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come on Paul keep out contamination????? and prevent rust????? of a counter shaft nut?????

Jogort, you follow the Factory instructions about only putting sealant on the cam cutouts on the valve cover gasket????

you KNOW that will make it leak!!!!
 

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Just replaced my chain and sprockets.The front sprocket nut was very tight and held with Loctite.
I had to carefully grind down one flat of the nut,then the nut split and I was able to remove it.
No need to be that tight with a lock tab.
Thanks again MV.:frown2:
 

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Just replaced my chain and sprockets.The front sprocket nut was very tight and held with Loctite.
I had to carefully grind down one flat of the nut,then the nut split and I was able to remove it.
No need to be that tight with a lock tab.
Thanks again MV.:frown2:
Another question. Are you purring the bike in 1st and holding down the rear brake? Any chance you can mess up the transmission if it is engaged in 1st and you end up moving it while trying to loosen the nut?
 

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Any reason an impact driver (air or electric) cant be used?
 

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Putting the bike in gear is not required. The chain is coupled front sprocket to the rear sprocket...tire on the ground, impact wrench...removal.
 

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Noel's right transmission in neutral.
I had my wife:thewife:sitting on the bike with her foot hard on the rear brake.
3/4 drive socket with a 3 foot breaker bar and the fucking nut still did not budge.
Guys complain about the rear wheel nut,wait till they attack this nut.:frown2:
Out with the angle grinder and precision grinding like a surgeon,one flat of the
nut removed, it unscrewed almost with my fingers,then I threw the nut as far as
I could into the bush swearing at MV.:wink2:
 

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Mitch, I’ve never had a problem using an air impact on those nuts.
 

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True Chuck.
I forgot to bring my big muther impact gun home,so I had to make do with what I had available.:wink2:
 

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A trick that Bruce Meyer's showed me was to simply apply the torque, hold it in place...and wait.

We had some difficulty removing front disc bolts that were probably galvanically corroded in place. He put the appropriate hex on the breaker bar, put a load on it in the direction of removal, and simply held it there util we heard a "ting". Each of the bolts was removed in the same manner.

Some took thirty seconds, some took several minutes; all were removed with undue stress.
 

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A trick that Bruce Meyer's showed me was to simply apply the torque, hold it in place...and wait.

We had some difficulty removing front disc bolts that were probably galvanically corroded in place. He put the appropriate hex on the breaker bar, put a load on it in the direction of removal, and simply held it there util we heard a "ting". Each of the bolts was removed in the same manner.

Some took thirty seconds, some took several minutes; all were removed with undue stress.
Chuck;
Absolutely no professional mechanic would do it that way!!! Because they won't be making any money, takes too long:wink2:

If I think they are galvaniced, I put a brass hammer on the bolt head and smack it with a steel hammer.....that breaks them loose

Or of course you could use the basic tool in every motorcycle mechanic's tool box an impact screwdriver,
mine is a SnapOn PIT-120

On my stuff I don't worry about it, because I use boat trailer bearing grease on every bolt on my vehicles
The zinc plated modern bolts galvanic far more than the old cadmium plated ones

My CP 3/8 " butterfly air impact does everything on my MVs except wheel, sprocket, CS and clutch hub nuts
The 1/2" CP does them......If I go somewhere with no air I take my baby Swench Wrench......it's ~400lbft>:)
 

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Chuck;
Absolutely no professional mechanic would do it that way!!! Because they won't be making any money, takes too long:wink2:
Well, in order to get paid, a Professional Mechanic must get the job done without damaging the customer's bike.

We were at the point where the choices were to try this, or use heat. As the wheels are painted, heat was not going to be good option.

It wasn't just corrosion...there was a touch of loctite. MV isn't he only manufacturer to make things challenging.

Do you know who Bruce Meyers is?
 

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I've done many different things with challenging counter shaft and axle nuts when I had my dealership.

The brass hammer, continuous torque, impact wrenches, heat, penetrating fluids, etc.

For what it is worth - it became very clear that thread cleaned/chased and lubed/anti-seized fasteners correctly torqued and kept free of debris and free of corrosion was never a problem. Not once that I can remember.

But for all the other times... these things kept me sane - Top quality Snap-On impact, breaker bar, angle grinder, Map gas torch, 3 lb hammer, a sharp chisel, a Snap-On extractor & cutter kits and a can of Coke.

With these items almost any difficult fastener was eventually going to succumb to my insistence. Cheers all
 

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Losing my mind here. Just cannot get the fucker off. It's been a week of me trying and I swear Im going to dislocate my shoulder if I push any harder (and Im a decently fit person!).


impact wrenches, penetrating fluids,
Dont own an impact wrench, so I will rent one. Anything specific about it other that it be a 1/2" one?

Thanks!
 

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Any auto service station will have a 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench, tire stores too
Take your bike there and your 55mm socket, call first, have them remove the nut

The tools for removing MV, wheel, sprocket, clutch hub and countershaft nuts
The funny looking tool is a Swench Wrench, puts out ~ 400lbft of torque
The tie down strap goes through the wheel and the foot peg mount to keep the wheel from turning :wink2:
 

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