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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

I have following issue.
I have around 5500km on my F3.

Suddenly the orange rpm limiter lighted up and "Malfunction" showed up at the display.
So I stopped - and "fault exhaust valve" came up.
When I stopped the engine and turn on again everything was fine.
Powerloss was feelable - and after 2-5km the malfunction came up again.

I stopped again - und looked at the exhaust valve while i was reving up. It does not realy open. Just a bit!

I heard about that this is some kind of problem that I can fix by myself?
But could not find anything about how to do this.

Please help me Agusta lovers :)

Mace!
 

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It's probably the cables on the exhaust valve that have stretched. Let the bike cool down and then adjust the cable to take up a bit of the slack. Don't be tempted to tighten it up fully. Make sure the valve is moving freely too. Also give the whole mechanism a grease.

When you go for service, tell the dealer as really you should reset the position using the computer. I had the same thing (except I was only 2k from home), went home did this and never had another issue. My dealer checked it all over at service and reset the position a month ago.
 

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If your bike is under warranty take it to the dealer.
I had the same problem with my 2013 F4 and had a part changed under the gas tank...sorry don t gave the name/reference.
I think is a well known issue :(
 

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Not sure what part you had changed, but the exhaust valve is behind the belly pan, accessible from the LH side of the bike.

Exhaust valves sticking is not an exclusive MV issue, neither is cable stretch. I have had 3 bikes and 2 of them have had valve issues. Early GSX-R's a re particularly prone to it due to the location of the valves.

He can see the valve moving, why go back to the dealer to have the part replaced if it can be fixed by a couple of 10mm spanners?

If it's stuck solid or you are near a dealer and you are in warranty, by all means head back over, but it's a fairly easy fix if you don't fancy the hassle. If you are in warranty, give your dealer a ring and check, I did and as I said in my first post, just let them know you altered the cables come service time.

If it's stuck solid it is dealer time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so I phoned with my dealer.
He told me that they had this problem in the past a couple of times.
Obviously MV does not send new parts at the moment, I will have to wait until november. (I live in Austria maybe its different in outer countries)

They have to order a new servo he said - but in the meantime I just should unhook the cables and everything is fine he said.

Mace
 

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So what has exactly happened? Have you actually looked at the issue or are you just going on the internet and a dash message? I had this and solved it in around 10 minutes. If you're just going in blind expecting a quick fix, with no one actually looking at the issue then you are not really going to make much progress.

Here are the potential issues:

1. The valve has stuck solid, check this by trying to move the valve with your hand. - go to a dealer.

2. The servo is moving but the valve is not opening fully, you can see the cables moving, but the valve is not opening - check the valve is not stuck, if it opens freely the cables need re-tensioning. Use a couple of spanners and do this.

3. The servo has failed - the cable tension is fine, but the servo is not operating the valve correctly and the valve move freely. Disconnect the cables and set the valve to open. New servo from the dealer. But it's not the end of the world, the bike will sound louder at low revs!:yo:

4. The servo has failed and the valve is jammed (seems unlikely in this case). Umm.. see if you can jam it open.

As I said before, the usual scenario is that the valve jams up. If the servo is on it's way out then you shouldn't have an issue with disconnecting the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm on holidays at the moment and can't wait to see my bike again to check whats wrong.
The issue happened one day before holidays. This weekend i'll be back - will check everything!

Big big thanks for your detailed help! :D

I phoned the dealer because i wanted to know if they had this problem in the past xD
 

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This just happened on my 2014 675 which is still under warranty.

So is it OK to unhook the cables and leave valve open until dealer gets the parts to replace?

Thanks!
 

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Yes
 

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Removed cables and valve sprung open. Before removing cables the valve seemed to stick a little. Sprayed it down with some WD-40 and it cleared up a little bit. To be safe I removed cables and valve sprung open.
Heading to shop tomorrow for another warranty claim.
Exhaust has a little deeper sound to it now.
 

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short answer: yes. Just tell Luca you need the race map for the F3 to get rid of the exhaust valve, then you can disconnect the servo connector (the whole unit!) and get no error on the dash
 

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But I have a module for more power and than I don't want the map on stock ecu. I think that I could have just exhaust valve on off.
 

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Does unplug the cable + healtech servo eliminator is it the same result of unplug the cable + exhaust valve on OFF with ecu modification?
 

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Does unplug the cable + healtech servo eliminator is it the same result of unplug the cable + exhaust valve on OFF with ecu modification?
You can have someone tune your ecu to remove this code, you can add the healtech, or remove the cables and leave the servo motor plugged in to satisfy the ecu so no code.
 

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In this moment, before of ecu modification by ecu studio, I think that the cheapest solution is remove the cables and leave the servo motor plugged.
 
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