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Discussion Starter #1
I can feel and hear a slight click when the front goes over a bump...say, the curb to my driveway. Imagine somebody tapping a pen once on a table is the closest sound I can think of.

Also, I can hear it if I PURPOSELY rock back and forth on the bike when it's compressing...don't hear with on rebound...just on the initial compressing, it makes a click noise.

Forks aren't leaking anything, so no blown seals that I can see atleast. Front end feels a LITTLE squishy, but it may just be my imagination. Could it be the triple/headbolt being slightly loose? how often is that the case? I really don't feel like buying a $70 tool for something I use so sparingly...anything that can be used instead?

As for the rear, I can't hear it with my helmet on, but if I hop on it in say my garage, I can hear it squeek on both comression and rebound. What/where do I lube to rid this sound? Nitpicky, and something most wouldn't notice...I know, but I have OCD aout this kinda crap :laughing:
 

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My friend had a similar noise on his 1000 and it turned out to be headstock bearings needed nipping up, you really need some kind of centre stand to check them properly
 

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I was just about to say the same thing!

Tighten your steering head!

As for the rear.... it'll polly go away. New parts moving, make a little noise at first.
 

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It could be the bearings or something loose within the forks. Like Mike says, jack the bike and check it out. It will be easy once you get the bike in the air. If it is the bearings, the $70 for the tool will be much cheaper than the alternative.

Here's an easy way to lift the bike. Roll the bike onto a ramp to get the front end in the air then hang the bike from the rafters with tie-down straps and pull/slide the ramp out. If you don't have a ramp you can easily make one form some scrap lumber. I prefer to "hang" the bike as opposed to using a stand as it gives much more room to work and you can get at everything - brakes, fork, wheels and tires... With the F-4 you'll need to pull the bodywork to get the straps around the frame.

A little silicone spray should take care of the squeak.
 

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Where can this $70 tool be purchased and what is the torque spec?
 

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Reasons why the front can make noise over bumps that maybe you didn't think of:

The fender is loose
The brake line isn't clipped into the clips on the fender
The discs are just making a bit of noise

A quick way to know if the bearings are really loose is to turn your wheel sideways, hold the front brake, and rock the bike forward and back, but shove your finger between the frame and the top triple. You'll feel clicking through the bike from the floating discs, but if you feel movement back and forth with your finger, then they are loose. They could still be marginally loose without feeling any movement, but I don't know if it would be so obvious when you go over bumps.

Mine loosened up a little at one point and I had them tightened.
 

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JamesC, is this something I can do myself? You wouldn't happen to have a pic of this tool would you???
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can tell now it's actually a lose headbolt. I get feedback on smaller bumps i.e. it's very very gradually getting looser. My damn wrench isn't here yet...
 

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I got a adjustable pin wrench ($3.99 at Harbor Freight Tools) and it work great. I had to suspend the front end so there's no tention and then tightened the bolt. I didn't have to take off the triple clamp either.
 

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Harbor freight comes through!

Most of their stuff only lasts for a few uses though...

For instance, their safety wire pliers will work for a short time, then break. But I suppose buying a set of $7 ones 2 or 3 times is still better than spending $75 or whatever the good ones run.

Now I gotta go over there and get one of these things.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
ddnuts said:
I got a adjustable pin wrench ($3.99 at Harbor Freight Tools) and it work great. I had to suspend the front end so there's no tention and then tightened the bolt. I didn't have to take off the triple clamp either.
Getting a refund on my $60 tool...time to goto Harbor freight for that tool, as this seems like something you'de use only RARELY....so even at a one time use, it's still better than $60...



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36554

I think with that tool though I'll have to take off my top triple because of the handle bar....crap.... :bawling:

Ah well....
 

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Easy way to check steering head play is to add front brake while rolling the bike forward and backwards. You should be able to feel and see the tripple trees move.
 

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oicdn, you should be a stickler. I don't know about your bike, but I didn't have to take the triple clamp off. I just had to turn the clip ons side to side to get in there. Hope you get it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
you can't...if you look at the pic, after you remove the bar, you can see the risers are on both sides of the nut. You can't get to the top or bottom because of the gauges and tank.... You MIGHT be able to get it with the bars turned full left/right and get at it diagonally.

The only way you can get to the nut with just taking the bars off and not touching anything else is with the tool here:

http://www.corsair-industries.com/html/mv_agusta_triple_clamp_nut.html
It's a socket type...also, it would be easier with that tool cause you can attach a TQ wrench to it to TQ it properly. But those guys never answer eMails...so I'm not just sending them money without eharing anything from them 1st...

The on eMoto sells (wrench type) is great and all you would really need...if you have an F4 and the nut is easily accessible...
 
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