set pretty close to the right rider sag, as not intersted in breaking knuckles or taking it off to get that adjusted.
 

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you don't have to remove the top triple clamp to get the damper off, did it countless times on my F3 without (actually never had the top triple off ever!). Not even when pulling the forks...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you don't have to remove the top triple clamp to get the damper off, did it countless times on my F3 without (actually never had the top triple off ever!). Not even when pulling the forks...

The damper is easy enough to take off, it is the front gas tank mounting bolts which are not accessable with the damper mounting ring there...
 

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The damper is easy enough to take off, it is the front gas tank mounting bolts which are not accessable with the damper mounting ring there...
I had the same problem with mount under the top triple. You can get the mount off without removing the top triple though. It is a little tedious.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had the same problem with mount under the top triple. You can get the mount off without removing the top triple though. It is a little tedious.

Which mount you running? I would of thought they would have clearanced the plate under the triple enough.. Maybe with all the run flowing I missed something?
 

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first remove the ring, then you have access to the gas tank bolts :) you can remove the ring without removing the top triple

I'm running the same mount
 

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Discussion Starter #8
first remove the ring, then you have access to the gas tank bolts :) you can remove the ring without removing the top triple

I'm running the same mount

Didn't have any instructions for the mount as it came with the bike, will take a look at how it is mounted and how it is possible to do what you guys are saying.
After going through the bike, there doesn't seem like a lot of places to drop weight on the bike, beside a battery, 520 chain conversion and exhaust, or some Pricey CF wheels.


Order a ballistic battery and exhaust servo eliminator today, should drop a few lbs for sure and be a way better battery than the stock BS one.
 

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Aluminum subframe to drop some weight? I'm looking into it myself but first want to compare it to the stock subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Aluminum subframe to drop some weight? I'm looking into it myself but first want to compare it to the stock subframe.

That is a viable option for sure if no passengers are planned... Just pulled the wheels and had the tires removed before getting the wheels to the powder coaters.
Was surprised as to how heavy the stock forged wheels are (done on a certified scale)..
Front-Bearings still installed 9lbs 1oz
Rear Wheel- 10lbs 7oz


Ordered a Ballistic battery that should lighten things up a bit and give way more CCA 360.
 

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A lot of the weight on the front wheel is from the disks. Is the weight you are referring to with them off? I guess it is if they are slightly lighter than the rear. I guess I sort of answered my own question. But is the weight with tires? If so, what tires are you using and how many miles on them?
 

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All OEM equipment fits on the aluminum subframe so you can use your rear fairings and seat...

Aluminum subframe to drop some weight? I'm looking into it myself but first want to compare it to the stock subframe.

That is a viable option for sure if no passengers are planned... Just pulled the wheels and had the tires removed before getting the wheels to the powder coaters.
Was surprised as to how heavy the stock forged wheels are (done on a certified scale)..
Front-Bearings still installed 9lbs 1oz
Rear Wheel- 10lbs 7oz


Ordered a Ballistic battery that should lighten things up a bit and give way more CCA 360.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A lot of the weight on the front wheel is from the disks. Is the weight you are referring to with them off? I guess it is if they are slightly lighter than the rear. I guess I sort of answered my own question. But is the weight with tires? If so, what tires are you using and how many miles on them?
Yes that is without the rotors, tire etc... barring forged magnesium or carbon fiber not much weight to knock off them.
Will take a look at the rotors, but not sure how much weight there is to save there. Some aluminum or titanoum buttons would help a bit, might check to see what braking offers,, but i like the feel from the stockers.
 

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Nope but sometimes they use different pictures than the actual product. I was looking at some Zard headers and they looked exactly like the MV headers. Turned out the picture they were using for Zard headers was the pic for MV headers.
I'm just going by what they claim on website...

and now look at it. do you see any mounting points for the ABS module or passenger pegs?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
You will see this a lot with sellers outside the US, (picture may not be exact or varies) from actual part.

Trying to figure out what brand of sprockets I will go with for the 520 chain conversion, been using drive systems and did erv3 chains, so hoping they have something.
Also thinking some GB engine covers would be a great addition, and removing the CNC gold anodized stuff the bike has now.
The big thing I am looking at is removing the AFM exhaust and going with a SC project or arrow full race system. wondering how the 2 compare as the longer pipe of the high mount should add a nice bump in torque.

FYI: Getting the front wheel bearings out was a major pain in the A$$ without the bearing removal tool...
 
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