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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, So I have 400 miles on the bike and have gotten in a couple of decent rides that aren't freeway/ around town/ break in miles. I am a little restrained since it is still breakin but the 9K rpm roof gives enough range to ride at a more spirited pace.

Right now, the bike is stone stock. I haven't set-up the suspension at all. Everything is as delivered. For anyone who may be familiar with the area, i rode Salmon falls road which is a short twisty road which rolls through the foothills of El Dorado, CA. Weather was beautiful, sunny and 68 degrees F. The pavement is mostly smooth with a few bumps but in generally good condition. Curves are a bit on the slower side with some tight 15-20mph, 90 degree curves and some medium speed sweepers. No real long straights or anything high speed.

The good:

I have to reaffirm this is one of the best chassis I have ever ridden in stock form. Steering is light and transistions are quick. Chassis behavior is very neutral with no bucking at all. Best of all is the on-the-gas behavior of the bike. It holds its line very well and feels very solid.The motor is nice above the 5K rpm mark and pulls nicely. The overall ergos are very nice, although the dished seat makes me stretch a little to the bars (I like to sit up towards the front of the tank).

The bad:

At 400mi I really have grown annoyed at the 5Krpm surge. To best describe it I would say it feels like a lean surge at 5k. Unfortunately at a street pace, the 5K surge occurs right at neutral throttle mid-corner. The problem is that once you set your line and set-up for the corner the bike surges making you correct your line. Around town I don't think this is much of an issue but for faster paced riding it is an annoyance.

The brakes... They actually work well but the play in the lever makes it somewhat difficult to trailbrake into the corner. I like a firm lever where you can trailbrake with one finger. With the stock mastercylinder it is a bit more difficult, you have to run it in harder in the corner and get on the brakes harder to trail brake in. Again, an annoyance but I would definitely like to fix it. The rear brake, well I think it's just for looks I will adjust the rear master to see if it improves.

The suspension. As delivered it is a little harsh particularly in the rear. Ive been kicked out of the seat several times from bumps. I am sure this can be adjusted out, but i thought I would mention it. A quick look at the front and there is not enough rebound in the forks. I'm sure I can back out on the compression to improved ride quality. The initial portion of the travel seems ok so I doubt the preload is to far off. I really think the suspension can be dialed in without major rework.

My last annoyance is a bit of buzzing. At 5k RPM there is something on the tank that is rattling/buzzing. I think it is the key guard but I will have them look at it. Also the bars buzz at around 5-7K rpm making my hand go to sleep a little when just tooling around. Oh and my tank sings when the bike is off, so I will have them check the fuel tank vents when the first service is done.

I know my bad list is a lot longer than my good list but overall I am very pleased with the bike. I am really glad to be back on the I-4 from a twin since it feels more like the two stroke I am used to. The geometry is well set from the factory and there are actually few things I want to change. The first mods I will do will be to get the reverse shift drum kit installed with the first service. The RG3 Ecu will be next followed by a radial mastercylinder. I think the bike is pretty well sorted and doesn't need a ton to make it great. I am very happy otherwise.
 

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Nice write up. Let me know if your suspsension setup is on the factory "firm" setting. That's the setup I've used to "fix" my bike. My only difference is I just went one turn less than the factory stiff setting on front preload and one turn more than stiff on the rear. Pretty happy with it.

For the buzzing, try the key guard, mirrors, and windscreen. I found a some looseness on those bolt.

I'm not sure if the R can take a Power Commander but from what I've heard, that's helped the S models.
 

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(quote) At 400mi I really have grown annoyed at the 5Krpm surge. To best describe it I would say it feels like a lean surge at 5k. Unfortunately at a street pace, the 5K surge occurs right at neutral throttle mid-corner. The problem is that once you set your line and set-up for the corner the bike surges making you correct your line. Around town I don't think this is much of an issue but for faster paced riding it is an annoyance.(quote)

I find it only bothers me when i'm going medium quick, when i'm "on one" I don't notice it

Rob, don't waste money on a Power Commander, it does help but the cause of the 5k surge is ignition timing, don't find out the hard way like me, just fit RG3 and RG3 ecu-problem sorted 100%.

I had a similar problem with the brakes, for me the cure was to get the lever to come further back to the bars, someone kindly sent me the ally adjuster out of a broken lever and I machined it down to allow more lever travel.

The buzzing on mine was the front fairing aganist the headlamp, I fixed it by removing the fairing and sticking some self adhesive foam were the fairing sits on the headlamp glass.

Nice bike though eh :)
 

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Nice review thanks for sharing.

