Anyone know the rating of the headlight relays for the F4?
CheersAdam
CheersAdam
Well, just fitted the widget, very small and completely sealed. Fits nicely ontop of the air tube next to the horn and is hidden by the electrical cover.Adam,
we had a discussion on the Aprilia forum about the same thing, the startup draw of the ballasts
i just don't trust another electronic widget thats not sealed and has a bunch of adjustments......
a plain old relay is just more reliable....and certainly cheaper
Cheers
Noel-theknurl
where is the head light relayI checked the headlamp relays and they have no detail on them to specify the rating - just the part and pin numbers.
The relay holder has a bocsh part number and is for a bosch 'micro' relay. These are rated at 15 to 25A so will be fine for the ballast which tops out at just 6.5A at startup dropping to a mere 3.4A after 12secs.
I'll see what the widget looks like when it turns up - I know its semi potted and uses a transistor to switch. There might be room under the right hand electrical cover next to the horn.
Looks like the connector block in the same area links to the starter switch as well.
Cheers
Adam
First off, for the lights, there are 2 relays on the F4, 1 each for high and low beam and rated minimum 15A each. The low beam relay is on as soon as the ign is on, the high is on when the high beam is switched - this also switches off the low beam relay.personally i wouldn't fit a 30amp relay
don't get me wrong but if you end up pulling more than the original relay allows you could over load the wiring
if the wiring is capable of hanling 30a then yes fit a 30a relay if not stick with the standard relay
i'm about to get read yto fit a hid kit and also concearned about switching to high beam at night
if theres a 20s delay i'll be driving with no lights not a great idea
any one got any good ideas on how to over come this problem
cheers
intersting let me kow how you get on please
To be honest there is not much to take a photo of. The two relays are together in a rubber holder under the left electric cover. Cut back the sleeving on both relay harneses so you can work on the cables inside. You can then either cut the coil wires or try and cut back about 15mm of sleeving.cool thanks for the heads up
i'm near portsmouth
so i may well get the dioede and try it
did you take any photos if not
do yu fancy taking it all apart again and taking some so i can see what you done
thanks adam
Good stuff !adam thanks for the heads up on the info
done it mate with the diode all sorted
just need to bin the yellow crap bulbs
ordered white led jobbies
now sourcing a 9005 white hahah
1)I guess there might me an issue with the life of the bulb / ballast but it won't break in the first week !Ok, folks...resurrection time. I am actually going to do a dual H.I.D. setup on my F4.
1) Is there a "real" isssue with letting the H.I.D. fire up on engine start...or is it a perceived problem?
2) Has anyone actually tried it without wiring/relay modification?
3) Last question...for the moment...becasue I like things simple and restorable, why not simply actuate the "flash-to-pass" switch to activate (or maintain activated) the applcable ballast/igniter when switchng from high to low and vice-versa?
Yes, I soldered it in place via a couple of fly leads, just to be on the safe side. You don't have to cut the harness, just pull back the insulation.Thanks for the reply Adam.
I haven't gone back to re-read the entire thread, but I got the impression you cut into the harness and soldered the diode in. I was thinking of simply inserting it, as a bridge, directly from pin-to-pin between the relays. A friction fit.
The side of the diode with the bar on it, ie the side you have connected to the red/white wire needs to be connected to the low beam side, the other side to the high beam.Adam can you confirm if a setup like this will work?
I carefully filed down the end of each prong on the 3A diode and friction fit it per SilentService's method above. Each prong is sitting securely wedged next to wire ends.
I haven't fired anything up yet because I don't want to blow the bike to the moon.
I'll shrink wrap it all and electrical tape it for backup. Good to go or am I at risk for catastrophic failure?
Thanks! - Seth