MV Agusta Forum banner

361 - 380 of 401 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Chuck, anticipating driving down to the local garage to access a 1000Nm rattler, I put the tank back together using the old hoses, AND I've tracked down the proper 1/4" NBR hose as well...I'll put it to use at the next service. Thank you very much nevertheless.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,486 Posts
Just make sure it is nitrile or Buna-N
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
So if you have the grey John Guest fittings on your bike and happen to bugger up the o-ring when cutting the hose off, you are in luck. I know this guy with a Tamburini that might have done this recently and he found some replacement o-rings. 😉

I...um...I mean this guy I know, found that the chemical resistant Viton Fluoroelastomer o-rings With a dash number of 010 from McMasterCarr fit perfectly. I've attached a photo of the invoice that includes the part number.

In all seriousness, if you are in my boat and cut or damage the o-ring on your grey John Guest fitting or if you just want to replace them because of the age, just send me a PM and you can send me a self addressed envelope with a dollar to cover return postage in the US and and I'll send you two o-rings because I have 98 left from my order.

I've attached a photo of the new o-ring installed on the grey John Guest fitting and a pic of my invoice if you want to order 100 for yourself. You want line #2 on the invoice.

Hope this helps someone.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hello all,

I've joined the club of fuel line issues. One of the two lines on the bottom of the tank split. Now I am trying to determine what it is I need to do to get it back on the road.

This 37 page monster started 12 years ago, how are your repairs holding up? Is there now a preferred method to use? I have been getting conflicting information about what quick connectors to get and I have been completely unable to locate the fuel line. Anyone have the cliff notes.

Getting about ready to drag the F4 into the yard and put a bullet in it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,486 Posts
@Bia: I probably have everything you need for your job here in my garage. Send me a PM and tell me which "line on the bottom of the tank" split.

If you haven't been into this tank since new, then you should replace then internal lines and fuel filter, too.

I have all of that and the CPC metal fittings if you want.

Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Also on that same post dated 5-4-11

"PS - These things are constantly changing, so double check before buying, let us know if you find more options."

Just on the first page there is at least a couple different methods to this issue and I am reading information that is 12 years old. It looks like most of the work done in this thread was done inside the tank. Every time I mention replacing hoses someone gives me more things to do and I really don't understand why. What are we trying to achieve here?

Why are some adamant that I change to metal female quick connectors while others say change just the male. At least that is my interpretation of it, mine already has steel male connectors, not sure if they are factory or not.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,872 Posts
@Bia are you Bob's friend that he mentioned to me last night??

Chuck (SilentService703) has listed his phone number in his signature. He's a great guy and knows everything you need to know. Give him a call (at a decent hour of course). I'm sure he can set you on the correct path.

It's really not that complex, and you are right that this thread has been going on forever and contains conflicting or confusing info....too much info maybe.

Chuck has the latest information, as things have indeed changed over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,226 Posts
?

Bia;
Go to page K02 of the F4 parts manual.......this is for F4 1st Gen
You want to connect hose #6 to part #8
You'll need a pair of Clic R pliers to remove the fuel pump plate (eBay ~$13)
Epoxy the 2 ports on the fuel pump plate
Epoxy the 3 notches next to the fuel pump plate mounting studs they are what cut the big O-ring
Remove the fuel cap and the small rubber gasket
Using RTV silicone plug the rear hole in the tank
Replace the fuel cap
Remove the external lines from the fuel pump plate to the side vacuum fittings, cap them with rubber. caps
Change the fuel filter I use a WIX #33012 ~$5 at most auto parts stores
Remount the fuel pump plate put some grease on the big O-ring 1st

Just for you I'll do a how to with pictures and put in my sticky "The Knurl's hack, tips and tricks......."
:grin2:

#6 & #8
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,486 Posts
Noel, Bia's issue is an external line from the fuel rail to the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Bia;
Go to page K02 of the F4 parts manual.......this is for F4 1st Gen
You want to connect hose #6 to part #8
You'll need a pair of Clic R pliers to remove the fuel pump plate (eBay ~$13)
Epoxy the 2 ports on the fuel pump plate
Epoxy the 3 notches next to the fuel pump plate mounting studs they are what cut the big O-ring
Remove the fuel cap and the small rubber gasket
Using RTV silicone plug the rear hole in the tank
Replace the fuel cap
Remove the external lines from the fuel pump plate to the side vacuum fittings, cap them with rubber. caps
Change the fuel filter I use a WIX #33012 ~$5 at most auto parts stores
Remount the fuel pump plate put some grease on the big O-ring 1st

Just for you I'll do a how to with pictures and put in my sticky "The Knurl's hack, tips and tricks......."
:grin2:

#6 & #8

Thank you Noel. If I get off into the tank I will use that information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
After doing the bottom o-ring ..twice...it is now time to do it again. I don't even ride that much anymore yet she still give me crap.

Anyway, McMaster Carr stuff held up for 2 years before peeing all over my garage.

Does anyone know of a good alternative to the $30 OEM o-rings, the really large ones on bottom that seal the entire assembly , for the 2000-2009 models?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,486 Posts
@Snake_EYES: What year and model is your MV? I have the o-rings. $5
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,226 Posts
?

Thank you Noel. If I get off into the tank I will use that information.
Bia;
If you do it my way, this is all you'll have in your F4 tank
And to change a fuel filter, you just undo 3 nuts and the pump comes right out
Way easier:wink2:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Bia;
If you do it my way, this is all you'll have in your F4 tank
And to change a fuel filter, you just undo 3 nuts and the pump comes right out
Way easier:wink2:
The O-ring in the pic, I see 8-10nm in the diagram.

Does anyone know, the 3 nuts that hold the ENTIRE assembly, they are 8-10nm? seems like a lot considering you tighten it down and the entire thing "sinks" down.. I think I am over tightening..

Never gave it any thought until now.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,872 Posts
The O-ring in the pic, I see 8-10nm in the diagram.

Does anyone know, the 3 nuts that hold the ENTIRE assembly, they are 8-10nm? seems like a lot considering you tighten it down and the entire thing "sinks" down.. I think I am over tightening..

Never gave it any thought until now.
Yes...the torque spec on the fuel pump flange nuts is 10Nm.
 
361 - 380 of 401 Posts
Top