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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I'd share a simple fix for the occasional exhaust valve servo malfunction. Basically open up the servo which is located under the left side fairing (2014 F3 800) and spray electrical contact cleaner at the potentiometer. Pics show the location of servo and the potentiometer inside of it. The thing to make sure is that the slot lines back up for the servo arm when putting the halves back together.
 

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Thought I'd share a simple fix for the occasional exhaust valve servo malfunction. Basically open up the servo which is located under the left side fairing (2014 F3 800) and spray electrical contact cleaner at the potentiometer. Pics show the location of servo and the potentiometer inside of it. The thing to make sure is that the slot lines back up for the servo arm when putting the halves back together.
This will fix the malfunction exhaust valve readout on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, if the problem is in the servo which is usually the issue. If the cabling is stuck or valve in exhaust pipe is stuck then no. If the valve can be seen jittering or not moving smoothly then cleaning inside the servo is likely to work. The error will clear by itself once fixed.
 

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Yes, if the problem is in the servo which is usually the issue. If the cabling is stuck or valve in exhaust pipe is stuck then no. If the valve can be seen jittering or not moving smoothly then cleaning inside the servo is likely to work. The error will clear by itself once fixed.
I have this error along with a sprag clutch failure, throttle positioning sensor and rpm sensor. Any advice for these other error codes? Any advice for the cabling being stuck? Any advice for the valve in the exhaust pipe being stuck? Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your rpm sensor code is part of the sprag clutch failure. Once the sprag clutch is fixed the rpm sensor code should go away. Its a false error so to speak. The sensor isn't seeing enough rpm due to sprag slipping.

Throttle position sensor failure I've not had. I think it may be a similar thing in that it needs electrical cleaning but I've seen posts saying that they replaced it. Its basically a drive by wire and the throttle pickup sensor is not sending the correct signal. This failure is less likely because I think it uses two signaling systems at the same time... one increasing with position and the other decreasing. Avoid cleaning bike with aggressive detergent and water. It'll dry out grease and get in places you don't want.

If the cabling is stuck I would take it off the bike and try and do something similar to a clutch cable lubrication. Get some penetrating lubricant in there and work it around... then lubricate. My clutch would stick really bad sometimes so I sprayed brake cleaner in there followed by clutch cable lubricant. They sell a kit that forces the lubricant into the cable space. Its got a small clamping block type of thing that goes on one end.

The exhaust valve itself... Pb blaster.. let sit and work it around while exhaust is cold. PB blaster works much better than WD 40. It gets red hot when running so not really something you can lubricate.

I have this error along with a sprag clutch failure, throttle positioning sensor and rpm sensor. Any advice for these other error codes? Any advice for the cabling being stuck? Any advice for the valve in the exhaust pipe being stuck? Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, make sure the cables that control the exhaust valve are adjusted correctly. It is outlined in the workshop manual section for frame... exhaust valve transmissions and adjustment.

You don't want the servo to be operating with improper adjustment. If it is not adjusted correctly it will be continuously be trying to reach an angle it can't achieve. That puts strain and heat on the electric motor inside.

This part is tricky since basically no one has the software to set the endpoints but you can make it mechanically correct.
 

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Also, make sure the cables that control the exhaust valve are adjusted correctly. It is outlined in the workshop manual section for frame... exhaust valve transmissions and adjustment.

You don't want the servo to be operating with improper adjustment. If it is not adjusted correctly it will be continuously be trying to reach an angle it can't achieve. That puts strain and heat on the electric motor inside.

This part is tricky since basically no one has the software to set the endpoints but you can make it mechanically correct.
Having this issue yet again. I thought I had it figured out but recently experienced loss in power in first gear. Took a look at it yesterday and couldn’t figure it out. Issues with the pics in the service manual versus the pics posted here. There are two marks on the servo casing. In the service manual it looks like the mark they say to line up with before adjustment is left of center of you’re looking at it with the connection pointed straight up. You’re pics look like it’s lines up with the arrow or marking right of center instead. I tried both ways, sprayed inside with the electrical cleaner as well as shot some PB Blaster on the valve. Had plenty of power in first gear but as soon as I kicked it into second it would die. Not sure if I screwed something else up. The bike still shows it’s in neutral even when I kick it down into first. Wondering if I created an issue with the TPS. Once again any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like an issue with the gear position sensor. The bike uses different ECU mapping for different gears. So, if it thinks its in neutral it will not have the same power as if in a gear. Also, 1st gear mapping can be different than 2nd and 3rd and so on.



Did the display show an error for exhaust servo?



