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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally!


Ive asked a bunch of questions since getting this thing like 8mo ago and finally rode it about an hour ago!
If this forum and its members didn't exist or wasn't in my language id have given up and sold the bike off before now!
I especially appreciate the extensive help ive got from Dansoarr in helping me deal with the ecu and ecu studio which is user-unfriendly.


So...
I took it for a 20mile spin trying to scrub the tires in do some hard pulls for break in and bed the rear brake pads first but the bike was killing the engine everything id try to manually rev match for a down shift and did a weird rpm auto blipping rev thing when trying to take off from a stop so I came back home and got Dansoarr on the horn and ended up having to turn off the blipper on the ecu. took it back out and was shredding on it for another 20 miles until my front fender vibrated the bolts on the right side completely out and the left side had 2-3 threads left! I managed to limp it home but now looking for new bolts and going to loctite them. It still has crappy throttle response when blipping for downshifts and the clutch does this weird thing like it jerks forward in your hand like somethings going on inside the basket when you pull it in but the throttle is smooth on/off no bucking which is great, won't have to worry about the soggy throttle on downshifts once somebody sells me the blipper sensor


Observations
-The abs on normal is total shit. running on race its still pretty bad but still useful, NOTHING like my Ktm, ducati or zx10 was. at least I can turn it off
-my exhaust with the db killer sounds heavenly, especially with a QS, haven't taken the baffle out yet and don't intend to unless at the track.
-the front brake master cylinder is total shit. same issue as my new gsxr 1000 and many other bikes, have an rcs19 on the way for the gsxr, will put one on this if it lives up to my expectations
-rear brake feels good, you can tell its heat soaking from the pipe and back/side of block so im going to shield/insulate it
-bike is WAY more comfortable than I thought, my rear sets ended up being lower than original even on their highest setting so im sending them back and getting something else
-my rear shock feels ok I suppose, need to soften the compression a few clicks
-oem forks seem way to fast in comp & rebound but at maximum they are probably close to ideal
-bike feels lighter but honestly, not dramatically lighter or quicker steering than the gsxr 1000, just a lot shorter and thinner. Not complaining but im not wow'd either. im also on DSC SC1 & sc2 tires not the junk that was on their either
-gearing feels a little tall, running a 180/60 rear as well, a -1 might fix it also part of a 520 conversion for some weight and reduce losses.
-Feels like it needs more RPM, like another 2k
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-power is honestly, underwhelming. In my mind I was expecting this to be making around 130whp today with the race exhaust, race filter & "kit" ecu flash, it "feels" about the same total speed as my zx6r's and r6 were and they were approx 110whp. This needs to be addressed!!!!!

Overall, its a very pretty bike, it needs the chassis setup better, lower gearing and I guess a custom dyno tune at this point. I got a very good deal on the bike but it stills needs another 2k or so into it and its already significantly more $$$ than my new gsxr 1000. One of those cases of terrible value proposition but hopefully the happiness ratio is better. Its definitely different than the gsxr in the fact I can put down 100% of its power on these country back roads and really exercise the bike.




Have 2 track days coming up, the 2nd & 18th, seems like both the gsxr & mv will be ready in time. need to get the blipper on the mv as how it is now will be locking up the rear wheel.

Need to get another 60 miles on it so I can change the oil & filter and tighten the chain before the TD's.
 

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Think the bump you feel from the clutch basket is the slipper engaging. Its a sign that the blip isn't right. You can feel it if blipping manually as well. Normal slipper behavior.

Your tune still needs work obviously. Stock F3 800 is way more powerful than a zx6r and r6.

Good to at least see you got it together and road worthy!
 

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You should definitely get the suspension tuned for your weight, it will make a noticeable difference. I also agree on the front master cylinder (OEM is Nissin) that it leaves a lot to be desired. Admittedly this is one part I still have on my bike, but with summer coming and me taking a break for a few months, I'll also be replacing it with the RCS19.

Mine is the 800 so I can't really comment on the performance you are noticing, but I do know that once I got mine to the track I was impressed at how nimble this bike is, even in stock config. I hope you will be too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You should definitely get the suspension tuned for your weight, it will make a noticeable difference. I also agree on the front master cylinder (OEM is Nissin) that it leaves a lot to be desired. Admittedly this is one part I still have on my bike, but with summer coming and me taking a break for a few months, I'll also be replacing it with the RCS19.

Mine is the 800 so I can't really comment on the performance you are noticing, but I do know that once I got mine to the track I was impressed at how nimble this bike is, even in stock config. I hope you will be too.

