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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Evening everyone

I have replaced the well nuts so thanks for the heads up on that one, They were literally about to fall into the engine. unfortunately I got a bit too adventurous and took the fairings off, Whilst I was down there I noticed that I have a small oil leak from the left hand side of the valve cover. Having searched lots of forum posts I could not see any mention of a decent parts supplier in the UK, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could get a new Valve cover gasket and O rings?

If anyone in the UK is looking for a supplier of M5 Rivnuts and the relevant bolts for the Wellnut replacement I can point you in the right direction.

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:yo:
 

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Welcome to the forum mate. Which F4 have you got ? There's a couple things to consider when you see an oil leak up there.
Try StarTwin for gaskets and seals, looks to me like that oil is coming from higher up, might be the O-rings around the bolts holding the valve cover down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Donsy, I think is a 2007 1000R 312. it was registered in 2009 and it has 312 either side of the tail peice but its only 1000cc not 1078. I had a look on Startwin and the parts are pretty cheap so I will get them ordered, is it worth ordering any other upgraded parts ie upgraded water pump and slave cylinder?

This is mine:



Are the parts highlighted yellow on this diagram the ones I need?

 

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Good work Darryl. Okay, you have the 1000, the 312RR is the 1078cc model. Better water pump is available from Design Corse, not cheap, but great product, and not sure if you need that in the mellow'ish UK climate.
Have a look through the forum, and you will see it's better to get an aftermarket clutch slave when yours start leaking rather than another OEM part.
Read this section and the tips - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=137
Enjoy the bike.
 

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?

Darryl;

you don't need a gasket or O-rings

clean the head, valve cover, gasket and O-rings with lacquer thinner or acetone

then using RTV silicone gasket maker, coat BOTH sides of the gasket with a VERY THIN coat of the silicone, use your finger tip

DO NOT follow the stupid Factory way of only sealing the cam cutouts

seal the whole damn thing:naughty:

now holding the bolts upside down, drop on an O-ring and smear silicone into the O-ring groove with your finger tip

install

if your slave is leaking, disassemble and inspect the bore for roughness and the seal for wear.....

the seals are available from automotive brake rebuilders, its a 1 3/16" M/C seal, Toyotas and GM products use them


Darryl ...... sources
http://www.mvagustauk.net/forum/showthread.php?19-sources-and-tips/page2
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah cool I,ll order some sealant as well. I've already ordered the bits from startwin but if I'm honest I don't fancy tackling this job so I,ll get my local mechanic to do it. The biggest obstacle for me is not knowing how to remove the airbox/ tank etc to get to the valve cover.
 

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My valve cover is leaking pretty badly after checking valve clearances. (Noel told me not to do it but I couldn't help myself, I wanted to see what was going on in there!)

It is definitely leaking out of a couple of the valve cover bolts, and pooling around the LH corner of the valve cover gasket (the common spot) even though my bike has been on the rear stand the entire time. I can't tell if it is ALSO leaking from the valve cover gasket, or only from the bolts. Since I know it is for sure coming from the bolts, I want to seal them up and see if that solves the problem, rather than pulling the whole cover off again if I don't need to.

now holding the bolts upside down, drop on an O-ring and smear silicone into the O-ring groove with your finger tip
Trying to follow these instructions to make sure I do it properly, but not understanding. Do you mean to smear sealant on top of the o-rings already seated in their grooves on the valve cover, or putting a thin smear of sealant around the underside of the flange around the top of the bolt?
 

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Well, it's been awhile since the brains of this outfit has corrected me so I'll take another shot since you have no other responses.

I would disconnect the coil wires from the wiring harness so you can rotate and lift each one out of the valve cover.

You'll want to remove the pools of oil at the front of the head before installing the new gasket.
 

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just did this

I am trying to remove the valve cover but the ignition coils are fowling the frame, how do you get them out?
Just went through this on a Brutale. Disconnect wires, and as you pull the coils out, you can rotate them and they also have a bit of flexibility so you can bend them slightly to work them out.

I highly HIGHLY recommend draining your coolant and removing the coolant expansion tank, radiator, and thermostat housing. It's easy enough to get the valve cover off through the throttle body side, like the service manual says, but it is much much easier to get it back ON properly if you all that space to work with at the front of the bike. It sounds like a lot, but if you have the mechanical ability to remove the throttle cables and bodies anyway, pulling the radiator and stuff off will be relatively quick and easy.

I ended up having to redo the whole job because I only removed the throttle bodies the first time, and because of the poor access at the front of the bike, did a crappy job of getting all the pools of oil out, cleaning the head, and getting a nice thin clean layer of sealant down along the front. After reinstalling the valve cover and assembling the whole bike, it leaked tremendously. Took it all back apart, this time also removed the radiator, and it was a breeze to clean all the surfaces and get the valve cover sealed on nicely. No leaks (also sealed the valve cover o-rings this time around, cause my bolts were leaking too).
 

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you do realize there is a specific sequence to tighten up the bolts on the cover,its in the Manual,Strange but i have taken mine of 3 times and no leaks,i did not remove the gasket at all ,just lifted it out of its groove.

all the best
 

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you do realize there is a specific sequence to tighten up the bolts on the cover,its in the Manual,Strange but i have taken mine of 3 times and no leaks,i did not remove the gasket at all ,just lifted it out of its groove.

all the best
I did not realize this. It's nowhere in the workshop manual, but after you brought it to my attention, I did find it in the engine manual. This two separate manuals thing still gets me.

I didn't follow that exact pattern, but did start from the center and criss-cross tightening things incrementally. I don't know what I did wrong this time but I don't think I have the motivation to take everything apart to try sealing it again.

This is what Eddy's referring to:
 

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That is a standard criss-cross spiral torquing diagram. It is how things are traditionally done.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think I might throw the towel in and take it to my local dealer, I really don’t want the hassle of refilling the cooling system having heard all the horror stories about trapped air etc. Annoyingly having taken the bike to bits and getting the coils out its only leaking from the front left half-moon and the location pictured in my initial post. There is no oil whatsoever in the plug apertures, what I do find surprising is how far the oil has managed to travel, I can only assume its hitting the manifold and forming a fine mist.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I should have mentioned that the gunk in the background running down the valve cover from the top was not oil it turned out to be gum like residue from the well nuts in the air box breaking down which I have now replaced.
 
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