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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, one of the studs attached to the tank broke off. Has anyone experience this before and how did you replace it? I did not realize how sensitive these are considering you need to put a good amount of pressure to keep the gas from leaking....any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Low torque fasteners.....do NOT exceed the spec and use a good quality torque wrench.

I think your best bet is going to have a really good welder weld on a new stud...I did say REALLY good welder, didn't I??
 

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Actually. You could probably DIY the welding. This stuff looks promising. I bought some but have yet to try it yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCrixbXz4rc

I'm with you on the pain. I managed to snap off a banjo bolt in my FZR's master cylinder while upgrading the brakes. It's amazingly easy to break stuff using standard hand tools. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, I've got a really good welder local to me. He said he'll give it try before he retires fr welding the end of the week. Well known to all the racers here in Los Angeles county.
@theknurl, yes I knew that...however looking at the studs it seems they were already weak in the middle from previous stress from who ever owned it before. I made sure all sides were flat and evenly tighten them progressively.
 

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studly?

m39023;
your posts #1 & 5 kind of contradict each other

the torque on an M6 nut or bolt is pretty standard:)

and since there are only 3 nuts...... and the plastic tanked Brutales have 9 bolts and a different O-ring arrangement
 

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@rchase..good find. Looks simple and easy, worth looking into.
Only two words of suggestion from some reading I have been doing about the stuff and the process of brazing.

1. Practice on some junk parts first.
2. Get a good torch with good heat output. You can weld thin pieces with a propane torch but anything thick requires a lot more heat. Aluminum also has some interesting thermodynamic properties that allow it to move heat quickly.
 

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Your fuel tank is steel.
But I like that stuff, for various other reasons.
Ah. I was unsure of the material and assumed it was aluminum. Unfortunately I'm not sure how that stuff would do on steel.

Here's their site.

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/

Interestingly enough they claim the following. I'm not sure I would want to weld on Titanium without some argon gas shielding.

"for all "non-ferrous" alloys like Aluminum, Cast Aluminum, Die Cast, Aluminum Magnesium, Pot Metal, Zinc, Copper, bronze, Brass, Titanium, Silver, Stainless, Nickel and Anodized parts."
 

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This stuff first appeared back in the 70's...I bought some rods for the shop based on the demonstrations I saw. It was not as easy as they made it look.
I see that they have improved the product from back then, but the "practice first" is damn good advice based on my experience.
Unfortunately, it was expensive when I bought it so that "practice until good" was not a very cheap education.
 

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This stuff first appeared back in the 70's...I bought some rods for the shop based on the demonstrations I saw. It was not as easy as they made it look.
I see that they have improved the product from back then, but the "practice first" is damn good advice based on my experience.
Unfortunately, it was expensive when I bought it so that "practice until good" was not a very cheap education.
Yea. I bought a pound of the material and it was relatively cheap. I have yet to use it but have developed a bit of a fascination with welding. I had a part break on my FZR that's not readily available and found that material and hope it works well. I'm shopping around for an Oxy Acetylene torch so I can burn the crap out of myself for the first time as I myself practice on some broken parts and decide if I can hack it or I need to call on the skills of a professional. I hope I can do it myself and perhaps learn some new skills in the process. :)
 

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stud?

m39023;
probably the best way to fix it, is drill the stud out and tap the hole, then put a bolt in from the inside with red LocTite on it

no scorched paint, and no little bump of weld to keep the shoulder nut from bottoming against the tank flange......the pump flange doesn't touch the tank flange, it stays 1mm away

rchase;
you want to know about welding?
call me.....have a note pad handy

i've been welding for 57 years

:smoking:
 

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Ah. I was unsure of the material and assumed it was aluminum. Unfortunately I'm not sure how that stuff would do on steel.
Jeez mate, for a guy that carries on the way you do about the plastic tanks and build quality of the new bikes vs the old bikes, I would have thought you would at least know what your bike was made of. :) .

It's good to see you want to improve your repair skill, or recommending it to someone else, be very careful welding on a fuel tank, lotsa bad things can happen with not only the fumes, but also the paint. :jsm:

Ha, Noel's got the right idea.
 

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Jeez mate, for a guy that carries on the way you do about the plastic tanks and build quality of the new bikes vs the old bikes, I would have thought you would at least know what your bike was made of. :) .

It's good to see you want to improve your repair skill, or recommending it to someone else, be very careful welding on a fuel tank, lotsa bad things can happen with not only the fumes, but also the paint. :jsm:

Ha, Noel's got the right idea.
Yeah. I missed the part about the "fuel tank". Oopsie. Yeah fuel and paint are a not so great combo.

This thread actually inspired me to break out my virgin welding gloves and get them dirty playing with the HTS-2000 material. It was a humbling experience to say the least. I broke off a piece of a cast aluminum rear set that was a scrap part off of my R6 and attempted to put it back using the HTS-2000 stuff. Tinning the small section that broke off was a cake walk but getting enough heat into the larger part with a propane torch was not an easy task. And heating both after getting them tinned was just not possible with the little torch. A great learning experience however in the weird way aluminum conducts heat. Going to head to the welding supply place and see if I can find an inexpensive torch that puts out a lot more heat and try again.
 

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m39023;
rchase;
you want to know about welding?
call me.....have a note pad handy

i've been welding for 57 years

:smoking:
Noel. I am going to take you up on that offer. But it will be a bit of time before I am ready to drink from the fire hose. Still doing a ton of reading about the different technologies and other stuff.

Interestingly enough a friend of mine inherited an arc welder of some sort from his late father that he wants rid of. I know nothing about the machine other than it's an older mig welder. I'll probably pick it up for the hell of it and hopefully not electrocute myself. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
m39023;
probably the best way to fix it, is drill the stud out and tap the hole, then put a bolt in from the inside with red LocTite on it

no scorched paint, and no little bump of weld to keep the shoulder nut from bottoming against the tank flange......the pump flange doesn't touch the tank flange, it stays 1mm away


:smoking:
Thanks! I will give it a shot. I was thinking of adding some type of gasket between the stud but I'm not sure what type to use that's gas resistant.
 

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m39023;
the O-ring seals the plate, you don't need any other gasket

LocTite #271 will seal the bolt...fill the bolt threads and then add a drop to the hole from the outside
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well guys....I finally found the truth to this damn tank. the surface where the fuel pump mounts into is completely warped! At first I though, well I screwed up with the stud. Then i realized that all studs were already twisted to begin with. Of course this is hard to justify since I have had to mount all three nuts to test for leaks....true but I know how It happened and I know that I was very careful. This isnt my first time working on anything.

Anyway, @theknurl...your idea worked and I'm sure it would have completely be a success if I do it for all three studs. But at this time, I think this tank is done. to use, it be best to bring it over to my welder and have him do a complete buttom rebuild which will cost me atleast $400.00....not too bad I guess?

I can't believe the seller did not make mention of this, considering this guy was or is a racer and is a member of this forum. All he said was that it needed a new O-ring and that it is a good deal....BS!

the purpose of this is to warn you all about a seller here...."varium". Please insure to check his stuff before purchasing. he will claim that all items are in the storage and refer you to look at his PB pictures, which are all vague or unclear. Other items came through with missing pieces which were also not mentioned during the process....but hey, i guess....what ever it takes to sell stuff, right....and his got alots more MV stuff to clear.

not sure if this would qualify in the "review" sections for dealers so I though I'd post it here first.

Be careful and ask for pictures!!
 

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