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Discussion Starter #1
Just ran into this today with my F4. Went out for a ride and halfway in the ride the brake lights stopped working. Pulled over to change the bulb and the bulb is fine and the light is working with the tail up. Put the tail back down and the bulb does not work. Hmmm.... Interesting.....

The wiring harness for the tail light assembly was pressing against the locking bracket and causing a loss of connection when the tail was locked. I resolved this by moving the slack in the cable away from the bulb holder and further down the end of the cable so the wiring would not rub against the bracket. I may eventually replace the whole cable assembly and bulb holder if it becomes problematic again.

It was somewhat obvious what was happening but I thought it was kind of interesting and might save someone some frustration and a trip to the mechanic if they were having a not so great day.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I need to improve upon the design on mine. The bulb base works itself loose and then the ground wire rubs on that bracket, pinching it.
Yeah. That's pretty much exactly what mine was doing. When the tail was down there were no brake lights. Tail back up it was fine. It was kind of strange. When I removed the slack by moving the rubber grommets on the wire it was fine. If it continues to give me issues I may get in contact with Carl and buy a new wire. :)
 

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Just go to home depot/radio shack and make your own. You can get stranded copper there in 18 gauge and solder it into the bases and re-run it in a way that if the base were to collide with the mount the wires wouldn't be in a place to be pinched.

That is what I am planning to do with mine, I just haven't taken the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just go to home depot/radio shack and make your own. You can get stranded copper there in 18 gauge and solder it into the bases and re-run it in a way that if the base were to collide with the mount the wires wouldn't be in a place to be pinched.

That is what I am planning to do with mine, I just haven't taken the time.
Not real big on making modifications like that. I would rather the factory wiring harness. Even if I have to order one new I don't mind paying the price. Time is money they say. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess, its like 15 minutes worth of work if you have any talent and it would be superior the factory wiring harness because the placement of the wiring puts it in a place of risk.
If you are comfortable with that on your bike more power to you Ryan. For me my bike is special to me and It's not acceptable to have cobbled together non factory standard wiring on mine. As well the original connector on the bike is going on 11 years old. If I have to replace a factory wiring connector every 11 years I'm completely ok with that. It takes about 2 seconds to change out.
 

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Ha. "Cobbled together" isn't what I do. My OCD doesn't allow for it.

But hey its your money. If you want to buy a new harness so you can feel better that your bike is 100% original parts (is it?) then its up to you. I'm just suggesting an alternative where any person skilled with solder and heat shrink can solve the underlying problem.

But I can understand that many people just don't have the acumen, even then I would suggest you hit up a fabricator that can. In this instance it makes sense, the Mitchy hub, Joes support for the radiator, etc. As for the "time is money" you could correct the problem faster than replacing the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ha. "Cobbled together" isn't what I do. My OCD doesn't allow for it.

But hey its your money. If you want to buy a new harness so you can feel better that your bike is 100% original parts (is it?) then its up to you. I'm just suggesting an alternative where any person skilled with solder and heat shrink can solve the underlying problem.

But I can understand that many people just don't have the acumen, even then I would suggest you hit up a fabricator that can. In this instance it makes sense, the Mitchy hub, Joes support for the radiator, etc. As for the "time is money" you could correct the problem faster than replacing the parts.
I share the same level of OCD.

Certainly on parts where there's the potential of a huge catastrophic failure I'm willing to go beyond the factory stuff and do a modification. The plastic heater core in my Range Rover is a great example. After dealing with several units and their leaking O rings all over my $700 custom made wool floor mats I had the whole core removed and replaced with a solid copper core. The leaking was annoying but the prospect of overheating and taking out the engine is why I modified.

The tail light wiring is a bad design but replacing a factory wire every 11 or so years is not that big a deal.
 
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