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Discussion Starter #1
I have a running issue with my 2007 312R and not sure where to start trying to fix it.

On tick over the revs bounce up and down slightly and it stalls after about 30 seconds. It'll start up again immediately after cutting out without issue. As the temperature increases the running gets worse, getting quite lumpy and occasionally dropping a cylinder.

When entering slow corners or junctions the bike will stall unless the revs are kept higher than usual.

I'm not sure if it's fuelling, a sensor, a vacuum pipe, spark plug or something else?

The bike has only covered 4k miles from new. Before this issue started I was living in central London and switching off at every set of lights to keep the temperature down. I guess this could have caused an issue with the spark plugs with constant stop starting but not convinced it is that.

I'm also struggling to find anyone decent to work on the bike. I used to take my last MV to Forza Italia at Silverstone until they went bust a few years ago. I'm now based in Cornwall (south west UK) and have no idea where to take it.

Any help and advise would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Hank
 

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You mentioned quite a few possible things already. Start with the easy ones and eliminate them from the list. Could be any of those.
 

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Hank, first let me welcome you to mvagusta.net.

There are many ways to approach your issues, I would start by inviting you to go to Donsy's website: MV Agusta Team Double 3 Racing and download your appropriate workshop and engine manuals. This is cost-free thanks to the work of Donsy and others on this forum.

Now, erratic running is most likely due to a small vacuum leak somewhere in the system that allows you to check Throttle Body Synchronization without removing your tank. REmove your tail section and seat....very easy to do...and check the hoses that are under vacuum condition. That includes the little caps on the connections at the frame rails.
479791


Then pull your fuel pump plate and check internal hoses and fuel filter for degradation. Those fuel lines are to be changed every three years or fuel turns them to mush and they can gum up the works.

479792
 

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The next thing you should have checked is the idle speed and TPS settings. You need dedicated software for that.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The next thing you should have checked is the idle speed and TPS settings. You need dedicated software for that.

That's great thanks very much for the information.

I did see that one of the two small rubber caps on the right hand side is split. I tried running the bike with my thumb over the hole but that didn't make any difference. I'll get a replacement and check all the other hoses you've suggested.

Where is the best place to buy parts these days?
 

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Your bike is 13 years old......air leak!
Pull the tank and replace the filter and fuel lines
Buy 8, M4 x 25mm Allen head screws and a ball end screwdriver to fit
replace the screws on the manifolds hose clamps (you'll thank me later for the Allen head tip)
Retorque the manifold bolts
Replace the 4 vacuum hoses and caps
Now set TPS and sync the throttle bodies
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your bike is 13 years old......air leak!
Pull the tank and replace the filter and fuel lines
Buy 8, M4 x 25mm Allen head screws and a ball end screwdriver to fit
replace the screws on the manifolds hose clamps (you'll thank me later for the Allen head tip)
Retorque the manifold bolts
Replace the 4 vacuum hoses and caps
Now set TPS and sync the throttle bodies
Great thanks for your help
 

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While you do all that, put gen2 caps with spring clips on the end of the sync hoses. The stock ones are very soft, and can leak when the engine is hot even when they are new.
 
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