MV Agusta Forum banner

21 - 27 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
I think it's safe to say the problem wasn't my springs...





It broke cleanly into 4 pieces, and luckily they all stayed right in place inside the basket. The rest of my friction plates are all >2.98mm. Wear limit is 2.8. I'm hoping to get a whole set though, who knows what kind of weird stresses they were under after the inner ring busted

Springs all measured at 40mm or just over (wear limit is 38.8mm).

On a positive note, this is officially something that Knurl has never seen before, so it's a big day for the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Whooa .. Have you been dragracing that poor thing .... :-D

My 750SR is at 24000 km -- and has done a fair bit of dragracing --- with no clutch problems so far ..
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,852 Posts
My old 350 modified production road racer would routinely break plates...we always assumed the result of hard launches, since the start was about the only time the clutch was used.

The clutch would drag badly, but it didn't matter until the race ended and i needed to find neutral or stop. We just replaced the broken plate and got ready to go again.

My bike was basically a TR3 Yamaha top end and crank on a RD350 crankcase (had to retain kick starter per the rules) so the wet clutch wasn't up to the task the TR3 dry clutch could have handled.

Never really figured out why it happened, just replaced the broken plate and went on about the business of racing. :smoking:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Whooa .. Have you been dragracing that poor thing .... :-D

nope. I have no idea, the plates are still in great shape otherwise. I'm pretty gentle on the clutch. It gets most of its workout at low speed during starts in traffic and lane filtering at like 30 mph. I don't use it up-shifting above 2nd gear, and I only ever rip it on the throttle when the clutch is fully engaged
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,212 Posts
?

My old 350 modified production road racer would routinely break plates...we always assumed the result of hard launches, since the start was about the only time the clutch was used.

The clutch would drag badly, but it didn't matter until the race ended and i needed to find neutral or stop. We just replaced the broken plate and got ready to go again.

My bike was basically a TR3 Yamaha top end and crank on a RD350 crankcase (had to retain kick starter per the rules) so the wet clutch wasn't up to the task the TR3 dry clutch could have handled.

Never really figured out why it happened, just replaced the broken plate and went on about the business of racing. :smoking:
No......RD clutches were bulletproof
Trust me my RD 350 would eat a TZ 350 up to 100-110......that's what they'll do if you cut 2mm off the head and make
the exhaust port 48mm wide, with Dykes rings you can do that, not with TZ rings
220psi measured with a rubber tipped gauge, probably 240-245psi with a screw in gauge
Here's my buddy Tom Turner's wet clutch RD 400 "Purple Poison" Stuart Toomey loaned Tom a TZ clutch, one pass.....smoked
Like the specs?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
I wonder if the innermost friction disc breakage is more common than I realized, and maybe that's why they added these "seat springs" to the design

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,212 Posts
?

I wonder if the innermost friction disc breakage is more common than I realized, and maybe that's why they added these "seat springs" to the design
No, the Belleville spring and flat washer press on the 1st steel plate not the friction disc
It's to help separate the plates and discs......
Bikes like Yamaha RDs used V shaped O-rings between all the plates to do the same thing
Too much oil in the clutch pack can make it difficult to find neutral, Aprilia RSVRs have a clutch oil jet
l put a smaller one in and neutral was easy to find
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Top