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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tamburini #211 had a failure the other day, high-beam went out. Wanting to do-it-myself, I called Altoon to confirm the steps involved, and he volunteered to come over, acting as my hand-model (he does have lovely hands...), co-beer drinker, and internet research assistant. Thanks Big Al!!!

Removing the entire upper fairing (I call it the nose-cone) of an F4 is a very simple procedure, requiring ONLY a #5 hex wrench, and some ice cold Sam Adams...I did another DIY step-by-step photo documentary, so you can do it too. The below album outlines the steps required, and goes on to show how to replace the high-beam bulb, which is a standard automotive part, available at your local auto store.

The low-beam is accessible from on top, just in front of the top-triple clamp, under the rubber boot. Ironically, to replace the high-beam bulb, you need to make your F4 look like this...Note the strategic placement of one cold Sam Adams...Fricken' Massimo, you call yourself a designer? ;)



Really no big deal, you can EASILY do it yourself.

Here is the link to the album...Let me know if I screwed anything else up, besides the spelling of Sylvania...

F4 Nose removal/High-beam bulb

Griff
twoeleven
 

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Thanks for the great step by step! That and the oil change will be of great help down the line for me soon! Greatly appreciated! :drummer:

I have a bunch of videos I did with Alex for stripping your MV down to its sexy internals. Hopefully in a week or so I'll have time to put them all together nicely!
 

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Yep, lets make this bike very complicated!! wait untill you try and change the side light/park bulbs, that's even harder (more complicated) than the main beam :jsm:
 

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Larry - what a great bike. And it's awesome that you want to do this kind of stuff. Getting a look at that thing below the skin makes me appreciate it even more.

Let me know when you want to take that airbox off. I'd really like to see the TSS system up close.

Alex
 

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They fixed this on the F4R. You no longer have to remove the front fairing, only a rubber cap on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
R1andrew said:
They fixed this on the F4R. You no longer have to remove the front fairing, only a rubber cap on the bottom.
You probably don't need to remove the nose cone on any of them, although FOR SURE removing the side panels gives you easier access.

Alex and I had talked about doing the 'How to' for the forum on the nose removal before, and it is so painfully easy, we just photo-documented it so that everyone could see what a breeze it is! If you do opt to remove it, you just have that much better access to the clips, especially the one on the rear of the Deutsch connector.

Good point Andrew...You technically DON't have to remove the nose, but everyone should do it at least once anyway, just to check out what a slick system it is!!!

Griff
twoeleven
 

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I've actually replaced the high beam bulb before without any disassembly required. You just need to have flexible fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awiner...I tried that, couldn't get it done...At a minimun, I need to pull the right side panel. Not enough room for my mitts otherwise!

Just got back from a late night test drive...I replaced the stock 9005 HB3U with the matching 9005 ST, which is a Silverstar bulb, also from Sylvania, purchased at my local Auto Zone...

The light appears brighter, certainly much whiter than stock...Now I want to swap out my low-beam bulb!

Two thumbs-up!

Griff
twoeleven
 

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Ozboy said:
Anyone know why the "flutes" are so high above the throttle bodies??
must be Tambo's only... as mine weren't like that.... maybe the variable intake ?? Although i wish mine looked like that.... :moped:
 

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Ozboy said:
Anyone know why the "flutes" are so high above the throttle bodies??
That IS the TSS system. It's a two-stage intake. At low RPM, the actuator keeps the velocity stacks down against the intake opening, thereby rasing the effective total length of the intake tract.

At high rpm, the actuator moves the velocity stacks up out of the way, shortening the intake tract lenght.

More stuff here on this if you are interested: http://www.cycleworld.com/article.asp?section_id=12&article_id=22&page_number=3

BTW, Larry claims that he can really feel it when the system changes.
 

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Right...blast form the past here but the gallery is not there anymore and I was hoping for some visuals before removing the nose today.

After the side panels are off, is it really just the bolts holding it to the fairing stay by the mirrors that need to come out? That's it?
 

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That's it.
The manual recommends loosening the mirror bolts, too. I don't usually do that.

Care is required when re-installing the nose fairing as alignment of the locating pins is crucial. So is the amount of torque applied to the mounting bolts.

The suggestion is to loosely mount the fairing, turn on your key, turn on a turn signal and tighten the mounting bolts until snug while ensuring the turn signal stays actuated....repeat for the other side then check both turn signals function.

While the nose is off, check and clean the contacts for the turn signals and apply a dielectric grease.
 

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I have had my fairing on and off more times than a tarts knicker's on Friday night in Portsmouth. ; )

It is better to slacken the bolts at the mirror position as this enables you to slide the metal stay up and away from the base plate. The reason I say this is that there are two little studs that locate in the base plate and these need to be pulled up and out. The danger if you don't is that the little studs can and will snap off..not good compared with a lefty loosey on the mirror screws...

That is my experience... I can't vouch for Portsmouth but ask any Navy man..:)

joe
 

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...um, I've been to Portsmouth....AND I was a NAVY man.....:jsm::smoking:
 

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Once again..thanks for the timely response gents. What a cool way to attach an upper eh? Just pops off and that's that!

Right...back to the garage...more tinkering is to be had :)
 
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