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Discussion Starter #1
Just had my first ride on the bike.
Em not to sure really, had a few fuel issues to start with, and gear selection seams vague to say the least.
Also found the front brake a bit week and the steering a bit twitchy, this could be the clip ons.
It might be I only went about 250 yards up the road and my first time on a bike with opposite controls.
I could not sort neutral and first to second well.

So after all that effort I feel a bit down so have parked her up in the garage with the others and decided to have a coffee before I decide what to do?
That said there are still a few things to do to finish it.


 

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Stick with it Phil!

They need a fair amount of de-bugging and re-commissioning to get right.

You can always bring it up to me and we can compare it with mine.

The gearchange issue is nearly always external and they are a bit twitchy untill you get used to them. Turn the damper down a few clicks.

The clutches can be a fit funny if they haven't been uesed in years like yours

The front brakes are an aquired taste, especialy with original linnings!

Cheers.

Dorian.

ps; Looks good though mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dorian.
Felt like I have been wasting my time. Will have another go later in the week after I've had the front brake apart. Good thing is it sound fantastic.
 

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That's the spirit!

I imagine yours ahs it's original brake linings. They either grab like crazy and have you off or there just not very good.

Make sure there set up OK with both shoes coming on at the same time. If still no good will need a reline.

Have fun!

Dorian
 

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Opposite controls: no problem! You'll get used to that. It's like us Europeans driving on your wrong side of the road. We also get used to that. Well sorta :naughty: Just kidding. You'll be okay :)

Trouble finding neutral: since I'm never 100% sure mine is in neutral, I'm always careful with the clutch - stopping at traffic lights etc. And I need to kick the lever as if it were a raw egg otherwise I'm already in gear. Treat it with care, works well that way.

Trouble going from 1st to 2nd: could be cos you only did 250 yards. It's all still cold. It's usually way better once properly warmed up.

Fuel issues: don't know, could be something very simple.

The steering shouldn't be twitchy. That's right.

Like Dorian said: don't give up now :)
 

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Opposite controls: no problem! You'll get used to that. It's like us Europeans driving on your wrong side of the road. We also get used to that. Well sorta :naughty: Just kidding. You'll be okay :)

Trouble finding neutral: since I'm never 100% sure mine is in neutral, I'm always careful with the clutch - stopping at traffic lights etc. And I need to kick the lever as if it were a raw egg otherwise I'm already in gear. Treat it with care, works well that way.

Trouble going from 1st to 2nd: could be cos you only did 250 yards. It's all still cold. It's usually way better once properly warmed up.

Fuel issues: don't know, could be something very simple.

The steering shouldn't be twitchy. That's right.

Like Dorian said: don't give up now :)
250 yards? Gosh hard task master :eek: - agree with Dorian & oepie's post.

As for fuel - if it hasn't run for that long, the carbys/feal lines could probably do with a decent clean out - with my 350 (Ago Tribute) bike after pretty much 15 years of stagnation, I completely rebuilt both carbs (needles, jets etc - parts easily available from the Dellorto mob in the UK) and I replaced all the fuel lines - the difference is shall we say "significant" :)

Good luck, I am sure you will get it to your liking with some persistence, patience and love.

From experience, if you don't have have at least two of those three attributes it will be an unhappy relationship you've entered into.:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
250 yards as it felt bloody dangerous! We have other road users in the uk.. ;-)

Dorian
Front wheel removed last night and cleaned up some rust where the bike has been sat. This has been cleaned off and the shoes have been deglazed. I hope this will improve that area.
Where do I buy new shoes or do I have to get mine relined and if so who does it?

MVista
the carbs have both been striped checked and rebuilt with new float needles filters and gaskets, one needed a complete choke slide and the other had casting cracks in the float bowl top.
The tank has been cleaned by filling with stones and rotating in a cement mixer. Bothe fuel taps striped and cleaned, found to have rust blocking both reserve ways these have been drilled out as have the main ways too.
Reading Dellorto supplied the parts as they do for my Darmah and Lambrettas.
The problem I'm getting is it dies under load. Drop the throttle and it picks up agin then drops again etc etc.
Got me stumped.
oepie
You know it is the rest of Europe who drive on the wrong side of the road ;-)
Could it be the wrong engine oil I have put 15/40 in it?
As to the controls I know its the fact its my first time doing it after riding bikes for 30years.
Maybe that is the problem there.

So to sum up I was just a bit disappointed after all that work. On top of the terrible UK weather.
 

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The problem I'm getting is it dies under load. Drop the throttle and it picks up agin then drops again etc etc.
Got me stumped.
Check the fuel cap seal is allowing the tank to breath enough. I recall having a similar problem when I first started testing mine after restoration and had to mess about with it.

My front brakes a woeful and the rear's are less than progressive, I really need to check the fronts out again.

Good luck.
 

