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Discussion Starter #1
Did a search, but came up with nothing can someone tell what's the torque on the large nut that holdes the front sprocket?

thx!
 

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I couldn't find it in the manual either, but I did have it in my track notes:

Front sprocket 140 Nm, 103 lb-ft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Say is the counter shaft reverse threaded?



lizzardo said:
I couldn't find it in the manual either, but I did have it in my track notes:

Front sprocket 140 Nm, 103 lb-ft.
 

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insider said:
Say is the counter shaft reverse threaded?
I'm nearly certain it's not. There should be enough threads sticking out past the nut to verify that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lizzardo said:
I'm nearly certain it's not. There should be enough threads sticking out past the nut to verify that.
just a little bit of the first thread - i wanted to be certain before i put a big pipe to it... could not impact it off... over 210nm applied on a wrench...
 

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insider said:
just a little bit of the first thread - i wanted to be certain before i put a big pipe to it... could not impact it off... over 210nm applied on a wrench...
I'm pretty sure I used an impact gun when I last removed the front sprocket on my 750. Haven't needed to yet on the 312. Still, I'm almost certain it's a regular thread. Someone else should be able to confirm. Somebody? Don't make me go out to the garage and take the cover off just to check. I'm willing to do that, but it'd be nice to not need to.
 

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It would make sense to be regular right hand thread, as the acceleration forces would tend to tighten the nut. I can't remember any modern bikes with left side output that don't use right hand threads.
Left hand threads are usually only used where dominant forces would loosen a right handed thread (rear wheel nut as example).
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So no luck! I used an expanding vice to apply pressure to the rear brake pedel, set in first gear, used and 32mm 6 point impact socket - 3 inch extension, 1/2 inch breaker bar 4 feet car jack pipe... Counter clock wise - all I managed to do is to turn the engine over...

My compressor is getting it's engine rebuild so no Ait tool, but I'm still using a Ingersoll-Rand W360 cordless that can deliver 360ft/lb in reverse... This f'er just won't come loose... I tried torch, wd40...

I noticed that the counter shaft sprocket nut is peened on two sides.



There aren't much threads to show which way...












Ideas? Bigger impact wrench?
 

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Thing I don't understand is that MV recommends to use threadlock on that nut, doesn't make sense, none of my bikes had that in the past (jap and Triumphs) I can see why it's hard to remove.

You could try TIGHTENING it a tiny bit to break the threadlock before attempting to unscrew it.
It's a regular thread by the way
 

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If there is thread lock on the nut (and even if not, and just very tight) try using a propane torch to warm up the nut (you don't need to get it red hot!!). This will melt the thread lock compound and also expand the nut slightly on the shaft. Good luck.
 

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esq'z me said:
If there is thread lock on the nut (and even if not, and just very tight) try using a propane torch to warm up the nut (you don't need to get it red hot!!). This will melt the thread lock compound and also expand the nut slightly on the shaft. Good luck.
My recommendation as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did that... Torched it for 60 seconds and still won't move - going to take it to a buddy's to get some air power

thx all,


esq'z me said:
If there is thread lock on the nut (and even if not, and just very tight) try using a propane torch to warm up the nut (you don't need to get it red hot!!). This will melt the thread lock compound and also expand the nut slightly on the shaft. Good luck.
 
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