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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings folks,

Thought I would share my recent round of paint repair on my F4 750.

My bike had several scratches on the red sections which I finally had a good go at.

I touched up using a match pot, stone chips which were down to the primer by adding a blobs of paint which when dry were slighty higher than the original paint then used Tcut on a soft smooth cloth wrapped around a hi-ligther pen(it was the right shape) to bring the touch up paint down. The unvarnished paint is softer and is easy to rub down.

The result is that the paint touch up blends perfectly level with the original surface. But the Tcut cream took the shine out of the surrounding paint.

At first I thought I had damaged or gone through the clear coat.
I took it to a local and very good paint shop and they very easily fixed it using farecla G3 professional scratch remover(and didn't even charge, they liked the bike). They just dabbed some on a cloth and rubbed the areas.
I was told not to use Tcut as the ammonia in it can damage my paint.

Anyway I was so impressed with the Farecla product I bought my own and have used it to remove several deep scratches that have bugged me for ages.

I did this by hand not using a polishing machine using just a soft cloth wrapped around the same pen as before.

None of the other scratches were thorough to primer and have been removed completely or are now so shallow that they are very hard to spot. I even used it to remove a scratch on the red plastic rear tail light lens, worked a treat.

Very impressed with this polishing cream, easy to use, didn't even have to wear gloves.
 

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Nice tip...I need to look for that product here.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Not sure if will be easy to find in stores, I went to auto shop and they had heard of it and could order in, it's more likely to be something a professional uses, Ebay is probably the easiest and cheapest?

Here is a review: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/86280/car-scratch-removers-2016-group-test

I used a flat none fluffy soft cloth and a block with rouned edges to keep working on very specific areas at one time, before a more general rub, all the time applying plenty of the liquid/cream.

Here is what it looks like in it's typical professional size bottle: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Farecla-G3-Ultra-Abrasive-Cutting-Compound-1-litre-Superb-Shine-no-Silicone-/201635581554?hash=item2ef26ace72:g:0ioAAOSwbsBXljlH

I just polished off then used Autoglym polish, then wax, paint work comes up like glass, so did the red rear light lens.

I have toyed with the idea of getting an electrical polisher, but was warned by the professionals that you need to know what your doing, it can go wrong. Whilst I could go further I would only be taking down the clear coat further, by not doing the entire paint work I leave a thicker layer of clear coat on the bike, which gives me more room for maneuver against wear and tear and future repairs.

Edit: seems to be sold in different bottles with different sizes and colours, for public and professional use.
 

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Excellent tip.
 

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Thanks for the tip, I've just ordered a 500ml bottle from Fleabay, AU$24 including postage from UK.

It won't fix the dent I put in the Minister for War and Finance's Mini Cooper Roadster when my Brutale tipped sideways off the stand but thats another story. Thankfully the Mini saved my MV from hitting the concrete although she who must be obeyed doesn't see that as a positive. Women are strange creatures at times!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thankfully the Mini saved my MV from hitting the concrete although she who must be obeyed doesn't see that as a positive. Women are strange creatures at times!
I had a go at my paint because after owning my F4 for 6 yrs I fell off in a petrol station. I had a fight with the side stand and lost.

Amazed at how very little damaged I did to her, but I think she may have landed some what on my leg as I tore a knee ligament(it's healing fast but I had to use a long handled spoon down my leathers to slid them off my knee for 2 weeks).

Still in this case rather me than damage to the Italian mistress eh, and after the repairs inspired me to fix the paint work she is now looking better than before I dropped her.
 

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Doesn't appear to be sold in the USA.
SMS in Massachusetts carries the brand, but doesn't list the "Scratch Remover"
The farecla G3 web site has a stockist locator for the UK and shows Halfords as a primary.

Amazon lists it but "Currently Unavailable" and no price??

Found the 500 ml bottle for £9.99 on eBay with an additional £7.99 shipping to the USA.
 

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Do I presume correctly that you use an electric polisher, if so how easy are they to use without it going wrong?
The hand glaze is more aggressive and is for hand use. The machine for DA's and orbital polishers.

In theory it is very hard to go wrong with a DA, but the orbital gives a better finish on big scratches/swirls.

With a high speed orbital you can do a fair amount of damage. I would go with a DA, 3M glaze and then finish off with some paint correction.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The hand glaze is more aggressive and is for hand use. The machine for DA's and orbital polishers.

In theory it is very hard to go wrong with a DA, but the orbital gives a better finish on big scratches/swirls.

With a high speed orbital you can do a fair amount of damage. I would go with a DA, 3M glaze and then finish off with some paint correction.
Thanks for the advice, looks like you have to think about what your doing, I suspect some don't and just jump right in without research.

Although I am confused with the term DA? and hand glaze? which is the G3? It seems to be used by machines and hand?

When you say finish with paint correction, which I presume you mean literally paint touch up, you still have to blend in that correction right, after doing the major polishing? Wouldn't you do the 3M glaze last?

Don't know if I am being thick, but this whole conversation would be easier in person than in type.

I must say that my paint for a 16yr old used bike and now on it's 7th owner is very nice, but it could be better, is it worth the risk of taking the clear coat down further to make it near perfect. She gets alot of compliments about looking new.

I have been toying with idea for years of getting the paint done professionally.

Also do you have to buy a special polisher for bikes, or just get a small head/polisher?

6 years ago I didn't know about pulling back on the bars after putting the side stand down, resulting in the bike falling over several minutes later.

The result was a short deep scratch on the tail where she must have just kissed the wall.

I called out one of those mobile paint specialists who thought it would be very difficult to repair. I was lucky in that the clear coat was thick enough for me to have recently polished it out, may be I took a risk? but the result is very pleasing to have finally removed that eye saw without a full respray.

I don't think the idea of using a block on a specific area occurred to him, which is interesting as he was a professional paint repairer, or thought it too risky?
 

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D/A refers to Dual Action...the machine can simply turn in a direct circle, or in random-orbital fashion, thereby replicating hand motion.

The compound listed above can be used by hand or with a nice DA unit.

The key is LIGHT pressure and check your work often.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for that silentservice703.

So where is a direct circle, or in random-orbital fashion applicable, ie why the two settings?
As my Grandad once said; "he wants to know every bloomin detail"
 

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A direct circle will remove material faster and it will leave very distinct swirl marks.

The random orbital will remove material slower and should not leave swirl marks.

Having both in one machine allows versatility when doing preparation work and then switching to finish work.
 

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...it's Material Science!:nerd:
 
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