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I agree with Rob. Check the fuel lines too.
Story about my Centomila: one day I walk into the bike shop in my village, can't even remember what for. The guy sees the classic outside, says: cool! but your fuel lines are bad material blabla. I'll replace them. It was 1 euro or so. I head back home. When accelerating hard, the engine dies. Strange, never did that before. Kickstart, engine starts immediately. Few hundred yards later, same story...
To make a long story short: the idiot at the shop put fuel lines on that were narrower than the original ones. It simply didn't get enough juice. I put the correct size fuel lines back on and never had any trouble like that again.

The oil is not the problem having done only 250 yards.You could ask what Dorian or Rob put in their 350.
And you should really ride at least 20 miles or so.

Do you live in the countryside or something? Every time I'm in the UK, somewhere rural, I'm always amazed by how fast the Brits drive on those narrow, winding roads. Some of you guys are nuts. Or maybe I can't drive...

The weather is sorta improving but it's really taking its time this year. I was out working in the garden yesterday. Sunny, dry, 23°C so very nice weather you'd say but that damn 20+ knots wind spoilt it a bit for me. It's raining again today :(
 

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Same here with finding neutral. However, after a while you can 'hear' when you're there. Of course, I always release the clutch very carefully when I think I hear that.
 

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:laughing: Yes granted 250 yards is probably a much bigger distance in the UK than it is in Australia. :laughing:

As to the question of oil - I always use the best quality oils that I can lay my hands on - I like Penrite here in OZ it is an Australian company, I have used it in my cars & bikes since about 1985 without any problem at all. But that's merely my preference, between good quality high end oils I think there is very little difference, so it becomes merely a preference. Of course, with wet clutches you need to avoid oils with 'friction modified' properties as they will cause clutch problems, mainly slippage.

I use a mineral oil 20W/50 - I like to use mineral oils for bikes from the mineral era and synthetic oils for the modern bikes, you can of course use the correct synthetic oil in the older bikes quite happily. Again with many of these things it comes down to preference and your own peace of mind.

However, I live in a much warmer climate than you & I don't know given snow, ice & freezing temperatures (as I have no experience) whether you may need an oil with a thinner viscosity like a 15W/40 or even a 10W/30 for winter use. Something you can no doubt discuss with Dorian & other Northern aficionados who know the cold :)
 

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Is a bilingual can help me for translate?

Pour mon expérience avec ma BE. Je mets de l'huile minérale 20 w 50 de marque, du haut de gamme (Motorex - Elf - Total - etc ...)

Je laisse chauffer la BE 5 minutes sur sa béquille pour avoir une bonne montée de température du moteur, et je pars tranquillement pendant 2 ou 3 kilomètres en passant les vitesse vers 5000 tr/mn, sans forcer. De toute façon, la moto rechigne à prendre plus de tours, même en cinquième

Au bout de ces 3 kilomètresl le moteur se libère, et je peux rouler plus fort sans problème, sa vitesse de croisière est de 110 à 120 kilomètres/heures sans problème. Et des fois quand les conditions le permettent, elle prend 150 allègment ...

Quand je pars trop vite ou que le temps de chauffe est trop court, la moto est difficile pendant tout le roulage, et là je ne la force surtout pas

Depuis peu mon frein avant "talonne" un peu. Je pense qu'un nettoyage et un réglage arrangera le phénomène

Dans le temps on détalonnais les garnitures. C'est à dire qu'on faisait un léger angle à l'endroit où la garniture attaque le tambour en premier. Cette solution améliorait grandement l'efficacité du freinage

Le passage des vitesses est assez rugueux mais passe facilement même de la première à la seconde, et vérouille bien. Au début j'avais des problèmes pour me mettre au point mort à l'arrêt. Je passais le point mort directement à partir de la seconde en arrivant sur un arrêt comme un feu rouge ou un stop. Aujourd'hui, comme je l'ai lu plus haut, je trouve un point mort aisément. Mais c'est parfois un faut point mort. Pas de problème, ni pour la boite de vitesse ni pour l'embrayage

J'ai les carburateurs dellorto carrés (VHB) de 24 montés sur ma moto. Quels carburateurs as-tu ?

Cordialement

Xavier
 

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My wife did French at school & at university when she was young and was considering becoming a languages teacher - one day it dawned upon her that being in calssroom full of children would be a fate worse than death & subsequently became a lawyer - her auntie lives in La Tour-Du-Pin near Lyon.

So here is our collaberation in translation - we hope that it is close, the part that is highlighted we had difficulty with and translated verbatim (word for word) -it is diffucut to follow in English maybe someone else can help with that. :)

From experience with my BE. I use mineral oil 20W 50, I choose brands from the top of range (Motorex - Elf - Total - etc...) I allow a warm up for the 350BE of 5 minutes on its stand - to get to operating temperature of the motor, and I then depart at a gentle pace for 2 or 3kilometres working towards 5000 rpm, without forcing it. Anyway, the bike is reluctant to take more revolutions, even in fifth.

At the end of these 3 kilometres the engine is nicely warmed up and freer, I can now ride harder without problem, its cruising speed is 110 to 120 kilometres/hour without problem. And the times when the conditions permit, I can take it to 150...

When I go too fast or do not allow a proper warm up period, the bike is difficult during the early part of the ride, and I do not force it.