I did not get a chance to ride mine a lot will report latter.
Singing in tank is cooling vents for gas tank. Try adjusting your levers to reduce the play it helped me. I have the same buzzing sound but not all the time and 5k surge is there no doubt I will find out how bad it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Allan, once I get the sag set I will most likely try softening it up a little. I need to first put a zip tie on the fork legs to gauge travel. most of the problem seems to come from the rear though. I like the suspenders on the softer side but I will post up what I like. Biggest problem I have now is I am scheduled for surgery on thursday and won't be able to ride for 4-5 weeks. I came home from my ride on sunday afternoon and cleaned the bike and put the cover on it. It's kind of sad.

Mike, I will most likely go the RG3 ECU route. I need to recover from buying the bike and get the first service taken care of before dropping more coin. Gotta keep the wife happy by controlling how much I spend on the bike. As far as the brakes I like the lever out away from the bar. The OEM levers have too much freeplay for my tastes so that makes it a bit more difficult I may turn down a new adjuster and see how that works.
 

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I haven't adjusted mine but on Sunday's ride it feels like a bucking bronco through some of the bumpy bits!

I suppose I should record the number of clicks etc as to where it is now and then start experimenting?? Is that the way to go?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
gazman said:
I haven't adjusted mine but on Sunday's ride it feels like a bucking bronco through some of the bumpy bits!

I suppose I should record the number of clicks etc as to where it is now and then start experimenting?? Is that the way to go?
Yes, start with a baseline setting (record the oem settings), set the sag and then experiment adjusting one clicker (i.e rebound only or compression only) at a time to see what changes it effects. I have a procedure I like to follow when doing initial set-up. I am basically waiting for the parts to wear in a bit before I get to fiddling.
 

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RobP said:
Yes, start with a baseline setting (record the oem settings), set the sag and then experiment adjusting one clicker (i.e rebound only or compression only) at a time to see what changes it effects. I have a procedure I like to follow when doing initial set-up. I am basically waiting for the parts to wear in a bit before I get to fiddling.
This is how I sorted mine...............with forks to match, don't be fooled by what looks like a low rear ride height on the adjuster, the shock was originally made for my 750 and is longer than the std shock
 

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I have a Brutale, but I will throw in that it took about 1200 miles for the suspension to really break in. It's much more compliant now while still staying up in the stroke. I think a lot of the harshness reported in MV Agusta suspension is related to break-in, especially since many riders may take a great deal of time to pile on the miles necessary to truly break it in, given that the bikes are used sparingly.
 

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FSL said:
Mike do you think just swapping to race ECU with stock pipes would help a little :ahhh: ? Have you changed your mid pipe?
Yes, I have changed my mid pipe as well, mmmmm race ecu and std pipes? I would expect it to run a little rich, it would fix the 5k surge of that I have no doubt, mind you, why not try it with the race ecu and std exhaust, then if it doesn't work properly it's a good excuse to buy the RG3 exhaust as well :naughty:
 

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Thanks Mate,

I am just having a hard time justifying the cost behind the whole deal. Is it worth it?

Cheers.
 

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FSL said:
Thanks Mate,

I am just having a hard time justifying the cost behind the whole deal. Is it worth it?

Cheers.
No!! :jsm: :naughty: we shouldn't need to go to these lengths just to get the bike to run correctly, we should take them back to MV and tell them 2 stroke type power curves on a 1 litre 4 cylinder motorcycle are NOT accepatable at all............but...........I doubt they would be too interested :stickpoke they would just say that is how the bike is designed :ahhh:

If you want the bike to run flawlessly, I'm afraid at this moment you have very little (read no) other options available
 

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Hi Mike4UK, how you doing?, I won't ask hows the weather or hows the cricket.
Anyway, as you know I have an S and test rode the R. Yes it has a nice step at around 5k in the power, I thought it was just because it was a racier tuned model? I have noticed the new Japs bike are having a similar power curve. Some testers like it some see it as a step back. I had a ride on an 07 R1 at the track on Tuesday and it very similar in feel to your R power and peolpe say it is great. I was told by the Yamaha guys that the new bike was designed to meet ever more stringent pollution laws in Europe. To keep simialr power outputs something must give. For track use no problem, for road use they can appear peaky, which is odd to say for a 1000cc bike.
Don't know what the answer is. I quite like my S on the road but the R definately felt racier depends what you like. I don't know if chasing around trying to modify it will do much but I could be wrong.
By the way at the track a local magazine was testing a new 1098 against an R1 so that will be a good comparison, let you know when it comes out in 2 weeks.
Oh the crickets back on, bugger the Pom's are having a crack...better go.
 
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