F4S turn signals
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13,695 Posts
That helps. We know your SPU is not on it's way out.
Start at the bulbs. Make sure there is no corrosion on any of the contact points. Work your way toward the harness checking all the connections.
Do you have the stock turn signals or are they been replaced with led's?
Start at the bulbs. Make sure there is no corrosion on any of the contact points. Work your way toward the harness checking all the connections.
Do you have the stock turn signals or are they been replaced with led's?
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1,114 Posts
alright.
first off check all the bulbs. they should be 10W bulbs. these can be tricky to come by and are sometimes swapped out for 5w bulbs which causes timing problems
second check the torque on the two bolts holding the nose fairing. if these arn't done correctly the connecters to the turn signal dont line up properly
third. check your connections
i'm sure some others will pop in with some things to check but my best guess is that if its not the bulbs it will be the relay (these are on the left hand side of the bike under the fairing.) a number of people have had these fail (myself included- twice). you can get OEM replacements or there is an aftermarket replacement from NAVRA that has a better service record.
first off check all the bulbs. they should be 10W bulbs. these can be tricky to come by and are sometimes swapped out for 5w bulbs which causes timing problems
second check the torque on the two bolts holding the nose fairing. if these arn't done correctly the connecters to the turn signal dont line up properly
third. check your connections
i'm sure some others will pop in with some things to check but my best guess is that if its not the bulbs it will be the relay (these are on the left hand side of the bike under the fairing.) a number of people have had these fail (myself included- twice). you can get OEM replacements or there is an aftermarket replacement from NAVRA that has a better service record.
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385 Posts
I just installed a clear alternative integrator and it don't flash properly. Doni need to use resistors?
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1,114 Posts
yes probably. these resistors get VERY HOT so if you use them you need to keep them clear of pretty much everything. they will melt your plastics if they come into contact with them.
a better alternative is to replace the OEM relay which is a solid-state (bi-metallic strip) for a digitaly controlled one. NAVRA make a good alternative but i forget what the part number is
a better alternative is to replace the OEM relay which is a solid-state (bi-metallic strip) for a digitaly controlled one. NAVRA make a good alternative but i forget what the part number is
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1,389 Posts
Bobby I have the resistors from my clear alternatives in the garage that I didn't use. PM if you want them.
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6,025 Posts
Upper fairing support bracket locating nipples
The first thing you need to do is check that the upper fairing supports have both the small pips still in place at the bottom of the fairing supports?
To do this you will have to take the upper faring off!!
The most common reason for indicator faults is that when the upper fairing is taken off and then replaced is that the small nipples on the bottom of the fairing mounting brackets get busted off (There should be 2 on the base of each upper fairing bracket.
This damage is very common and is often caused by over tightening of the long screws that secure the upper faring.
It causes the electrical connection to the mirrors to be miss aligned and then the indicators only work spasmodically
This problem is easy to fix, but make sure you check this out first!!
:smoking:
To do this you will have to take the upper faring off!!
The most common reason for indicator faults is that when the upper fairing is taken off and then replaced is that the small nipples on the bottom of the fairing mounting brackets get busted off (There should be 2 on the base of each upper fairing bracket.
This damage is very common and is often caused by over tightening of the long screws that secure the upper faring.
It causes the electrical connection to the mirrors to be miss aligned and then the indicators only work spasmodically
This problem is easy to fix, but make sure you check this out first!!
:smoking:
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307 Posts
This problem is easy to fix, but make sure you check this out first!!
:smoking:
[/quote]What's the best way to fix this ade?
Drill the brackets and put in new pins?
I know i'm responsible for breaking one of the little buggers... but i lay blame on others for the rest.
Stiv
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6,025 Posts
Easy cost effective repair to make this problem better than new.
Drill the brackets and put in new pins?
I know i'm responsible for breaking one of the little buggers... but i lay blame on others for the rest.
Stiv[/quote]
What's the best way to fix this ade?
Drill the brackets and put in new pins?
I know i'm responsible for breaking one of the little buggers... but i lay blame on others for the rest.
Stiv[/quote]
Where the pins have broken off it will have left a visible scar,
I have simply drilled the brackets and then screwed in a shortened (thread about 6mm and shanked) allen screw 4mm in diameter (I think!) most of the ones I have done have even cut their own thread into the bracket too as the bracket is made of a soft alloy.
You only need to have about 5-6mm of thread on the allen screw.
Make sure you don't drill right through the bracket (Not that its the end of the world in you do anyway) and once screwed into place up to the shank of the screw using a bit of loctite, carefully cut the shanked part of the allen screw off screw off so all that you should now have visible is the peg in essence leaving about 3-4mm protruding.
Finish the job by rounding off the edges of the newly fitted peg using a small needle file and there you have it
:drummer:
This home made peg will never break off and providing you are careful it will stay put and not deteriorate if its made from a stainless steel allen screw.
Just remember to make sure the shank of the allen screw you intend to use is a nice fit in the reciprocal socket on the electrical plate.
$70 saved immediately and the job will last forever and no more indicator hassles
Just be very careful when you go about this job and don't rush it, make sure you are able to grip the fairing mount securely without damaging it too.
Its really no big deal just some care is all that's needed.
I hope this helps some of you make a cost effective repair, and always check both these pegs are in place whenever removing the upper fairing.
NEVER
over tighten the long screws that locate the upper fairing as this is the prime reason for these pegs breaking off in the first place, as the long upper fairing mounting screws (1 on each side) go into the electrical plate at an angle, effectively pulling the fairing brackets forward against the pins.
I have simply drilled the brackets and then screwed in a shortened (thread about 6mm and shanked) allen screw 4mm in diameter (I think!) most of the ones I have done have even cut their own thread into the bracket too as the bracket is made of a soft alloy.
You only need to have about 5-6mm of thread on the allen screw.
Make sure you don't drill right through the bracket (Not that its the end of the world in you do anyway) and once screwed into place up to the shank of the screw using a bit of loctite, carefully cut the shanked part of the allen screw off screw off so all that you should now have visible is the peg in essence leaving about 3-4mm protruding.
Finish the job by rounding off the edges of the newly fitted peg using a small needle file and there you have it
:drummer:
This home made peg will never break off and providing you are careful it will stay put and not deteriorate if its made from a stainless steel allen screw.
Just remember to make sure the shank of the allen screw you intend to use is a nice fit in the reciprocal socket on the electrical plate.
$70 saved immediately and the job will last forever and no more indicator hassles
Just be very careful when you go about this job and don't rush it, make sure you are able to grip the fairing mount securely without damaging it too.
Its really no big deal just some care is all that's needed.
I hope this helps some of you make a cost effective repair, and always check both these pegs are in place whenever removing the upper fairing.
NEVER
over tighten the long screws that locate the upper fairing as this is the prime reason for these pegs breaking off in the first place, as the long upper fairing mounting screws (1 on each side) go into the electrical plate at an angle, effectively pulling the fairing brackets forward against the pins.
Joined
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6,025 Posts
Joined
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6,025 Posts
Make sure the rubber plugs are also located correctly
The little rubber connector indicator plugs both front and rear can be problematic too!! Always make sure they are correctly pushed together.
:idea:
I use spit so they slide in nice as and will seal again afterwards, if you use WD 40 or silicone grease etc they are likely to pull apart again.
There is a line on the outside of both rubber plugs (male and female) to show exactly what the correct position should be before pushing them together.
:idea:
I use spit so they slide in nice as and will seal again afterwards, if you use WD 40 or silicone grease etc they are likely to pull apart again.
There is a line on the outside of both rubber plugs (male and female) to show exactly what the correct position should be before pushing them together.
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