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Discussion Starter #1
I have not been able to find a lot of info on this but my quick shifter is touchy. Mostly on the 1-2 it just jumps to N. is there any adjustments I can do to correct this? The I cannot find this in the engine or frame shop manuals.
 

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Just from my experience and what I noticed when quickshifting myself from 1st to 2nd, Kick that lever up like there is no tomorrow.
Dont be gentle with it. Kick it really up. If u touch if softly and push it up instead of "kicking" it goes into Neutral for me aswell.

Inbetween 4th and 5th is a false neutral aswell. Atleast thats what my dealer said and just suggested to kick the gear lever in every gear.
Use it like you would use it on the track.

*as for technical side, there are people that will respond in this topic soon. They know alot more about this.
 

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Look into how much freeplay you have in the shifter and your foot, i have found that with QS on various bikes, that some with more "robust" transmissions, need more of a push to assist in that gear change.. MY Panigale is like that especially in 2-3.. MY 675R is overly sensitive and changes to every gear like a hot knofe through butter, but if you need neutral you will be in for a fight.
 

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Just from my experience and what I noticed when quickshifting myself from 1st to 2nd, Kick that lever up like there is no tomorrow.
Dont be gentle with it. Kick it really up. If u touch if softly and push it up instead of "kicking" it goes into Neutral for me aswell.

Inbetween 4th and 5th is a false neutral aswell. Atleast thats what my dealer said and just suggested to kick the gear lever in every gear.
Use it like you would use it on the track.

*as for technical side, there are people that will respond in this topic soon. They know alot more about this.
I agree with this. In my experience as well that you need to be really positive with your foot and push the lever all the way or you will hit neutral. Anything half hearted or weak won't do. Haven't had a problem with any neutrals on the quickshifter by shifting properly.
 

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I tend to use the clutch from 1st to 2nd as it hits neutral very often, however I've had the same experience on a 959, an RSV4 and an S1000RR so I've always just put it down to the design of these gearboxes. Ultimately it doesn't know that you want to skip neutral so you'll have to give it a hell of a kick to avoid this happening, hence I often just use the clutch from 1-2.

I have also experienced the false neutral from 4-5 but not very often. More so when having entered a motorway and knocking it up the box at lower revs to cruise in 6th, not often when on power hard.
 

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Quickshifter merely cuts ignition. Has absolutely nothing to do with hitting neutral. Its all in the correct positive shift action as stated above.

A much easier solution is to have a reverse pattern shifter fitted (GP shift). I haven't missed a shift or hit neutral since installing a reverse pattern gearshifter (CNC racing has a nice one for the F3 that doesn't require new rear sets).

Took me a few hours to get used to, but now the shifting is solid. You can stomp down a lot harder than shift up under acceleration. Under braking, its quite easy to lift your foot up to gear down. Shifting up in long radius corners is also a much easier now. I wont go back to a traditional shift pattern knowing what I know now; all my sport bikes in future will have it.
 

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As above ^^^^

Quickshifter only cuts the ignition. You still need to move the shifting selector inside the gearbox manually. Set the height of the gearshifter if you need to make it more comfortable to apply the correct pressure upwards
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info, I think im going to look in to the CNC GP shift. As of now I was just using the clutch for the 1-2 but takes it some of the fun out of the electronic shift.
 

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Just from my experience and what I noticed when quickshifting myself from 1st to 2nd, Kick that lever up like there is no tomorrow.
Dont be gentle with it. Kick it really up. If u touch if softly and push it up instead of "kicking" it goes into Neutral for me aswell.

Inbetween 4th and 5th is a false neutral aswell. Atleast thats what my dealer said and just suggested to kick the gear lever in every gear.
Use it like you would use it on the track.

*as for technical side, there are people that will respond in this topic soon. They know alot more about this.
Just a question of setting the position of the selector down from what it is. I had that on my Turismo Veloce, and the single fact of moving the selector down a few millimeters and the problem was solved.
 

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I believe this is due to largest % jump between gear and subsequently, rpm difference of 1-2 shift. my other bikes have done this
 

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Additionally to what is being mentioned above you can adjust the shift lever a little lower. You may have it adjusted high and so sometimes depending on your body position you are unable to fully throw the lever up.

This also bring to attention another aspect... footwear. Are your riding boots inhibiting your movement?

Bike is meant to be ridden aggressively and shifting under high rpm and lots of throttle. If you are casually riding use the clutch lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If anyone has a similar issue my fix was using CNC GP shifter conversion, it works perfect at all gears. For a install tip the (2) spacers that mount where the kickstand is I did not use, I think its to delete the kick stand. and you need to rotate the shifter. I rotated to keep a 90deg angle. Its easy to get used to and I like it a lot better.
 

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How do you set the height of the gear shifter?
If you look at the picture posted a few messages above - you can move the gear shift higher or lower by rotating it around the gearshaft spline (undo the nut to loose up, pull the gearshift lever off, rotate, put back on)

What he meant with two dots - there is a visible punch mark on the gearshaft spline (see same picture above) with a marking on the quickshifter as well. Set the quickshifter length when these two dots match up / ie gearlever position as shown in picture
 

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How do you set the height of the gear shifter?
If you look at the picture posted a few messages above - you can move the gear shift higher or lower by rotating it around the gearshaft spline (undo the nut to loose up, pull the gearshift lever off, rotate, put back on)

What he meant with two dots - there is a visible punch mark on the gearshaft spline (see same picture above) with a marking on the quickshifter as well. Set the quickshifter length when these two dots match up / ie gearlever position as shown in picture
Thank you for this great explanation. It was easy to understand and follow.
 

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Quickshifter merely cuts ignition. Has absolutely nothing to do with hitting neutral. Its all in the correct positive shift action as stated above.

A much easier solution is to have a reverse pattern shifter fitted (GP shift). I haven't missed a shift or hit neutral since installing a reverse pattern gearshifter (CNC racing has a nice one for the F3 that doesn't require new rear sets).

Took me a few hours to get used to, but now the shifting is solid. You can stomp down a lot harder than shift up under acceleration. Under braking, its quite easy to lift your foot up to gear down. Shifting up in long radius corners is also a much easier now. I wont go back to a traditional shift pattern knowing what I know now; all my sport bikes in future will have it.
hello, can you tell me what type of shifer does reverse gear change as moto gp, I have a Brutale 800 Reparto Corse fits? Tk
 
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