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Discussion Starter #1
It was suggested to me today by a chap at a local dealer that I ought to raise my ride height by 20mm (0.8") over standard, (measured from the rear turn-signal to the ground.)

How long is the adjustment spindle, and is there any indication that it's reaching its limit? Or will the rear-end just fall apart if you go too far. I did wind it out and there appeared a groove on the spindle after about 10 whole turns. Is this an indicator that I've gone far enough? (As it was by that time I'd only raisedthe back by about 5-7mm so I'm assuming there's probably more but didn't want to risk it in case I was about to unthread the thing completely!)

Thanks,

Si
 

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Is this the prefered setting or the maximum setting??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
JamesC,
Is that the lowest setting or the highest? I assumed extending the bar would raise the height, or have I got it backwards?

Thanks,

Si
 

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James, got the pic still where messurement tool is showed? For the official only correct way measuring height.
What would the fluctuation be from hub axle down (highest) to about 90degrees (theoretical half way)?
 

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JamesC said:
My preferred.
My setting at this moment is 2,3 cm and I like it. When is it too far?
Thx for sharing your info :yo:
 

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Maximum Velocity said:
My setting at this moment is 2,3 cm and I like it. When is it too far?
Thx for sharing your info :yo:
Whats the correct static sag for the F4 1000 ??

On my mille i have 30-32mm front and 8-10mm rear ???
 

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This photo was taken when we were doing "Amer"'s bike from this forum.




I don't have the measurement in front of me of the total height from axle to exhaust rivet but I can confirm for you that there is no real need to buy the factory tool. Repeated measurements using factory tool vs using axle to exhaust rivet only showed maximum difference of a mm or two when we were really trying to get it out of shape.

I never believed or understood what was so special about the factory tool in the old mvF4 forum arguments but now I am empirically satisfied that it makes things very nice and easy but is not absolutely essential. The best thing it could do is give everyone the exact same point to measure from but the factory could have just marked the subframe somewhere and done the same thing IMO :)
 

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TheCatWhisperer said:
JamesC,
Is that the lowest setting or the highest? I assumed extending the bar would raise the height, or have I got it backwards?

Thanks,

Si
Neither. It is my preferred setting :)

Yes extending the gap raises rear height. If I remember correctly minimum is about 8-10mm?? I have no idea what max is at the gap.


To me 21-23mm is the highest you would want to go. That is an extreme compromise already.
 

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JamesC said:

James do you know what 22-23mm relates to using the MV tool ?? 210-215mm ??

One of the guys that races over hear on a F4 R who has moved the swinging arm pivot has a ride height of 245mm !!
 

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JamesC, what do you mean extreme compromise? you mean the bike would be too tall for street riding?

JamesC said:
Neither. It is my preferred setting :)

To me 21-23mm is the highest you would want to go. That is an extreme compromise already.
 

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Spud said:
James do you know what 22-23mm relates to using the MV tool ?? 210-215mm ??

One of the guys that races over hear on a F4 R who has moved the swinging arm pivot has a ride height of 245mm !!
I hate to disagree with James as I have a lot of respect for his opinions and FAQ pages etc, but! I'm going to...
The measurement of the adjuster rod does not take into account any rear shock/spring sag (my mates 1000 sagged 12mm over 18months). or indeed slight variations from one bike's machining of all the pivot parts to another bikes, also play in the shockabsober/link piece/rocker arm bushes/bearings, chain adjustment also alters the height, far better (IMHO) to put the bike on the stand and reference the height to a point on the subframe, the only variable left then is the difference in tyre height :)
 

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mikef4uk said:
I hate to disagree with James as I have a lot of respect for his opinions and FAQ pages etc, but! I'm going to...
The measurement of the adjuster rod does not take into account any rear shock/spring sag (my mates 1000 sagged 12mm over 18months). or indeed slight variations from one bike's machining of all the pivot parts to another bikes, also play in the shockabsober/link piece/rocker arm bushes/bearings, chain adjustment also alters the height, far better (IMHO) to put the bike on the stand and reference the height to a point on the subframe, the only variable left then is the difference in tyre height :)
Hi Mike..

Yep , that would have been my next question.. if the Ohlins has a different spring length/rate, as mine is a S 1+1 which maybe had a stronger spring..

Basically i feel i've fckd up the ride height..

I had someone trace the ride height tool, and made one myself, but when i connect it, i can't get near the recommendd 190mm.. more like 205mm is the minimum ..

I've checked my tool against the tracing .. and it matches..

But looking at the 750 workshop manual, with the bike on the mv stand, the tool looks nearly horozontal and the measurment point is near virtical to the spindle.. on my made up one, the tool is defo not horozontal and the measurment point is about 10 degrees c/clockwise to the virtical..


Me reckons tracing is fckd...!!!
 

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Spud said:
Hi Mike..

Yep , that would have been my next question.. if the Ohlins has a different spring length/rate, as mine is a S 1+1 which maybe had a stronger spring..

Basically i feel i've fckd up the ride height..

I had someone trace the ride height tool, and made one myself, but when i connect it, i can't get near the recommendd 190mm.. more like 205mm is the minimum ..

I've checked my tool against the tracing .. and it matches..

But looking at the 750 workshop manual, with the bike on the mv stand, the tool looks nearly horozontal and the measurment point is near virtical to the spindle.. on my made up one, the tool is defo not horozontal and the measurment point is about 10 degrees c/clockwise to the virtical..


Me reckons tracing is fckd...!!!
I normally measure mine to the pop rivet on the exhaust tip, but I have also slid a 1/4 drive extension through the subframe and measured to that, the problem there is the subframe also has a +/- factor as well. the pic of mine shows the adjuster jusr about on min, that is because of the Maxton shock that is fitted.

One thing that I have noticed over the years and 3 MV's is all the rose joints in the linkage are rubbish, if you have an Abba stand you can lift the bike by the swingarm pivot and the rear wheel is free, you can then lift the rear wheel and feel all the play in these rose joints :jsm:
 

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hb88xx said:
James, got the pic still where messurement tool is showed? For the official only correct way measuring height.
What would the fluctuation be from hub axle down (highest) to about 90degrees (theoretical half way)?
There is a difference of 1cm . Total wheelbase difference is 2cm ,both rough measurements . Seeing this discussion revived motivated me into the shed to check the axle range in the hub.

Checked the rod on both bikes ,the maxton one was 18 and the ohlins was 17,
any more and I wouldnt get a foot down .
As discussed in the other thread the 190 measurement is for stock sloppy set up 750's so anything more is the right direction.
The maxton setup of 18mm was with 43t rear which brings axle forward and up and lifts rear Icm,less what static sag was set before change, then you either back off spring or the adjuster rod and reset your sag .

My take from the other thread was that the measurements were irrelevent along with the tool unless you want to replicate the std setup for a road 750
I'm sure if your sag is set the bike will handle and you will be thinking a click here and why didnt I just send it to Maxton :banghead:
 
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