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Looking for some help. 2005 F4 1000 full ti and eprom. Bike had sat for 1.5 years and recently transported to another country. Fired it up went for a ride and 20-30 minutes after riding the engine started to sound like a twin and the power was just not there. Let it sit for 15 minutes after seeing nothing on inspection. Fired it back up and it sounded/acted normal. Another 15 minutes down the road the power loss and sound returned.

Had a local mechanic (non-MV) change plugs, oil, fuel, filter. Took it out and again after warming up the twin sound and power loss return. There is the potential that the mechanic may be dodgy. However the bike is acting the same as it did before he touched it. He may have not done much to as what he charged for it as I am a foreigner in a foreign land.

So anyone here of 4 cyl sounding like a twin and power loss and occurs after the bike is warmed up and running ??????

Thanks for thoughts/suggestions
 

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I searched the forum to see if this had been addressed and my issue does seem to be different than others..
 

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It sounds like the EBS relay...It is known to get hot, malfunction, and reduce power. Do a search on EPS relays.

That would be my first guess.
 

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You need to start diagnosing.When it is misfiring is it just one cylinder down? Because you could have 1 coil breaking down.
When the mechanic changed the fuel filter did he replace the internal hoses also?
All common issues.
 

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No, Mitch, '05 batch firing coils.... Ed's favorite :grin2:

Halo do you have an inductive pickup timing light? When it's misbehaving
Lift the tank, start the bike and clamp on plug wires 1 or 2, or 3 or 4
You will find the failing coil

:wink2:
 

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No, Mitch, '05 batch firing coils.... Ed's favorite :grin2:

Halo do you have an inductive pickup timing light? When it's misbehaving
Lift the tank, start the bike and clamp on plug wires 1 or 2, or 3 or 4
You will find the failing coil

:wink2:
Noel, that is what a clamp-on ammeter can do for you, too. (Just sayin'):wink2:
 

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?

Chuck you might want to think how many amps you'll be seeing at 40,000 volts......

:wink2:

There is a point where accuracy of clamp on amp guage makes it irrelevant ......

Use a timing light. :grin2:
 

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Accuracy isn't the issue....detection is....just like a timing light. (I've got one of those, too.)

If you have one or the other, you can achieve the same end.
 

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Electrical people and electronics people use amp meters......mechanics don't

In this case a mechanic would pick up his or her IR Pyrometer and have an answer in 5 seconds on a Brutale
by shooting the pipes
On an F4 it takes longer because you must remove a side fairing.....

Still waaay faster than pulling the seat and lifting the tank

Chuck, I guess you don't know about "flat rating"

>:)>:)
 

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Nope...explain, please...an inquiring mind wants to know.
 

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He is referring to mechanics who get paid based on "Flat Rate" times established for repairs. Very little, if any, diagnostic time is included.
 

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He is referring to mechanics who get paid based on "Flat Rate" times established for repairs. Very little, if any, diagnostic time is included.

Don't I know it!


These days it's all based on the time allotted and what parts are replaced. Corporate Mechanics no longer have a feel for the trade.


I have been having an issue with my Ram Truck Transmission for abut three years. Complain about it each time I take the truck in for any type of service. No Codes, No Problems...that is the mantra...despite the fact that I can feel the issue degrading. Take the truck in for an oil change....transmission codes show a failure...after the warranty period by about a year. Result? A brand new 68FE transmission on Chrysler's dime because the issue became catastrophic. Clutch and casing failure.


I did pay a $250.00 deductible though.:|
 

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Smart mechanic's figure ways to beat the flat rate book.....

Honda allowed a stupid amount of time using their method and tool to change a front axle on an early '80s Honda car
Using a 20 pound slide hammer, that destroys the hub bearing

But if you undo the axle nut and drop the drag link you can pull the hub off the axle, you have to turn the wheel toward the side
to give you more brake lines
Pop the old axle out pop the new one in, slap the hub onto the axle, tighten the axle nut, bolt the drag link back on remount wheel
You're done
Do basically the same thing with Honda front wheel bearings......Instead of the slide hammer reach in with a punch in an air hammer
And shoot the bearing and seal out in 2-3 seconds
If you modify the Honda bearing press you can install the bearing answer seal at the same time

Honda gave you ~2 hours, a fast mechanic 15 minutes. You got paid 6 times your rate, the customer got 25% off the labor

Everybody won!:grin2:

You think we told Honda?

>:)>:)>:)
 

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@Halo: To get this thread back on track, what have you done/found?

I have experienced difficult running due to fuel delivery issues.
 

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Same problem SOLVED!

Coil ?


That is CORRECT! I had the exact same problem and my bike was sent in last week. Loss in power and sounds like a twin.

I felt all 4 pipes leading to the engine and one was cold after riding. Just had to replace the coil and all done. Good as new!

How this happens is when the spark plugs need to be changed. So instead of grabbing it by the head, some people pull it by the cable and that's what damages the coil.
 
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