Recently my front brake "talonne" (can't make out but we think "weakened") a little. I think that cleaning and adjustment will correct this problem

In time we refurbished/adjusted the linings. This is to say that there was a slight angle at the place where the shoe contacted the drum. This adjustment greatly improved the effectiveness of the braking.

The shift is pretty rough but changes easily even from first to second and it is stopped. At the beginning I had problems finding neutral when stopped. I spent the break-even point directly from the second arriving on a judgment as a red light or a stop. Today, as I have read above, I find a dead easily. But it is sometimes a point must be dead. No problem, nor for the box for the clutch or speed

I have Carburetors square dellorto (VBH)24 fitted to my bike. What carbs do you have?


Cordial regards
Xavier
 

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Lambretta You got many good advises here already.
And sure 250 yards is nothing to get comfy with a new ride.
Many miles made You feel comfy on bicycle were You was young.
The 350B is handling like a bicycle in a way, compared to what else in Your shag.
With the time You will adapt to handle the bike but it takes a few tours.
Sure the 2LS drums on the 350B is quite a lousy performer.
The drum of mine was even oval and needed to be machined.
Sure new linings on the shoes will make the brake work better.
But only with time, because even the new linings will need to be bedded.
Dieing under load could be caused by many things.
Starting with carburation to ignition and electrics.
If it idles well and dies under load that sounds to me like it is to lean.
But here You can look into the Dell'Orto manual and learn how to adjust everything.
Sure this starts with petcocks clogged or the floater could be leaking.
Dell'orto UK has even glass bowls to check the fuel level.
But google for the Dell'Orto guide and download it in pdf.
I would like to attach it here but my digital copy is 3MB.
Dorian and the others are damned right with their advise.
The clutch is mostly not disengaging enough and so You will find neutral only if You are still rolling.
I think I never found neutral on my 350's till Today, or if just by luck.
So posing on the bike standing at a traffic light is somewhat foolish if You find neutral not before stopping.
Warm it up, rev it up, flip through the gears, let it run and enjoy the flight.
The 350B is shining brightest on open back roads.
 

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My wife did French at school & at university when she was young and was considering becoming a languages teacher - one day it dawned upon her that being in calssroom full of children would be a fate worse than death & subsequently became a lawyer - her auntie lives in La Tour-Du-Pin near Lyon.

So here is our collaberation in translation - we hope that it is close, the part that is highlighted we had difficulty with and translated verbatim (word for word) -it is diffucut to follow in English maybe someone else can help with that. :)

Hello you two, thank you for your cooperation. It is not easy to translate the terms of the technical jargon or the jargon of motorcycle riding ...

The translation is excellent, despite the word for word, and seen from here with a delicious and nice English accent. :) Merci M'dame !

From experience with my BE. I use mineral oil 20W 50, I choose brands from the top of range (Motorex - Elf - Total - etc...) I allow a warm up for the 350BE of 5 minutes on its stand - to get to operating temperature of the motor, and I then depart at a gentle pace for 2 or 3kilometres working towards 5000 rpm, without forcing it. Anyway, the bike is reluctant to take more revolutions, even in fifth.

At the end of these 3 kilometres the engine is nicely warmed up and freer, I can now ride harder without problem, its cruising speed is 110 to 120 kilometres/hour without problem. And the times when the conditions permit, I can take it to 150...

When I go too fast or do not allow a proper warm up period, the bike is difficult during the early part of the ride, and I do not force it.

Recently my front brake "talonne" (Back cutting) (can't make out but we think "weakened") a little. I think that cleaning and adjustment will correct this problem

In time we refurbished/adjusted the linings. This is to say that there was a slight angle at the place where the shoe contacted (in first) the drum. This adjustment greatly improved the effectiveness of the braking.

The shift is pretty rough but changes easily even from first (gear) to second(gear) and it is stopped. At the beginning I had problems finding neutral when stopped. I spent the neutral point directly from the second arriving on a red light or a stop. Today, as I have read above, I find the neutral easily. But it is sometimes a "middle" or "false" neutral gear. No problem, nor for the gear box or the clutch

I have Carburetors square dellorto (VBH)24 fitted to my bike. What carbs do you have?


Cordial regards
Xavier

Thanks again for your help, and a to a lesser but useful measure http://www.the-burgund.com/trad_cadre.htm

Appel de phare

Xavier
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks chaps for all the replies hope to give it another go over the week end as i've looked at the brake and straightened out a bent rod on the gear linkage.
Will let you know how it goes, I will try to get up to 500 yards and get into 3rd gear.. ;-)
 

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Thanks chaps for all the replies hope to give it another go over the week end as i've looked at the brake and straightened out a bent rod on the gear linkage.
Will let you know how it goes, I will try to get up to 500 yards and get into 3rd gear.. ;-)
Great! :yo:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well what a pile of _____(insert your favourite expletive).
Just pushed it out onto the road. Third kick and the starter lever decides it wants to slip apart and get its self jam'd under the foot rest. Pushed back into the garage and find we have no spark...arrrrgh.
At least it was sunny so went out on the SX200 starts every time..who wants a 350 sport?
 
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