Having this issue yet again. I thought I had it figured out but recently experienced loss in power in first gear. Took a look at it yesterday and couldn’t figure it out. Issues with the pics in the service manual versus the pics posted here. There are two marks on the servo casing. In the service manual it looks like the mark they say to line up with before adjustment is left of center of you’re looking at it with the connection pointed straight up. You’re pics look like it’s lines up with the arrow or marking right of center instead. I tried both ways, sprayed inside with the electrical cleaner as well as shot some PB Blaster on the valve. Had plenty of power in first gear but as soon as I kicked it into second it would die. Not sure if I screwed something else up. The bike still shows it’s in neutral even when I kick it down into first. Wondering if I created an issue with the TPS. Once again any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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It seems as though the exhaust flapper valve is working correctly now. The issue is with the side stand. The yellow dash light stays on even when I kick the side stand up. I’m assuming it has something to do with the sensor. I did take the side stand off to get more clearance. I thought I put it back together the same way I took it off but apparently not as that is why the bike dies when I put it in gear. I consulted the manual but no help there. Any suggestions?
Sounds like an issue with the gear position sensor. The bike uses different ECU mapping for different gears. So, if it thinks its in neutral it will not have the same power as if in a gear. Also, 1st gear mapping can be different than 2nd and 3rd and so on.



Did the display show an error for exhaust servo?



Having this issue yet again. I thought I had it figured out but recently experienced loss in power in first gear. Took a look at it yesterday and couldn’t figure it out. Issues with the pics in the service manual versus the pics posted here. There are two marks on the servo casing. In the service manual it looks like the mark they say to line up with before adjustment is left of center of you’re looking at it with the connection pointed straight up. You’re pics look like it’s lines up with the arrow or marking right of center instead. I tried both ways, sprayed inside with the electrical cleaner as well as shot some PB Blaster on the valve. Had plenty of power in first gear but as soon as I kicked it into second it would die. Not sure if I screwed something else up. The bike still shows it’s in neutral even when I kick it down into first. Wondering if I created an issue with the TPS. Once again any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is the side stand plug reconnected? The switch is part of the side stand and may be outside of the stops. A simple investigation should reveal the problem.
 

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Help us help you...what year and model is your bike?
 

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Thanks for this info. I had the exhaust valve servo error over past month. Used this technique and fixed my F3.
 

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Is the side stand plug reconnected? The switch is part of the side stand and may be outside of the stops. A simple investigation should reveal the problem.
I never disconnected the connection. But after reading your suggestions I disconnected it, cleaned it and out a dab of electrical grease in and reconnected. I’m not sure what you mean by stops. I guess I should’ve taken pictures and posted to show what I did. For now I unscrewed the sensor from the side stand and took the sensor off. I then took off the side stand and cleaned everything. I put everything back together and the side stand works as before. I disconnected the sensor for now and after a few rides the exhaust valve malfunction came back. Very frustrating.
 

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Help us help you...what year and model is your bike?
I’ve received this reply from you before. I am using my iPhone and went into settings. There is no options for what bike I have. I exited enhanced mobile view and then went to desk top version to find a bio section I filled out with my bike info. If that still is showing clearly my bike is a 2013 MV Agusta F3 675 EAS.
 

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Thanks for this info. I had the exhaust valve servo error over past month. Used this technique and fixed my F3.
What do you mean by used this technique? As in you followed directions step by step? No other issues? Has it been running fine ever since?
 

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I’ve received this reply from you before. I am using my iPhone and went into settings. There is no options for what bike I have. I exited enhanced mobile view and then went to desk top version to find a bio section I filled out with my bike info. If that still is showing clearly my bike is a 2013 MV Agusta F3 675 EAS.
Now your bike shows clearly in the signature line...thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Healtech sells an exhaust servo eliminator. Just remove the servo and mechanical cables. Plug in the exhaust servo eliminator.

Healtech part ESE-A01
 

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Healtech sells an exhaust servo eliminator. Just remove the servo and mechanical cables. Plug in the exhaust servo eliminator.

Healtech part ESE-A01
Just a word of caution about this: The servo eliminator does not always work. Healtech is aware of this. It appears to be hit-or-miss and there are several threads about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
True, from what I understand the newer MV's will not work with it. But, it does work for 2014 and presumably with a 2013.



Just a word of caution about this: The servo eliminator does not always work. Healtech is aware of this. It appears to be hit-or-miss and there are several threads about it.
 

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True, from what I understand the newer MV's will not work with it. But, it does work for 2014 and presumably with a 2013.


Just installed the healtech emulator on my 2018 Dragster SC. Pulled the motor and wires. On way to mechanic had 3 errors thrown in 25 miles. On ride home, cel cleared, and bike ran like a champ. A little louder at the bottom, but who cares.
But, maybe I’m just lucky.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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