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In your post you mention about slow start, and reset of trip meter etc. That is usually an indication that there is either a bad earth or connector issue. On my B4 it was the 4 pin connector on the start solenoid. The thin wires feed the ecu, which feeds the trip meter. The female parts had loosened up with time on our rubbish roads.
 

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In your post you mention about slow start, and reset of trip meter etc. That is usually an indication that there is either a bad earth or connector issue. On my B4 it was the 4 pin connector on the start solenoid. The thin wires feed the ecu, which feeds the trip meter. The female parts had loosened up with time on our rubbish roads.
Those symptoms are also an indication of a weak battery. Check it with a load tester and check the charging system output.
 

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Why in this world would you want to add ANOTHER relay to a system that is already designed to cutoff headlight, and other unnecessary, power during the starting sequence?
There are no less than FOUR relays that control where power goes when you turn the key on and then push the start button. Those four relays have to work in sequence to get electrons to go where they are needed most at any particular time. The four relays are: General Feed, Power, Latch and Start Solenoid.
Over my breakfast of Granola and Whiskey, I casually followed the circuit and my money would be on the Latch or Power relay being stuck on. Swap those two and see what changes. They are identical and on each side of the rear subframe on the heat shield.
On another note, since you stated you changed your battery, ensure you reattached ALL of the wires to their correct terminals.
Also, disassemble, clean and recondition the connections on your start solenoid,. It is a known trouble spot.
 
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I meant replace the low beam headlight relay not add another.
They do stay on while cranking, at least on the early ones, not sure 07+ - mine does...
 

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Adam, I find that interesting because I don't think that my EV 03 did.

I wonder if there was a change between the 1.6M and the 5SM ECU control of the start sequence?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hi merc , thanks for making me re think that I was not the only loonie on here,yet to be determined, [ not you or agent esky and 703 of coarse]

The main reason for having the light off on starting was from my trying to diagnose the bike I bought with known running problems etc,
I ended up ripping out the headlight fuse anyway to help when I did my 40/60 start ups and throttle sensor and air screw tuning without trying to flatten the battery, I did unplug the chip and played with the dial setting in the ecu but put it all back to normal while trying the rest of the test, cheers,

Part 2 from when I last let off, phew !

I thought I had it nailed except for the rough running, added a couple of new outside injectors 1/4 with broken tabs, trying to dial in the throttle sensor and air screws, hence the starting on off chewing up the new battery, pulled the headlight fuse to help some while playing about, bought the bike with a running issue thinking I'll sort this baby out in no time, new fuel / air filter, oil, coolant, plugs,etc, was not to bad till I took her for a couple runs, still a bit off thinking okay time for a new ebs, chip or flash in order,
I have one on order from the grand merc7, in the meantime she was still turning over like a donkey on hot sand, then slowly nothing at even wanting to fire, threw down the throat some contact cleaner while kicking over, it tried to fire, then some brake cleaner made it better, so I thought it was a fuel problem, so about to throw in another new filter and injectors when I decided to rip out the plugs, gave my new iridiums a good old wire brush to their tips with plenty of petrol in between and voila, she fired again, [I know they say don't wire brush them but I will be putting in another set when the chip arrives,
As for the ecu learning they obliviously need to correct fueling with altitude and air filter flow when they are not as clean from new,
I rest my case for now, cheers amigos, :giggle:
 
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