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i did have a problem way back with stalling MV/PFG fixed it not a problem since well up untill today that was

Good thing is i think i found the problem (this may be in aus only) i normally fill up at freedom fuels or BP but today i filled up at SHELL V max 98 after 5 mins of riding stalled then huffing tickover all over the place ran the bike till empty filled up at a independent fuels bike ran purfect again

any one else have this problem
 

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i did have a problem way back with stalling MV/PFG fixed it not a problem since well up untill today that was

Good thing is i think i found the problem (this may be in aus only) i normally fill up at freedom fuels or BP but today i filled up at SHELL V max 98 after 5 mins of riding stalled then huffing tickover all over the place ran the bike till empty filled up at a independent fuels bike ran purfect again

any one else have this problem
Hi Mate, I have found BP 98 Plus the best, Shell over here is very dodgy.
 

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You may find this interesting, I did: I watched a program that showed how gasoline is made. It showed the process from underground oil to finished product at the pump. The interesting thing was that the "gasoline" wasn't "branded" (Shell, BP, Scooter's, etc.) until it was pumped INTO the truck. Into each truck, while filling, was blended the chemical "package" that made the gasoline the brand you purchase at the pump. Up until that time, it was clear unbranded petrol.

So, perhpas there is a difference in the chemical package they blend for the folks Down Under.:wtf:
 

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I use BP, Shell, Caltex and Mobile...but only ever 91....she never misses a beat
 

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I buy whatever R+M/2 89 octane and have zero problems....whatever station comes to hand when the fuel light comes on.....I would like to buy non ethanol gas, but that is getting near impossible. I have started treating my gas with StarTron when I know I won't be riding for a while....E-10 gas has a shelf life of about 2 weeks max.
 

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Hi there,
What is the difference in fuel types anyway?

I was of the understanding that the higher the octane rating, the better the grade of fuel - is this not the case?

If I read the above correctly, you guys are suggesting that 95 or even 89 octane fuels is better in the Brutes than the 'premium' 98+ octane stuff.
 

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Hey Dan,
I've run regular unleaded in my Brute since day one and occassionally put 95 or 98 into it. I've have zero problems running on the lower octane grade but I do have to run higher in my Harley - she pings and taps out like a bitch if I don't.

The Brute on the other hand runs clean and hard on regular ...however I would add that my Brute is ridden 3-5 times per week so she gets a regular run and the fuel doesn't sit there for weeks on end...

Cheers
 

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Higher octane fuels burn less violently than lower octane fuels. That is what prevents the pre-combustion, or ping, in higher compression engines. You actually get more energy from lower octane fuel.
 

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You may find this interesting, I did: I watched a program that showed how gasoline is made. It showed the process from underground oil to finished product at the pump. The interesting thing was that the "gasoline" wasn't "branded" (Shell, BP, Scooter's, etc.) until it was pumped INTO the truck. Into each truck, while filling, was blended the chemical "package" that made the gasoline the brand you purchase at the pump. Up until that time, it was clear unbranded petrol.

So, perhpas there is a difference in the chemical package they blend for the folks Down Under.:wtf:
Strange co-incidance,the company i work for has been contracted to fabricate and install new pipe work for the additive system for a Chevron Texaco fuel terminal in the U.K.Shell and various supermarket brands also pull out of there.The fuel is usually shipped from Chevron Texaco Milford Haven or Shell Hamble refinerys.The actual fuel is cross sold between suppliers the only difference is the additive injected into the fuel at point of entry into the fuel tanker normally at a ratio of 1 litre to 1000 litres before it is transported to the garage.The supermarket brands tend to have cheaper additives or none at all that is why they are slightly cheaper at the pump.
 

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I just had a look at the owners manual & it does state that you should be using 95+ octane fuel......
 

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hmmmm - ok, might with 95+ for a little while and see how it goes :)

Thanks for that Dan.

cheers
 

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Different methods of determining octane in different areas. There is Research octane and Motor octane. The USA uses the average ...r+m/2....this is why some people from other countries may get confused when we say we run 89 and your manual calls for 95.

Higher octane burns slower. Running gas with a higher octane then needed can lead to deposits on valves and combustion chamber from unburned fuel residues....especially if you are dealing with the ethanol crap now being added in the USA.

As a rule of thumb, always run the lowest octane possible without detonation.

This does not apply to true "Race" fuels which have oxygenators and other additives that actually can boost power....but at a cost.
 

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Different methods of determining octane in different areas. There is Research octane and Motor octane. The USA uses the average ...r+m/2....this is why some people from other countries may get confused when we say we run 89 and your manual calls for 95.

Higher octane burns slower. Running gas with a higher octane then needed can lead to deposits on valves and combustion chamber from unburned fuel residues....especially if you are dealing with the ethanol crap now being added in the USA.

As a rule of thumb, always run the lowest octane possible without detonation.

This does not apply to true "Race" fuels which have oxygenators and other additives that actually can boost power....but at a cost.
Eddy - that's really good info, thanks for that....I'm going to stay with my regular approach....she runs just fine :yo:
 
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