I had a custom tuned ttx36 on it and im 160-165lbs so I should be right in line for the front forks spring rate, going to run it hard tomorrow and see if I can get some stuff tweaked a little better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Took it for a real rip yesterday, put in fresh 93oct and just rode it like I stole it. Must have been the 9mo+ old gas that was in the bike from when I bought it, they probably put 87-89 in it since they are a off road utv market. Felt like it was making all the power it should have this time, bike rips above 10k, really has a "hit" at the 10k mark as well. Didn't get it up to its top speed but did a bunch of 150-155ish pulls, not sure what it would do all out, seen some vids indicating 173ish. if thats the case I think -1 +1 should chop off 13mph and make it much crisper in the 70-130 range which I spend all my time


if anyone has the blipper sensor I need PLEASE reach out to me I need it ASAP

have 32mm front sag and 25mm rear on the ohlins. dont have the remote adjuster so idk how to adjust it with that hydraulic tiny silver half nut thing?
 

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Time to get the manual out....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Time to get the manual out....

Why would that be in the manual? they don't put ohlins on these

and of course, no manual came with the ohlins and nothing online says anything about adjusting without the 400$ add on hyrdualic hand knob
 

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Why would that be in the manual? they don't put ohlins on these

and of course, no manual came with the ohlins and nothing online says anything about adjusting without the 400$ add on hyrdualic hand knob
Erik, like just about all rear shocks you need a C spanner and it can be very tight / difficult to get in and adjust it, which is just one reason why the remote or hydraulic adjusters are so popular. My ohlins have always come with a little booklet and Spanner, even those with the remote adjusters. The remote adjusters have a limited adjustment range, so you need to adjust their position to suit.
@silentservice703 suggested getting the manual out, he's 100% right, it might not be the MV manual, but ohlins do explain it in their manual see page 8 in the link below.

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/documents/2015/04/OM_07242-01.pdf

Sometimes (especially with MV) you need to research and read the documentation a little deeper to find the info you need. Sometimes its not always where you expect it, hence we all spend time reading and learning.

Sounds like no blipper for the 2nd, maybe the 18th? Clearly a blipper helps but you can prevent the rear locking with the slipper clutch and manual throttle and clutch control.
 

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Ive got a slipper clutch on my 2012 and dont have the locking up issue. I have become quite proficient in the throttle blipping thing. Once I get my blipper activated (ECU studio arrived, just waiting for adapter cable for the 5v from MV) it should be even better. Inst the blipper more for clutchless downshifters rather than not locking up the rear wheel?

Go one tooth down on the front and one up on the rear with a 520 chain and the gearing will feel much better.
 

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Exactly that, the blipper is used to make the downshift seamless as possible.

If you downshift very badly and don't rev match you can cause a lockup on bikes without a slipper clutch. Even those with a slipper clutch can still lockup depending on how the slipper is setup, and how much contact and weight is on the rear tyre.

I raced a gsxr 1000 without a slipper and pre-blipper days. That teaches you clutch and throttle control, feathering the clutch to control slip and prevent lockup. Ah those were the days ��.
 

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Took it for a real rip yesterday, put in fresh 93oct and just rode it like I stole it. Must have been the 9mo+ old gas that was in the bike from when I bought it, they probably put 87-89 in it since they are a off road utv market. Felt like it was making all the power it should have this time, bike rips above 10k, really has a "hit" at the 10k mark as well. Didn't get it up to its top speed but did a bunch of 150-155ish pulls, not sure what it would do all out, seen some vids indicating 173ish. if thats the case I think -1 +1 should chop off 13mph and make it much crisper in the 70-130 range which I spend all my time


if anyone has the blipper sensor I need PLEASE reach out to me I need it ASAP

have 32mm front sag and 25mm rear on the ohlins. dont have the remote adjuster so idk how to adjust it with that hydraulic tiny silver half nut thing?
I've done a -1, +1 520 conversion on my 675 makes it a completely different bike. couldn't recommend it enough, also the Brembo RC19 increases the stopping significantly
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Erik, like just about all rear shocks you need a C spanner and it can be very tight / difficult to get in and adjust it, which is just one reason why the remote or hydraulic adjusters are so popular. My ohlins have always come with a little booklet and Spanner, even those with the remote adjusters. The remote adjusters have a limited adjustment range, so you need to adjust their position to suit.
@silentservice703 suggested getting the manual out, he's 100% right, it might not be the MV manual, but ohlins do explain it in their manual see page 8 in the link below.

