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Thanks for the reply Adam.

I haven't gone back to re-read the entire thread, but I got the impression you cut into the harness and soldered the diode in. I was thinking of simply inserting it, as a bridge, directly from pin-to-pin between the relays. A friction fit.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the reply Adam.

I haven't gone back to re-read the entire thread, but I got the impression you cut into the harness and soldered the diode in. I was thinking of simply inserting it, as a bridge, directly from pin-to-pin between the relays. A friction fit.
Yes, I soldered it in place via a couple of fly leads, just to be on the safe side. You don't have to cut the harness, just pull back the insulation.

A better way than a friction fit would be to solder the diode onto fly leads and use scotch locks.

Cheers
Adam
 
Would someone be kind enough to put up a photo of what two wires need to be connected to the diode?

Thanks in advance. - Seth
 
Adam can you confirm if a setup like this will work?

I carefully filed down the end of each prong on the 3A diode and friction fit it per SilentService's method above. Each prong is sitting securely wedged next to wire ends.

I haven't fired anything up yet because I don't want to blow the bike to the moon.

I'll shrink wrap it all and electrical tape it for backup. Good to go or am I at risk for catastrophic failure?

Thanks! - Seth
 

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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Adam can you confirm if a setup like this will work?

I carefully filed down the end of each prong on the 3A diode and friction fit it per SilentService's method above. Each prong is sitting securely wedged next to wire ends.

I haven't fired anything up yet because I don't want to blow the bike to the moon.

I'll shrink wrap it all and electrical tape it for backup. Good to go or am I at risk for catastrophic failure?

Thanks! - Seth
The side of the diode with the bar on it, ie the side you have connected to the red/white wire needs to be connected to the low beam side, the other side to the high beam.
It depends on your year of bike but it looks ok.
If it is wrong, it would work the wrong way around, just switch it on and try :)

I soldered mine to the wires but if it is a good fit then I guess it's up to you....

Cheers
Adam
 
FWIW, I never did go the diode route. I simply installed two HID kits and use the flash-to-pass switch to preignite the highbeam. NO problems.
 
I checked the headlamp relays and they have no detail on them to specify the rating - just the part and pin numbers.
The relay holder has a bocsh part number and is for a bosch 'micro' relay. These are rated at 15 to 25A so will be fine for the ballast which tops out at just 6.5A at startup dropping to a mere 3.4A after 12secs.

I'll see what the widget looks like when it turns up - I know its semi potted and uses a transistor to switch. There might be room under the right hand electrical cover next to the horn.
Looks like the connector block in the same area links to the starter switch as well.


Cheers
Adam
where is the head light relay
 
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