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Discussion Starter #1
Help!!! I am new to MV motorcycles and to this forum but not to motorcycle maintenance. I have a 2001 Ducati 996. I have never had any trouble with the Ducati maintenance. I recently bought a 2000 F4. I am in the process of doing periodic maintenance. Most of the intake valves are tight. In the process of removing the cams one of the hex heads rounded in a socket head cap [email protected]#$&!!! I was using a 5mm Craftsman hex bit on a 3/8 ratchet the hex was fully engaged. These screws seem to be very tight. Any advice would be helpful!!! Also where is the best place to find torque specs for the engine screws and bolts?? It seems the engine section is missing from the service manual on this website. :bawling:

Thanks!
Tracy
 

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I think what you did is common. Some of these bolts are made out of cheese, and when you loctite them there isn't much that can avoid this. Seems like this happens on Ducatis once in a while too...

I haven't had to adjust my valves yet, they checked out OK so far (8500 miles).

There is an engine manual floating around somewhere. I know I have it on my machine at home but I'd have to look.

I'm guessing that the torque for that is going to be the same as any other similar bolt. If it's an M6, it probably will be the same as most any other M6.
 

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acruhl said:
I think what you did is common. Some of these bolts are made out of cheese, and when you loctite them there isn't much that can avoid this. Seems like this happens on Ducatis once in a while too...

I haven't had to adjust my valves yet, they checked out OK so far (8500 miles).

There is an engine manual floating around somewhere. I know I have it on my machine at home but I'd have to look.

I'm guessing that the torque for that is going to be the same as any other similar bolt. If it's an M6, it probably will be the same as most any other M6.
Goto the articles section...the ENTIRE WORKSHOP MANUAL BY CHAPTER is posted there. I have the entire Brutale one saved to my HD..
 

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I didn't find one that had torque settings for engine bolts and nuts?

The manuals there cover everything except the engine pretty much.

There is an engine manual floating around somewhere. It has info on rebuilding the engine. I'm not sure if it has torque settings.

It looks like someone scanned it and then made a pdf out of it, so it's different than what I see in the articles section, unless I'm missing something.
 

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There is a separate Engine Workshop Manual for MV. I don't beleive the enigne workshop manual is posted online.

I have both the Workshop and Engine Workshop manual in print.
 

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awiner said:
There is a separate Engine Workshop Manual for MV. I don't beleive the enigne workshop manual is posted online.

I have both the Workshop and Engine Workshop manual in print.
Not posted, but it exists. Someone scanned it I think. I have it in a pdf but I believe it's all images, not text.

I'll see if I can find it.
 

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i take it the allen key doesn't fit the bolt anymore?

maybe you can weld a throwaway allen key to the bolt. that's a pretty common trick to get a rounded bolt off. it may work for this case too...

alex
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you!!! I taped off all the exposed parts and drilled the head off while my wife held the buseness end of the shop vac close to the screw head. After that the rest came out with my fingers. The screw was very soft (easy to drill). Now I just need a new screw. Thanks for all the help!! This Forum is the best!!!!!! These screws had to be over torqued if the spec is only 12 Nm.

Regards,
Tracy
 

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Ok, I found the engine service manual. It's a rather large pdf and I'd like to post it somewhere if possible. I suppose people can download it from my machine with rather slow ISP service if they like, but I'd prefer not to post a link directly to it.

Also, it's for the 750 Oro bike, so there's probably a bunch of stuff on the 1000 that's different.

Send me a private message if you want it, and I must ask not to make the link public. I'll be changing it soon after anyway though...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all again for the help!! Special thanks to Andy. The information you provided was the most helpful. I think I have all the info I need now. Has anyone else acctually done a valve adjustment on their F4?? I am interested in what tools were used to torque the front cam retainer screws. My ratchet and hex bit will not fit between the screw head and frame.

Tracy
 

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acruhl said:
James, is there any reason to do this other than to replace the chain and gears?
You'll need to remove the cams if you're replacing shims. I haven't done it on my MV yet, but having studied the engine manual, it appears the process would be similar to my Falco. On that bike I had to remove the cam sprockets from the cam shafts. I first tied the chain to the sprockets with a pair of wire ties per sprocket to maintain the cam timing. There's a picture showing the technique here:

http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/valves2.html
 

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I haven't had to take my cams out yet, but I believe that it's possible to do it one at a time after taking the tensioner out. Meaning, there should be enough slack to pull the chain over the cam gear, then slide it out sideways or something...

Can someone confirm?

I think it's best not to touch the cam gear bolts unless you are changing the gears, see the warning James posted. Those bolts have been known to break if they are monkeyed with and not replaced and torqued properly. That's big $$ if those break.
 

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^^^ it may be possible.

there is one thing that makes it more difficult on the MV motor than the example you show. the cam chain on the MV is in the center of the motor, not at the end of block. makes it a lot more difficult, but your suggestion still may be possible.

this is one of those design trades - putting the cam drive in the middle improves timing as the cam will twist pretty significantly, especially at high rpm. however, it makes maintenance and assembly a PITA.

alex
 

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Well, yeah but... It is what it is.

I have checked my valves, just not adjusted because they didn't need it.

I believe it is not that difficult to just loosen the tensioner and pull the chain over the gear and pull the cam out sideways, but I'm waiting for confirmation from someone who has done it.

What you don't want to do is take both out and drop the chain down into the engine, but even that probably isn't a huge deal (not sure on that one).

Again, you DON'T want to take the cam gears off unless you have bought new bolts and have followed the instructions on re-installing them properly, or your valves and pistons may become united.

So best not to do it if you don't have to.
 
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