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A friend of mine has a 750, and tomorrow I'm going to help him check basic things about the bike. I'm planning on checking the fairings to see if they are melted from the exhaust, check if fluids are leaking, kickstand tightness... etc. Is there anything else I should look for (air filter...etc)? Also, does anyone know if there is any reason to remove the panels on the side of the airbox (just asking, because if so, I need to tell him to order new wellnuts). I'm sure he knows how to do everything correctly, but are there any tips for removing the fairing? Is it a straight forward job, or is it overly complex? I would like to know all I can, so anything you can tell me would be a great help (i'm going to make a checklist).


Thanks alot,
Tom :f4:
 

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My head was loose so had to remove top triple clamp and torque up using that huge multi toothed socket. If you don't have the correct torques for all the bolts download it and check all of them for correct tightness.
Rear brake might also need some attention.
 

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Fairing removal is quite simple. I could have all the bodywork off, including tank and tail, in less than ten minutes. Less than five if I had all the tools handy. Oh, and all the tools necessary could easily be carried in one hand. I can't recall any reason you'd need to remove the small airbox covers. The sides and lower should be all you need to remove. I think it's 17 quick-release fasteners for that, no tools required.

Some miscellany:

Check the breather hose from the crankcase to the airbox for cracks. If it starts splitting, you'll get oil on top of the engine.
Check brake pad thickness front and rear. If worn, measure rotor thickness.
Bleed the brakes.

Looks like they're going to make me get back to work ...

Have fun.
 

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Depends on what you're trying to achieve by your checks.

There are quite a few checks that I'd expect most people can carry out, many are just simple visual checks and don't require any tools at all....

Check all fluid levels (brake (both front and back), clutch, coolant and oil)
If brake and/or clutch fluid is black or dark it's probably f%^$*ed (unless it was black or dark from new) and should be replaced.
Check chain tension/wear
Check rear sprocket wear
Check throttle free play and operation
Check brake pad lining thickness
Check general electric components and associated switchgear (headlights, indicators, brake lights etc..)
Check general condition of tyres (cracks, nicks, embedded foreign objects etc..)
Warm the engine up and check that the cooling fans come on at the appropriate temperature
With the engine still running, move the steering from 'lock to lock' listen (or watch the tacho) for a change in idle speed

All of the above can be done with the bike on the ground and without tools.

With a few basic tools you can...

Check front sprocket wear (care should be taken when removing the sprocket cover to keep the clutch pushrod in place)
Check battery terminals are tight (you will most likely have to completely remove the seat unit to gain enough access to the negative terminal)
Check main earth strap terminal is clean and tight
Check earth strap to ECU casing terminal is clean and tight
Check tyre pressures
Check battery/alternator charging voltage

If you have a stand that can raise the rear without lifting on the rear hub or swingarm you can check the rear wheel bearing free play (axial and radial) and also that the rear spins relatively freely, free play of rear suspension pivot points etc.. can also be checked.

If you have a stand/means to raise the front without lifting on the yokes or fork knuckles then you can check for free play in head bearings, fork bushes etc.. you can also do a basic check on front wheel bearings but I find removing the front wheel helps to more accurately gauge wheel bearing condition. While the front is up in the air, you should again move the steering 'lock to lock' slowly, this should indicate any 'notchiness' (if it exists) within the head bearings and also highlight any cables which may be binding during steering movement.

If you want to check the air filter you will have to remove the two small panels toward the front of either side of the airbox. You may also require some aluminium tape to reseal the airbox after removing and refitting the air filter (sometime you can get away with reusing the tape sometime you can't). You pretty much have to remove all bodywork (including rear seat unit and tank) to get the airbox off so while all that is off you may aswell check all hoses you can see for deterioration.

You should also check all bolts and fastners you can see and have access to are tight and secure.

I'm sure there are more basic checks I've forgotten but off the top of my head that's all I can think of. All of the above are what I would class as basic checks and in no way constitute a 'service' of any kind.
 
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