[dalzell]

as you know the front tyre size for the f4 750 and f4 1000 are different [120/60 x17 and 120/70 respectively ]. no dout to counter the more open rake on the geometry, larger engine and radiator. just out of interest has anyone tried the 120/60 ratio tyre in a 1000. did it weight the front more or is it just not advisable. dalzell :shocker:

 

[machine748s]

as you know the front tyre size for the f4 750 and f4 1000 are different [120/60 x17 and 120/70 respectively ].

Actually the 750 came with a 120x65... I was told that fitting 120x70 on the 750 may cause some damage to the front fender (didn't tried, so I don't know if its true).

 

[JamesC]

as you know the front tyre size for the f4 750 and f4 1000 are different [120/60 x17 and 120/70 respectively ]. no dout to counter the more open rake on the geometry, larger engine and radiator. just out of interest has anyone tried the 120/60 ratio tyre in a 1000. did it weight the front more or is it just not advisable. dalzell :shocker:

HI Dalzell,

I think the desire to move to the 120/70 is what caused the change in geometry not the other way around. 120/70 are a more common tire size so supply is easier as well as their use much more standard these days. It doesn't 'counter' the increased rake it in fact exascerbates the issue in my opinion.

Having ridden Tamburini and a 1000 a number of times I know that if I had a 1000 one of the first changes I would make is to a 120/65 like the 750 as Machine748 correctly stated.

By the way I've also used Pilot H2's for about a year solid in 120/60. The bike stands up badly on the brakes but was otherwise fair - although we have more choice of great 120/65 tires now so I haven't gone back to them.

 

[altoon]

is there a reason why the geometry can't be brought back to "stock" with a 120/70 considering all the adjustments that the f4 has?

alex

 

[JamesC]

From what I remember the angle of rake is set at the headstock weld and not an inserted offset/eccentric so short of cutting and welding I don't believe it's possible to reduce it (24deg for 750 and 24.5 for 1000 was it?)

 

[altoon]

From what I remember the angle of rake is set at the headstock weld and not an inserted offset/eccentric so short of cutting and welding I don't believe it's possible to reduce it (24deg for 750 and 24.5 for 1000 was it?)

good point. i think you're right - offest impacts trail (going from memory here). but what about changing the fork height in the clamps and chaning the rear ride height? you could raise the rear to get the rake back, and then move the clamps up on the forks to get the front/rear balance back.

just a thought...

alex

 

[dalzell]

front tyre size

thanks for the above comments, it goes in line with my thoughts, in that after riding the 1000 i always felt the steering and turn in was not as precise as on the 750 will go for the 165 next time on the thou...... no harm in trying :grin:

 

[Gladio]

good point. i think you're right - offest impacts trail (going from memory here). but what about changing the fork height in the clamps and chaning the rear ride height? you could raise the rear to get the rake back, and then move the clamps up on the forks to get the front/rear balance back.

just a thought...

alex

I believe James was saying you couldn't change the rake to make the 1000 match the 750. You can compensate as you mentioned for tire size to get back to stock.

FWIW the headstock takes a large insert which stock is straight. I'd imagine someone somewhere has made a replacement part to change the rake. So the headstock would accept an ecentric if you had one.

 

[JamesC]

good point. i think you're right - offest impacts trail (going from memory here). but what about changing the fork height in the clamps and chaning the rear ride height? you could raise the rear to get the rake back, and then move the clamps up on the forks to get the front/rear balance back.

just a thought...

alex

As Jack said, Agreed 100%. But then most 750 owners have done the same

I'm eager to hear how you like the 65 on that thing