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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
either listing my bike for sale or trade or taking it somewhere so someone can spend maximum 15minutes changing a wire or something on the QS/Blipper so its perfect.

im on a farm outside of washington Pa 15301 looking for best guy who can for sure sort it and and then dyno tune it. not really interested in shipping the bike out then shipping back to get "surprise! it still doesnt work"

for those not familiar with my predicament, the bike engine etc ran very very good for the 100mile break-in ride I did but only because I did not have the upgraded blipper unit installed. it does not run with the blipper installed and turned on and ive spend about 900$ for it and ecustudio to make it work which no matter the settings it does not.... no actual MECHANICAL problem whatsoever, purely electrical
 

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Give Rockwell Cycles a call 845-446-3834. They are located in Fort Montgomery, NY. Not sure if there dyno is up and running but they should be able to help you out with the QS issue.

either listing my bike for sale or trade or taking it somewhere so someone can spend maximum 15minutes changing a wire or something on the QS/Blipper so its perfect.

im on a farm outside of washington Pa 15301 looking for best guy who can for sure sort it and and then dyno tune it. not really interested in shipping the bike out then shipping back to get "surprise! it still doesnt work"

for those not familiar with my predicament, the bike engine etc ran very very good for the 100mile break-in ride I did but only because I did not have the upgraded blipper unit installed. it does not run with the blipper installed and turned on and ive spend about 900$ for it and ecustudio to make it work which no matter the settings it does not.... no actual MECHANICAL problem whatsoever, purely electrical
 

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can you maybe im short describe your setup and issue again? I'm sure we can sort the QS out via the forum as well (or if you drop me your phone number via PM via phone/whatsapp).

important:
- settings in ECU Studio
- QS sensor used
- picture of the QS mounted on the bike with full view on shift lever
 

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Discussion Starter #4
perhaps my issue is either in the actual unit Luca sent me for the blipper/qs device itself as it is only one actual "unit" not two units liken other bikes (non mv) ive seen. being a 14 675 I had to splice the 5v from tip over sensor into the unit itself which I had my father who is an electrical engineer do for me to make sure everything I was told to do was done proper. Perhaps my bike or into which particular wire it is splice is incorrect? I am unable to determine were this problem is and have spent all my energy trying to figure this out for the last.... since, like 3months now
 

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So, you spliced into the one device that can shut your bike down and prevent it from running.....
 

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So, you spliced into the one device that can shut your bike down and prevent it from running.....
Common 5 V power supply from ECU to all sensors, not just the TOS.

If it is supposed to be a bi-directional QS then it must be a bi-directional strain gauge that sends a low or high signal from 2.5 v to the Can-Bus for the ECU to read..... Where did the other wire go??
 
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Common 5 V power supply from ECU to all sensors, not just the TOS.

If it is supposed to be a bi-directional QS then it must be a bi-directional strain gauge that sends a low or high signal from 2.5 v to the Can-Bus for the ECU to read..... Where did the other wire go??
Agreed, Ed; but, after doing this mod, the bike does not start or run. The old mechanics credo applies. Whatever modification you just performed has caused the problem you are experiencing.

I would strongly suggest checking that wiring mod ensuring you didn't permanently activate the tip-over sensor as the ECU sees it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
make no mistake friends it does fire up but does this weird WUB WUB WUB 2 step turbo car launch control type thing even in neutral from like 2500-3300rpm ish and in gear it won't let the bike run without bucking extremely hard, basically hard to even keep from crashing constantly. unless I turn off the QS in ecustudio completely and turn it off on the dash it will run and drive. Other than the fact even when the bike had the oem QS ONLY when I did the 100mile break in ride it made all the power it should have but it would NOT let me self rev match for downshifts, it would cut the motor off completely like disallow the manual rev blip from me and obviously this was really bad when riding hard into a corner and only being able to gently let the clutch out thru multiple gears above 9k rpm to keep the rear wheel from skidding!

I was told from two different sources the the tip over switch was the 5v lead to splice. perhaps if someone with a 14 f3 could tell me their exact conversion to qs+blipper methodology I would be very appricitive of your exact method assuming it works which im sure it does.
 
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