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/documents/2015/04/OM_07242-01.pdf

Sometimes (especially with MV) you need to research and read the documentation a little deeper to find the info you need. Sometimes its not always where you expect it, hence we all spend time reading and learning.

Sounds like no blipper for the 2nd, maybe the 18th? Clearly a blipper helps but you can prevent the rear locking with the slipper clutch and manual throttle and clutch control.



That manual on page 8 is incorrect. There is absolutely no way to adjust preload the old fashion way, I have plenty of shock spanners from previous bikes and cars, this has no collars to adjust... the bike even w ecustudio blipper turned off still won’t allow me to rev for a downshift *unless* I’m on the throttle *before* pressing the clutch in. If the clutch is engaged then it disallows my throttle input. So only way to downshift when going fast and going down around 10k to the lower gear is to not attempt rev match at all and just downshift and be gentle with the clutch which isn’t great. Trust me I rev match like a pro. The bike won’t allow me, it will not allow the rpm to increase. If I remove rd the clutch lever switch sensor then the bike would never think I opened the clutch and I imagine it would then rev as requested in its current confiruration. Turning off the blipper function in ecustudio did fix the weird 1st gear pulling away issue and the other weird throttle thing but can’t increase rpm with clutch in in a 1second time frame. If I pull it in and wait 2full seconds it will rev to whatever but not in the normal shifting timeframe




*the first pic you can see the hydraulic fitting nub type thing for the preload I imagine


 

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Mate you need to post a pic of a shock controls.

The manual is not wrong it's one of the options. You did not say you have a hydraulic preload adjuster. There should be an adjuster to turn.

Post a pic of your shock controls and people can help.
 

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Erik,. A quick Google shows you the adjuster you seem to have.

Where did you align this when you fitted the shock?

Look for the ttx manual for your shock, you have the part number save us guessing for you. Or any ttx36 of the correct generation with YOUR options like the ap360 the answer is on page 7.
 

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Time to get the manual out....
Why would that be in the manual?
@silentservice703 suggested getting the manual out, he's 100% right, it might not be the MV manual, but ohlins do explain it in their manual see page 8 in the link below.

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/documents/2015/04/OM_07242-01.pdf

Sometimes (especially with MV) you need to research and read the documentation a little deeper to find the info you need. Sometimes its not always where you expect it, hence we all spend time reading and learning.
This explains it in a nutshell. If you are going to take apart and modify a motorcycle, no matter how much "knowledge" you have accrued, there is always something to learn by reading the component information. The link listed above is easily found and, when, or if, I install the Ohlins TTX rear shock for my Brutale 1090RR (it's sitting on a shelf in my garage), then you can bet your bottom dollar that I will read the manual first even though I have played with Ohlins shocks before.
 

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With respect to the blipper issue, have you read the translogic sensor guide, under the support pages for MV on Ecustudio? You will need to register if you have not already done so under the contact page.Go through the steps it details to make sure you are set up correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
went thru my folder and no trans logic sensor guide. It does say mv agusta on the QS itself if there is a varying supplier based on years. Why would I need to register the QS anyways?
I did mention early on that there is no way I know how to adjust mine without the 400$ optional hydraulic adjuster and nothing suggests how to do it manually and certainly I don't want to break it by just cranking on that tiny nub with a pair of pliers, if it is even able to be turned without the help of hydraulic force...

I didn't adjust anything on the aforementioned nub, I ordered it custom valved and sprung for my exact setup and just threw it in. I then set sag on front and the rear, well I couldn't adjust so I rode it and made adjustments to all the comp/rebound both ends and got it working very well, at least as well as you can on the street, so Ill be likely pretty close at the track and go from there, other than id like faster turning response so lowering front or raising rear would help. ran the steering damper on minimum and had zero head shake coming hard out of rough/patchy/chunky pavement in 2nd gear corners. Bikes running great just has a few really bad but otherwise "simple" fixes that need sorted
 

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Erik,
The adjuster you have is the hydraulic one, just not the remote adjuster option. The hex is what you use, see ohlins manuals. This is also where they connect the cable that adjusts it. The adjuster is just a flexible drive, nothing else. All the advantage mechanism is in the gray lump on your shock.

Dug the R1 out to show you, just an 8mm socket no real torque required < 8Nm.

You don't have to register the QS.

What I said or ment too, was have you registered on the support page with ecustudio? (Via the contact page). Once registered you will be able to see under MV Augsta a page called translogic QS. This explains the wire codes and how to run a datalog of the QS. Based on those values it tells you what settings you need. (Translogic are the OEM suppliers for the 1.0 and 2.0 sensor)
 

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